Back Tracking.....
Discussion
So I know I've infuriated many with my initial scatter gun approach and then sole desire to hand the car to someone to sort rather than do the "decent" thing and DIY - I was in a very bad place tbh....BUT my head is in a bit better place now - certain things have moved or are clearing and it really is time to grasp the TVR nettle (thanks to those who've been chivying away at me in the background!).
I've decided the first thing to do is back track the changes I've made.
So here's the thing - when I bought the car it had major stumbling/fluffing when you tried to step on the loud pedal BUT it did have periods of clarity (usually when hot) where everything was fine and it rev'd and went like stink with no issues.
Currently I have this strange almost rev limiter like thing happening at the top end. Now bearing in mind I have only done less than 100 miles in the car since buying it and have been randomly doing things to sort the initial problem out, I'm thinking something I've done must have brought about this change. So I'm back tracking over whast I've done:
The ONLY things that I think are irreversible/pointless changing are the brand new Magnecor leads and plugs. Oh and resoldering the ECU - not really possible to desolder it but I guess there must be a question mark against it having been resoldered.
The things that I am back tracking on are:
TPS adjustment - I adjusted this when I was having idling problems which I now know were down to gasket failure on offside rocker allowing big air bypass of AFM. The initial TPS setting was 0 volts at idle - yes, 0 volts at idle - it was set hard back againts it's stops clockwise (the 3 lug BIG TPS). At the time I reset to .3 volts as per HonestJohn
Dizzy - I stuck a new ignition amp on the original dizzy but never tried it on a run becasue of the idling problems I was sorting out and in the end bought and fitted a complete new dizzy/amp without actually checking the old/replacement amp combo.
So today I've
1)stuck the old dizzy back in (with the new amp - I still have the old amp if necesary)
2)reset the TPS to 0 volts as it was when purchased - this is technically wrong but I've no idea if the AFM has been recalibrated so who knows. It sounds wrong but I know that it did perform well (for periods) when first bought.
3)Drilled the 1mm hole in the mushroom breather that mysteriously wasn't there - shouldn't make a any difference in the grand scheme of things but it's there for a reason.
4)WD40'd all electrical connections
The battery is charging now so won't find out where we are til tonight/tomorrow but should be interesting!
May need to borrow an ecu to eliminate my resoldering of the original causing top end problems.
Onwards and upwards...
I've decided the first thing to do is back track the changes I've made.
So here's the thing - when I bought the car it had major stumbling/fluffing when you tried to step on the loud pedal BUT it did have periods of clarity (usually when hot) where everything was fine and it rev'd and went like stink with no issues.
Currently I have this strange almost rev limiter like thing happening at the top end. Now bearing in mind I have only done less than 100 miles in the car since buying it and have been randomly doing things to sort the initial problem out, I'm thinking something I've done must have brought about this change. So I'm back tracking over whast I've done:
The ONLY things that I think are irreversible/pointless changing are the brand new Magnecor leads and plugs. Oh and resoldering the ECU - not really possible to desolder it but I guess there must be a question mark against it having been resoldered.
The things that I am back tracking on are:
TPS adjustment - I adjusted this when I was having idling problems which I now know were down to gasket failure on offside rocker allowing big air bypass of AFM. The initial TPS setting was 0 volts at idle - yes, 0 volts at idle - it was set hard back againts it's stops clockwise (the 3 lug BIG TPS). At the time I reset to .3 volts as per HonestJohn
Dizzy - I stuck a new ignition amp on the original dizzy but never tried it on a run becasue of the idling problems I was sorting out and in the end bought and fitted a complete new dizzy/amp without actually checking the old/replacement amp combo.
So today I've
1)stuck the old dizzy back in (with the new amp - I still have the old amp if necesary)
2)reset the TPS to 0 volts as it was when purchased - this is technically wrong but I've no idea if the AFM has been recalibrated so who knows. It sounds wrong but I know that it did perform well (for periods) when first bought.
3)Drilled the 1mm hole in the mushroom breather that mysteriously wasn't there - shouldn't make a any difference in the grand scheme of things but it's there for a reason.
4)WD40'd all electrical connections
The battery is charging now so won't find out where we are til tonight/tomorrow but should be interesting!
May need to borrow an ecu to eliminate my resoldering of the original causing top end problems.
Onwards and upwards...
Edited by smash on Friday 1st August 11:30
The 'rev limit' effect can be caused by the trigger coil in the distributor being on the way out. When mine was dying I had the same symtoms, but as I was in the middle of playing with injection system components I thought it was something I'd done... but pure coincidence. When the trigger coil eventually failed I fitted a second-hand one and the revs went straight back to 6500+
@ V8fettler In the end no - but importantly I now have the bit between my teeth (well, someone's placed it there but I'm thankful!)
So have backtracked, I'll set timing tonight and go forward one stage at a time...
Actually there is another thing - the timing when I got it was only 5 odd degrees at idle so I guess I need to also add to the "to do" list - check Top Dead Centre corelates to 0 degree timing mark.
I have read before Rovers are notorious for TDC mark being out.
@Wedg1e - I'm getting this effect with a brand new Powerspark style distributor - this is why I'm going back to the original dizzy - could be cheap parts syndrome
So have backtracked, I'll set timing tonight and go forward one stage at a time...
Actually there is another thing - the timing when I got it was only 5 odd degrees at idle so I guess I need to also add to the "to do" list - check Top Dead Centre corelates to 0 degree timing mark.
I have read before Rovers are notorious for TDC mark being out.
@Wedg1e - I'm getting this effect with a brand new Powerspark style distributor - this is why I'm going back to the original dizzy - could be cheap parts syndrome
Edited by smash on Friday 1st August 14:11
like that phrase. 
DISASTER!!
Now here's the weird thing again with the ignition switch when the battery was first put back in - on turning on very loud click from somewhere under the bonnet (OHS) then 0 volts on gauge.
Turn off ignition
turn on again - 11 volts for a second then dropped to 0 volts
Turn to crank no clicks no volts
turn off ignition
try again - exactly the same behaviour
try again - 10 volts
Turn to crank some relay "churing" noise from relay block
Turn off
try again - 10 Volts
Turn to crank - engine flicks over for brief moment
turn off
try again - 12 volts
turn to crank - engine turns over and starts after 3/4 seconds turning
Run to warm up - set up timing to 8 degrees and idle at 900rpm for a good 10 mins then made fatal mistake of "just nipping round the block"
It was hinting at the rev limit thing from early revs but then seemed OK and was pulling nicely until it just cut out without warning (much like the MOT trip before) I managed to bump it down the hill but it wanted to die and I had to keep the revs up to 3k and slipping clutch to keep it moving as it was trying to cut out then just died completely and wouldn't start. Not even a hint of firing.
Unceremonious push home helped by someone who said "Shame - it sounded awesome when you went past!". Second time the cars come home like this.
Think we have electrical gremlins (no s
t!) - need an auto-electrician I think. I suspect it's connected to the whole rev limitery thing. Maybe fuel pump is having feed cut through the electrical shenanigans.
Now here's the weird thing again with the ignition switch when the battery was first put back in - on turning on very loud click from somewhere under the bonnet (OHS) then 0 volts on gauge.
Turn off ignition
turn on again - 11 volts for a second then dropped to 0 volts
Turn to crank no clicks no volts
turn off ignition
try again - exactly the same behaviour
try again - 10 volts
Turn to crank some relay "churing" noise from relay block
Turn off
try again - 10 Volts
Turn to crank - engine flicks over for brief moment
turn off
try again - 12 volts
turn to crank - engine turns over and starts after 3/4 seconds turning
Run to warm up - set up timing to 8 degrees and idle at 900rpm for a good 10 mins then made fatal mistake of "just nipping round the block"
It was hinting at the rev limit thing from early revs but then seemed OK and was pulling nicely until it just cut out without warning (much like the MOT trip before) I managed to bump it down the hill but it wanted to die and I had to keep the revs up to 3k and slipping clutch to keep it moving as it was trying to cut out then just died completely and wouldn't start. Not even a hint of firing.
Unceremonious push home helped by someone who said "Shame - it sounded awesome when you went past!". Second time the cars come home like this.
Think we have electrical gremlins (no s
t!) - need an auto-electrician I think. I suspect it's connected to the whole rev limitery thing. Maybe fuel pump is having feed cut through the electrical shenanigans.
She does look a nice beast mate...When Delilah used to break down people use to walk passed and say.."Nice car mate"...I used to feel like saying.."ps off" but settled for.."Yeah...When its working"....
Did you changed the starter or is it the same one thats still on it?...I know its stabbing in the dark mate but I'm hoping its something simple...Ignition switch?....If you are good with a multimeter then be symptomatic and check as much as you can..Got my fingers crossed for you mate....Ziga
s off" but settled for.."Yeah...When its working"....Did you changed the starter or is it the same one thats still on it?...I know its stabbing in the dark mate but I'm hoping its something simple...Ignition switch?....If you are good with a multimeter then be symptomatic and check as much as you can..Got my fingers crossed for you mate....Ziga
Hi mate...I bought one from Grimmer bros a short time ago...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
Not cheap but always good to have...Even as a spare!...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
Not cheap but always good to have...Even as a spare!...Ziga
smash said:
OK so battery back in - cranking well, smell petrol, not firing at all
First 4k takes it, lol!
What you want is a nice, fully sorted Chimaera...First 4k takes it, lol!
Edited by smash on Friday 1st August 20:29
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