Removing Bonnet

Removing Bonnet

Author
Discussion

stevoj

Original Poster:

798 posts

161 months

Thursday 28th August 2014
quotequote all
I am taking the bonnet off to send away for some remedial paint work, while it is off is there anything i should consider checking or changing that is much easier to access?

Also think i will put some new bonnet stays on as one seems to be pretty weak and one seems quite strong, in fact so strong you would think it would pull the ball joints out of their fixing!
Does anyone know the correct spec for these as in weighting or loading? the length would seem to be 200mm stroke and approx 470mm full length without ball end. I have seen some nice st/st items, not cheap but will look great if the right spec.

Cheers
Steve

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

261 months

Thursday 28th August 2014
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On the bonnet struts, sgs engineering do them at a good price.
Have 4 of those as the boot wouldn't stay open either and all are the same spec.

Rob

mrzigazaga

18,555 posts

165 months

Thursday 28th August 2014
quotequote all
Hi mate...I believe the original ones were from a Ford Capri tailgate, Thats why they had the little terminal on them that TVR used for earthing the radio from...I think...But on the Capri they were used for the heated rear screen.

SGS are good and can supply the right ones but you need to emphasis the correct ones...I bought some off of them and i think they sent me boot struts instead of bonnet as they were too short and the bonnet only opened enough to just about get one arm in...But they were ok for the boot..IOf you have the originals on there still then they should have some information written on them...i:e LBS/Pressure...Ziga

Wedg1e

26,801 posts

265 months

Thursday 28th August 2014
quotequote all
100 Newtons was the original rating. Rumour used to have it that the rams were from the early Range Rover which had a sheet glass tailgate (like the Tasmin FHC) - I'd expect the Capri tailgate to need more than 200N to shift it.
Later Rangeys, however, used 220N rams so whether they ever did use 100N ones I'm not sure.

superwedge

1,286 posts

148 months

Friday 29th August 2014
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had weak one, so took it from the boot, change over,lovely now all the same.

MrPicky

1,233 posts

267 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
Check the hose from the bottom of the swan neck to the top of the rad, the front edge of the bonnet often scrapes a weakness into this over time.

stevoj

Original Poster:

798 posts

161 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies guys, the ones presently on are different so not sure which would be the correct and doesn't seem much info on them anyway.

From info given and reading an older post on the subject, looks like I need to be a little carful not to get too strong a strut and risk damaging the fiberglass, maybe getting the known supplier ones is easiest but I like the look of the st/st items, anyway the ones I am thinking of are adjustable between 100n and 600n so might just be a matter of adjusting them correctly.

stevoj

Original Poster:

798 posts

161 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
MrPicky said:
Check the hose from the bottom of the swan neck to the top of the rad, the front edge of the bonnet often scrapes a weakness into this over time.
Thanks, yes already got hoses on the list, anything else?


Geoff38

789 posts

246 months

Friday 29th August 2014
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I think SGS do the stainless steel ones too , might have to call them to ask for them rather than order online ?

gmw9666

2,735 posts

200 months

Friday 29th August 2014
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Randomly one of my bonnet ones would not hold the one side up

I turned it upside down and works fine, weird hey, will replace at some point but for now it'll do lol

stevoj

Original Poster:

798 posts

161 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
gmw9666 said:
Randomly one of my bonnet ones would not hold the one side up

I turned it upside down and works fine, weird hey, will replace at some point but for now it'll do lol
How was it fitted in the first place Glen? I believe these things need to be fitted with the rod coming out of the cylinder to the bottom downwards, if that makes sense! and not with the rod upwards.

Wedg1e

26,801 posts

265 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
stevoj said:
Thanks for the replies guys, the ones presently on are different so not sure which would be the correct and doesn't seem much info on them anyway.

From info given and reading an older post on the subject, looks like I need to be a little carful not to get too strong a strut and risk damaging the fiberglass, maybe getting the known supplier ones is easiest but I like the look of the st/st items, anyway the ones I am thinking of are adjustable between 100n and 600n so might just be a matter of adjusting them correctly.
Adjustable ones usually come pre-charged to the max. rating; you bleed off pressure via a small screw to get down to the required setting - but there's no way of directly knowing where you're at nor is there any provision to pump them back up!

gmw9666

2,735 posts

200 months

Friday 29th August 2014
quotequote all
stevoj said:
How was it fitted in the first place Glen? I believe these things need to be fitted with the rod coming out of the cylinder to the bottom downwards, if that makes sense! and not with the rod upwards.
Yup that's how it was, turned it the other way and all fine, well is for now

Will change though with some ones soon

BoltonTVR

262 posts

264 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2014
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stevoj said:
Thanks for the replies guys, the ones presently on are different so not sure which would be the correct and doesn't seem much info on them anyway.

From info given and reading an older post on the subject, looks like I need to be a little carful not to get too strong a strut and risk damaging the fiberglass, maybe getting the known supplier ones is easiest but I like the look of the st/st items, anyway the ones I am thinking of are adjustable between 100n and 600n so might just be a matter of adjusting them correctly.
I bought these last year, SGS struts, for the bonnet and boot. Piece of piss to fit and work great. Wish I'd bought them a couple of years ago as I now have a big spider on the bonnet where the bonnet fell onto the oil cap which I'd stupidly placed on the plenum. Where are you having your bonnet sprayed?

mrzigazaga

18,555 posts

165 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2014
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I have ordered a brand new pair of rangey ones from flea for £12 free postage...I will report back once i have fitted them...SGS are No.1 for struts....Ziga

mrzigazaga

18,555 posts

165 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2014
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
100 Newtons was the original rating. Rumour used to have it that the rams were from the early Range Rover which had a sheet glass tailgate (like the Tasmin FHC) - I'd expect the Capri tailgate to need more than 200N to shift it.
Later Rangeys, however, used 220N rams so whether they ever did use 100N ones I'm not sure.
The ones i have bought are for a P38 and are 300N...Im hoping its not too much....I'll report back when i have faffed about fitting them....Ziga

stevoj

Original Poster:

798 posts

161 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2014
quotequote all
BoltonTVR said:
I bought these last year, SGS struts, for the bonnet and boot. Piece of piss to fit and work great. Wish I'd bought them a couple of years ago as I now have a big spider on the bonnet where the bonnet fell onto the oil cap which I'd stupidly placed on the plenum. Where are you having your bonnet sprayed?
That sounds strange, I had the front end of the car re sprayed when I bought it and it was done by SVR, its a guy that Track V Road use themselves. One of the main reasons for having it done, other than stone chips was a spider crack in the bonnet coming from where someone had left something under the bonnet, wonder if it was the oil filler capsmile
Anyway its going back to the same guy who has kindly agreed that the bonnet needs doing again as the star crack repair is showing slightly, taken the opportunity to get the wing mirrors done also.

stevoj

Original Poster:

798 posts

161 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2014
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
The ones i have bought are for a P38 and are 300N...Im hoping its not too much....I'll report back when i have faffed about fitting them....Ziga
I'll be waiting.

Buy the way Mark, did you ever find out where the dash top vents originate from?

mrzigazaga

18,555 posts

165 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2014
quotequote all
stevoj said:
I'll be waiting.

Buy the way Mark, did you ever find out where the dash top vents originate from?
Hi mate...Unfortunately the struts are way too small in length, Plus being 300N when the ones on there are only 100N seemes a bit of a waste of time...Still only 12 sobs so no drama...They will be good boot struts if anyone needs any...smile

Those vents drove me mad...I looked at every possibility but came up empty handed..I'd love a small plastic injection moulding machine...

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

242 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2014
quotequote all
300N is far too much and will rip the captive nuts out of the fibreglass. Usually the boot ones are less than the bonnet ones (and old bonnet ones can be reused on the boot).

The reason the OP's got one stiffy and one semi-stiff, is that is the bodge when you buy ones that are too strong, you only put one on and it's enough to keep the bonnet up.