Notchy in 2nd/4th
Discussion
My 400 seems to have devolved a little something with the gearbox.
Up until a few days ago, it was perfect. Last run out (and the same today), the box is fine when cold and as it warms up, 2nd becomes a bit notchy when selecting (going down, going up is fine). Then when the car is right up to temp, 4th gear joins the party, and is notchy when going up and down into 4th. When you are actually in the gears, all is well, and all the other gears are good too.
The car's done 92k and the clutch was replaced about 4,000 miles ago (by a previous owner).
Please tell me is it something easy and not a major problem
Up until a few days ago, it was perfect. Last run out (and the same today), the box is fine when cold and as it warms up, 2nd becomes a bit notchy when selecting (going down, going up is fine). Then when the car is right up to temp, 4th gear joins the party, and is notchy when going up and down into 4th. When you are actually in the gears, all is well, and all the other gears are good too.
The car's done 92k and the clutch was replaced about 4,000 miles ago (by a previous owner).
Please tell me is it something easy and not a major problem
JumboBeef said:
how do I change the oil....?
There are two basic ways to change the oil in the gearbox.1/ You take it to a competent garage and ask them to change the gearbox oil. This way can be a bit expensive, but is easy and very effective.
2/ You change it yourself. This way is cheaper, but is a bit difficult, especially on a Wedge. You will need a good Jack, axle stands, some correct size spanners, pot to catch the old oil and some fresh gearbox oil.
Jack the car up. Secure car with axle stands. Undo the gearbox drain plug and filler plug on side of gearbox. Drain oil. Put drain plug back. Fill until it overflows from side of gearbox. Keep a couple of litres of fresh oil handy as it will be close to two litres. Put filler plug back. Use the most expensive oil for best performance, probably Mobil 1. Job done.
Have you checked the hydraulic oil in the clutch master cylinder?
Tony. TCB.
It can be done by jacking up just one side but the car would have to be on a flat when filling the oils for correct levels, though I would recomend a four or two post lift for ease as things are pretty tight on Wedges. There are places where four post lifts can be hired by the hour for personal use.
Hopefuly the oil change will cure the problem, but if not, and the car was purchesed from a trader recently, then, they too could be liable for some or all of the repair costs.
Tony. TCB.
Hopefuly the oil change will cure the problem, but if not, and the car was purchesed from a trader recently, then, they too could be liable for some or all of the repair costs.
Tony. TCB.
As Originator and major proponent of the Mobil 1 and Molyslip process, I advise anyone to thoroughly clean out the horrible sludge that is left inside the gearbox AFTER draining the existing oil.
No point in adding fresh oil only to have it immediately contaminated by resident left-overs.
Black oil sludge is a virtual solid commonly caused by infrequent oil changes, running on low oil level and low operating temperatures, testimony to poor maintenance and short journeys and under these conditions, racks up with use.
Thus, it will surely contaminate any fresh oil and will likely ruin expectations brought about by just adding the Mobil 1/Molyslip combo. This is my solution.
Radical LT77 Gearbox Cleaning Process.
• With the car on axle stands and the back wheels off the ground drain the gearbox and re-fill with a flushing mixture of 2:1 white spirit and ATF.
• With the engine running at idle speed only, put the car through all the gears and let the drive train run off-load for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Upon draining the flushing mixture be amazed at the filthy colour and state of the drained fluid. Black as ebony with lots of sediment!
• Repeat the above with a clean batch of mixture to flush out the residues.
• Imagine the washing machine action inside the box allowing the solvent component to reach into every recess.
• Refill with "0W40 "Mobil 1 ("5W40 Castrol RS" is virtually the same. Use either with no discernible difference).
• Add a recommended dose of Molyslip Gearbox Treatment, available in a tube/applicator, Halfords, Ebay, etc.
• Transformation is usually remarkable making the gearbox a pleasure to use.
• Top up annually and replace Oil and Molyslip every four years (Unlikely, but clean any accumulated sludge as described).
• NOT for LSD - Use leftover Molyslip treatment in the rear axle differential.
• Thoroughly warm the differential with (say) an electric fan heater, suck out all the old lubricant with a large medical syringe and flexible plastic tube. Refill with fresh hypoid oil (as specified) and the mentioned Molyslip treatment.
• The rear axle differential will be similarly transformed but with less treatment intervals required.
• Taking both treatments into account, the whole drive train should become silky smooth.
Refilling a Manual Gearbox
• When topping up or refilling a manual box, the oft recommended method using squeezy bottles and flexible pipes has the disadvantage of proving Newton's 2nd Law of gravity that states: "It's easier to oil an armpit than to fill a gearbox from below!"
• Neat method to refill or top up the gearbox, run a large bore plastic hose from the filler hole, up past the bell-housing and into the rear of the engine bay.
• Fit and secure a suitable funnel on top and pour in the replacement oil without difficulty.
• Do it slowly to prevent overflow.
Providing the LT77 gearbox is not actually damaged, or simply worn out, the above process is well worth a try before removing the box for repair/replacement.
So! Would it be the Fully Synthetic Castrol RS 5W40/Mobil 1 0W40 Lubricant or the Molyslip Gearbox Treatment that does the trick? Or will it be the combination of the two?
Personally I think it's the combination but every gearbox will be in a different state/condition, so predicting complete success is fraught with uncertainty.
However, there are many feedback testimonies from fellow LT77 users who took the courage to try my solution and came back smiling! You could be smiling too!!!!
The above is adapted from my web pages - www.vintagemodelairplane.com - For me, a very unfriendly Rover SD1 LT77 gearbox was completely transformed in 1996 and with regular oil changes as recommended, remains in very good condition, 18 years later. Likewise the rear axle differential. NOT for LSD.
No point in adding fresh oil only to have it immediately contaminated by resident left-overs.
Black oil sludge is a virtual solid commonly caused by infrequent oil changes, running on low oil level and low operating temperatures, testimony to poor maintenance and short journeys and under these conditions, racks up with use.
Thus, it will surely contaminate any fresh oil and will likely ruin expectations brought about by just adding the Mobil 1/Molyslip combo. This is my solution.
Radical LT77 Gearbox Cleaning Process.
• With the car on axle stands and the back wheels off the ground drain the gearbox and re-fill with a flushing mixture of 2:1 white spirit and ATF.
• With the engine running at idle speed only, put the car through all the gears and let the drive train run off-load for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Upon draining the flushing mixture be amazed at the filthy colour and state of the drained fluid. Black as ebony with lots of sediment!
• Repeat the above with a clean batch of mixture to flush out the residues.
• Imagine the washing machine action inside the box allowing the solvent component to reach into every recess.
• Refill with "0W40 "Mobil 1 ("5W40 Castrol RS" is virtually the same. Use either with no discernible difference).
• Add a recommended dose of Molyslip Gearbox Treatment, available in a tube/applicator, Halfords, Ebay, etc.
• Transformation is usually remarkable making the gearbox a pleasure to use.
• Top up annually and replace Oil and Molyslip every four years (Unlikely, but clean any accumulated sludge as described).
• NOT for LSD - Use leftover Molyslip treatment in the rear axle differential.
• Thoroughly warm the differential with (say) an electric fan heater, suck out all the old lubricant with a large medical syringe and flexible plastic tube. Refill with fresh hypoid oil (as specified) and the mentioned Molyslip treatment.
• The rear axle differential will be similarly transformed but with less treatment intervals required.
• Taking both treatments into account, the whole drive train should become silky smooth.
Refilling a Manual Gearbox
• When topping up or refilling a manual box, the oft recommended method using squeezy bottles and flexible pipes has the disadvantage of proving Newton's 2nd Law of gravity that states: "It's easier to oil an armpit than to fill a gearbox from below!"
• Neat method to refill or top up the gearbox, run a large bore plastic hose from the filler hole, up past the bell-housing and into the rear of the engine bay.
• Fit and secure a suitable funnel on top and pour in the replacement oil without difficulty.
• Do it slowly to prevent overflow.
Providing the LT77 gearbox is not actually damaged, or simply worn out, the above process is well worth a try before removing the box for repair/replacement.
So! Would it be the Fully Synthetic Castrol RS 5W40/Mobil 1 0W40 Lubricant or the Molyslip Gearbox Treatment that does the trick? Or will it be the combination of the two?
Personally I think it's the combination but every gearbox will be in a different state/condition, so predicting complete success is fraught with uncertainty.
However, there are many feedback testimonies from fellow LT77 users who took the courage to try my solution and came back smiling! You could be smiling too!!!!
The above is adapted from my web pages - www.vintagemodelairplane.com - For me, a very unfriendly Rover SD1 LT77 gearbox was completely transformed in 1996 and with regular oil changes as recommended, remains in very good condition, 18 years later. Likewise the rear axle differential. NOT for LSD.
Edited by honestjohntoo on Wednesday 13th August 03:05
Also,too add something helpful, I changed mine (can't remember what but I did what Richard Thorpe reccomended). Its always been a good box and now feels better.
I also found the LSD oil was quite tired after 88000 miles so I changed that...I used to get a slight "rumble" when lifting off at lots of leptons but now doesn't do it....although its hard for me to confirm that was the problem as I did all these jobs through the rebuild!
The box and diff oil are a piece of cake to do,just a little fiddly... And you need a big spanner for the box oil! Check it before you start to avoid disappointment.
I also found the LSD oil was quite tired after 88000 miles so I changed that...I used to get a slight "rumble" when lifting off at lots of leptons but now doesn't do it....although its hard for me to confirm that was the problem as I did all these jobs through the rebuild!
The box and diff oil are a piece of cake to do,just a little fiddly... And you need a big spanner for the box oil! Check it before you start to avoid disappointment.
honestjohntoo said:
As Originator and major proponent of the Mobil 1 and Molyslip process, I advise anyone to thoroughly clean out the horrible sludge that is left inside the gearbox AFTER draining the existing oil.
No point in adding fresh oil only to have it immediately contaminated by resident left-overs.
Black oil sludge is a virtual solid commonly caused by infrequent oil changes, running on low oil level and low operating temperatures, testimony to poor maintenance and short journeys and under these conditions, racks up with use.
Thus, it will surely contaminate any fresh oil and will likely ruin expectations brought about by just adding the Mobil 1/Molyslip combo. This is my solution.
Radical LT77 Gearbox Cleaning Process.
• With the car on axle stands and the back wheels off the ground drain the gearbox and re-fill with a flushing mixture of 2:1 white spirit and ATF.
• With the engine running at idle speed only, put the car through all the gears and let the drive train run off-load for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Upon draining the flushing mixture be amazed at the filthy colour and state of the drained fluid. Black as ebony with lots of sediment!
• Repeat the above with a clean batch of mixture to flush out the residues.
• Imagine the washing machine action inside the box allowing the solvent component to reach into every recess.
• Refill with "0W40 "Mobil 1 ("5W40 Castrol RS" is virtually the same. Use either with no discernible difference).
• Add a recommended dose of Molyslip Gearbox Treatment, available in a tube/applicator, Halfords, Ebay, etc.
• Transformation is usually remarkable making the gearbox a pleasure to use.
• Top up annually and replace Oil and Molyslip every four years (Unlikely, but clean any accumulated sludge as described).
• NOT for LSD - Use leftover Molyslip treatment in the rear axle differential.
• Thoroughly warm the differential with (say) an electric fan heater, suck out all the old lubricant with a large medical syringe and flexible plastic tube. Refill with fresh hypoid oil (as specified) and the mentioned Molyslip treatment.
• The rear axle differential will be similarly transformed but with less treatment intervals required.
• Taking both treatments into account, the whole drive train should become silky smooth.
Refilling a Manual Gearbox
• When topping up or refilling a manual box, the oft recommended method using squeezy bottles and flexible pipes has the disadvantage of proving Newton's 2nd Law of gravity that states: "It's easier to oil an armpit than to fill a gearbox from below!"
• Neat method to refill or top up the gearbox, run a large bore plastic hose from the filler hole, up past the bell-housing and into the rear of the engine bay.
• Fit and secure a suitable funnel on top and pour in the replacement oil without difficulty.
• Do it slowly to prevent overflow.
Providing the LT77 gearbox is not actually damaged, or simply worn out, the above process is well worth a try before removing the box for repair/replacement.
So! Would it be the Fully Synthetic Castrol RS 5W40/Mobil 1 0W40 Lubricant or the Molyslip Gearbox Treatment that does the trick? Or will it be the combination of the two?
Personally I think it's the combination but every gearbox will be in a different state/condition, so predicting complete success is fraught with uncertainty.
However, there are many feedback testimonies from fellow LT77 users who took the courage to try my solution and came back smiling! You could be smiling too!!!!
The above is adapted from my web pages - www.vintagemodelairplane.com - For me, a very unfriendly Rover SD1 LT77 gearbox was completely transformed in 1996 and with regular oil changes as recommended, remains in very good condition, 18 years later. Likewise the rear axle differential. NOT for LSD.
Every interesting, thanks, but how does this differ for an LSD?No point in adding fresh oil only to have it immediately contaminated by resident left-overs.
Black oil sludge is a virtual solid commonly caused by infrequent oil changes, running on low oil level and low operating temperatures, testimony to poor maintenance and short journeys and under these conditions, racks up with use.
Thus, it will surely contaminate any fresh oil and will likely ruin expectations brought about by just adding the Mobil 1/Molyslip combo. This is my solution.
Radical LT77 Gearbox Cleaning Process.
• With the car on axle stands and the back wheels off the ground drain the gearbox and re-fill with a flushing mixture of 2:1 white spirit and ATF.
• With the engine running at idle speed only, put the car through all the gears and let the drive train run off-load for 5 to 10 minutes.
• Upon draining the flushing mixture be amazed at the filthy colour and state of the drained fluid. Black as ebony with lots of sediment!
• Repeat the above with a clean batch of mixture to flush out the residues.
• Imagine the washing machine action inside the box allowing the solvent component to reach into every recess.
• Refill with "0W40 "Mobil 1 ("5W40 Castrol RS" is virtually the same. Use either with no discernible difference).
• Add a recommended dose of Molyslip Gearbox Treatment, available in a tube/applicator, Halfords, Ebay, etc.
• Transformation is usually remarkable making the gearbox a pleasure to use.
• Top up annually and replace Oil and Molyslip every four years (Unlikely, but clean any accumulated sludge as described).
• NOT for LSD - Use leftover Molyslip treatment in the rear axle differential.
• Thoroughly warm the differential with (say) an electric fan heater, suck out all the old lubricant with a large medical syringe and flexible plastic tube. Refill with fresh hypoid oil (as specified) and the mentioned Molyslip treatment.
• The rear axle differential will be similarly transformed but with less treatment intervals required.
• Taking both treatments into account, the whole drive train should become silky smooth.
Refilling a Manual Gearbox
• When topping up or refilling a manual box, the oft recommended method using squeezy bottles and flexible pipes has the disadvantage of proving Newton's 2nd Law of gravity that states: "It's easier to oil an armpit than to fill a gearbox from below!"
• Neat method to refill or top up the gearbox, run a large bore plastic hose from the filler hole, up past the bell-housing and into the rear of the engine bay.
• Fit and secure a suitable funnel on top and pour in the replacement oil without difficulty.
• Do it slowly to prevent overflow.
Providing the LT77 gearbox is not actually damaged, or simply worn out, the above process is well worth a try before removing the box for repair/replacement.
So! Would it be the Fully Synthetic Castrol RS 5W40/Mobil 1 0W40 Lubricant or the Molyslip Gearbox Treatment that does the trick? Or will it be the combination of the two?
Personally I think it's the combination but every gearbox will be in a different state/condition, so predicting complete success is fraught with uncertainty.
However, there are many feedback testimonies from fellow LT77 users who took the courage to try my solution and came back smiling! You could be smiling too!!!!
The above is adapted from my web pages - www.vintagemodelairplane.com - For me, a very unfriendly Rover SD1 LT77 gearbox was completely transformed in 1996 and with regular oil changes as recommended, remains in very good condition, 18 years later. Likewise the rear axle differential. NOT for LSD.
Edited by honestjohntoo on Wednesday 13th August 03:05
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff