overheating

overheating

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marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Saturday 21st June 2014
quotequote all
Hi guys,
The saga continues....
Fuel pump- checked all the cables and earths seem ok. Went for a five mile run and it didnt blow a fuse.
Thats the good news.
While i was checking it over i noticed the air hose from filter to plenum was cracked so taped it up and the spark plug on number 2 was in the lead incorrectly.
Would either of these cause to much fuel to be pumped through and cause the pump to pull much current and blow a fuse. Doubt it?
Anyway when i got home. Let it sit and idle. The temp gauge never got above about 70, so switched the fan off. It immediately overheated, well a few seconds later. The gauge still showed about 70.
That took about 5 mins ( at least the fuse didnt blow)
Any ideas or suggestions chaps?
Cheers
Marcus

Edited by marcus1875 on Saturday 21st June 17:25

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Saturday 21st June 2014
quotequote all
Hi Marcus..The fuel pump is designed to only pump so much psi so i doubt if anything would cause it to over fuel or pump more than its designed to..If a spark plug was not firing the cylinder then that could cause un burnt fuel/Rich running...Sounds like your temp gauge is faulty or the temperature sender is failing..The V6 cologne does boil a bit when you turn them off and to be fair the original rads just about coped in the Granada let alone in the Wedge!...If fuses are blowing then its more likely to be earth related...Ziga

keatsie

326 posts

163 months

Saturday 21st June 2014
quotequote all
Fuel pump first, if the fuel pump is blowing fuses the pump is either knackered and internally shorting, the pump is not able to pull enough fuel from the tank due to blockage, restriction or vacume or the pump is jamming due to debrie. It is very unusual for a pump to draw enough current to blow a fuse unless internal short. Assuming you haven't changed the pump, I would suggest changing after checking the fuel line from the tank is not blocked.

Please remember fuel and electricity, especially in this heat do not mix well.... So play safe.

Over heating when the engine is switched off, the only time I have experienced to was when my caterham had an air lock and it caused rapid heating and expansion once the pump stopped forcing the water round the engine. But being a TvR I wouldn't rule out a faulty guage and the temperature is actually higher than shown, when you switch off the residual heat causes the boiling over.


marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Saturday 21st June 2014
quotequote all
Thanks guys.
Its a new pump. 20ish miles old. All the earths are good. The only difference i have made is that it used to be a 10amp fuse, that ran fine since i bought it about 4000 miles ago. Its now a 20amp,and seemed ok today.
The temp gauge is a beatch tho. When the gauge hits 90 i used to switch the fan on. Think marks right then, in that the temp sender is knacked.
TVR's if its not one thing it's another, or them all at once.
marcus

chapperssx

753 posts

170 months

Saturday 21st June 2014
quotequote all
marcus1875 said:
TVR's if its not one thing it's another, or them all at once.
marcus
yesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyes

marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
quotequote all
Thermostat's stuck closed frown
So i need a new stat and a new air hose. Could be worse i suppose. Any recomended sources?
Marcus

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
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Hi Marcus...You could try a Gates type thermostat...Ideally you do not want to buy a cheapo!...Also just did a search for a air intake hose but couldn't find one so it might be worth doing what i did on Delilah..


Cant remember the size from memory but i will see if i can find the details...I had to cut the ends and insert some collars...Ziga


keatsie

326 posts

163 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
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Their are so many about, but I would recommend a 3 mm hole in the thermostats plate if it doesn't have one as standard. This helps ensure air locks bleed out and reduce thermal shock..

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
quotequote all
keatsie said:
Their are so many about, but I would recommend a 3 mm hole in the thermostats plate if it doesn't have one as standard. This helps ensure air locks bleed out and reduce thermal shock..
Good idea...Be careful also Marcus when fitting the bolts in..Make sure you save the sealing ring in case the new one doesn't come with it..Use fresh gaskets and some sealant...Should be good to go...Ziga

marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
quotequote all
Hi Mark,
What did you do to make your hose?
There was no sealant ring on the thermostat i took out, nor any gaskets, only a thin bead of instant gasket. Surprised it lasted this long.
Marcus

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Sunday 22nd June 2014
quotequote all
Hi Marcus..If you measure the opening on the throttle body and order a 90 degree elbow with that size as the ID, I think it was 3"..Then a couple of 2.5" long steel joiners with that size OD..Then cut 2" off of each end of the elbow..You will need 6 x Jubilee clips and then copy what i did from the pic...I will have a look in the morning for the sizes but you can measure it anyway...

The thermostat should have a gasket and a sealing ring...They should come with the stat..I might have a spare gasket you can have but not a sealing ring....Hope this helps...Cheers...Ziga

Edited by mrzigazaga on Monday 23 June 10:19

marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Monday 21st July 2014
quotequote all
Time for an update....hopefully a successful weekend. Coolant system stripped, cleaned, polished and cleaned out with Fortes best. The overheating appears to have been caused by a loose belt on the water pump, hence the pump not turning and the water overheating in the heads(i think). The thermostat was goosed, so i got a new one unfortunately i got a 92 degree one instead of an 88. Have left the stat out for the time being.
Took the motor out for a short 5 mile circuit today, all seems fine, except the pipes were effing hot when i got back. Hotter than i remember previously.
The fuel pump seems be working fine, at least it didnt cut out today.
Embarrassingly, i'm on the same tank of fuel that i put in at the BAR run in April! Hopefully make up for it now!
Off course, after sitting for so long and veing fiddled about with, now the elec windows dont work frown
Marcus

keatsie

326 posts

163 months

Monday 21st July 2014
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Don't leave the thermostat out for too long, it has a dual purpose. It controls the temperature of the coolant flow through the radiator but also acts as a restrictor and controls the flow rate. Running without the thermostat allows the water to flow to fast and you end up with pockets of heat generated round the heads.