Alternator adjuster - anyone tried these?
Discussion
OK well I made the first one:
... and stuck it on there...
It's not offset at the bottom yet, but even so it clears the pipe just about.
I need to find some longer Imperial UNC bolts to add to the kit because the rose joint is much wider, and there are only a few turns of bolt holding it in for now.
Still, it will get a road test.
I must say, this makes adjusting the fan belt tension sooooo much easier, a few turns of the rod, nip up the locknut, and job done. The adjuster should give about 2" of adjustment but you only really need 1/2".
If you are interested in one, get a tape measure and measure the distance between the bottom bolt on the tensioning bracket, the one that goes into the block, and the top bolt at the alternator, and let me know (mine was 10" - 250mm) and do it with the belt under temsion.
The kit will include a rod as above but with a thinner locknut, a longer bottom bolt, a bottom spacer and small washers to allow the rose joints full pivoting action.
... and stuck it on there...
It's not offset at the bottom yet, but even so it clears the pipe just about.
I need to find some longer Imperial UNC bolts to add to the kit because the rose joint is much wider, and there are only a few turns of bolt holding it in for now.
Still, it will get a road test.
I must say, this makes adjusting the fan belt tension sooooo much easier, a few turns of the rod, nip up the locknut, and job done. The adjuster should give about 2" of adjustment but you only really need 1/2".
If you are interested in one, get a tape measure and measure the distance between the bottom bolt on the tensioning bracket, the one that goes into the block, and the top bolt at the alternator, and let me know (mine was 10" - 250mm) and do it with the belt under temsion.
The kit will include a rod as above but with a thinner locknut, a longer bottom bolt, a bottom spacer and small washers to allow the rose joints full pivoting action.
Edited by adam quantrill on Saturday 20th September 18:08
Well courtesy of an SDi engine I have sitting about I extracted a longer bolt and re-mounted it with a 9mm spacer in between. So there's a bit more clearance between the rod and the pipe, and a decent amount of thread into the block.
To answer Zig's question - it's a No. You have to unscrew the top bolt out a bit and slip off the upper joint to drop the alternator down enough to take off (or put on) the belt.
However this only takes a minute so it's no biggy.
To answer Zig's question - it's a No. You have to unscrew the top bolt out a bit and slip off the upper joint to drop the alternator down enough to take off (or put on) the belt.
However this only takes a minute so it's no biggy.
adam quantrill said:
Well courtesy of an SDi engine I have sitting about I extracted a longer bolt and re-mounted it with a 9mm spacer in between. So there's a bit more clearance between the rod and the pipe, and a decent amount of thread into the block.
To answer Zig's question - it's a No. You have to unscrew the top bolt out a bit and slip off the upper joint to drop the alternator down enough to take off (or put on) the belt.
However this only takes a minute so it's no biggy.
Sounds like its a winner then...It might have come along at the right time as my alternator belt has started to squeal...Again...It was new 4-6 months ago so probably needs adjusting slightly, This option sounds like its going to make it a whole lot easier...To answer Zig's question - it's a No. You have to unscrew the top bolt out a bit and slip off the upper joint to drop the alternator down enough to take off (or put on) the belt.
However this only takes a minute so it's no biggy.
Ill have a measure up tomorrow...Cheers...Ziga
Yeah I'll buy you a pint for every 100 sold! ;^) Actually the tapping does take a while by hand.. I'll have to get a little production line going....
Well I went for a short drive today up to the rugby club and back and it worked fine, so I expect there will be no problems over the next couple of days. I'll start knocking up the next batch.
... Also done to/from work run with no issues.. parts ordering under way.
Well I went for a short drive today up to the rugby club and back and it worked fine, so I expect there will be no problems over the next couple of days. I'll start knocking up the next batch.
... Also done to/from work run with no issues.. parts ordering under way.
Edited by adam quantrill on Monday 22 September 19:06
Road testing done with no issues - I have all the bits coming for more of them in the next day or two so I need to start cutting the bars.
Just a reminder for those interested - please measure up the distance between top and bottom bolts on the adjuster arm in case it's radically different, and let me know. Then I can cut the aly bar to suit.
Just a reminder for those interested - please measure up the distance between top and bottom bolts on the adjuster arm in case it's radically different, and let me know. Then I can cut the aly bar to suit.
OK so I've drilled up three bars, with 10"/250mm as the guideline. I'll tap them next, the rose joints are at the local post office to be picked up tomorrow morning, I've just got the 1.5" x 5/8" UNC bolts and just need to make some spacers with a spare bit of hex bar - should be able to have the kits ready for dispatch as soon as the M8 locknuts arrive.
Yes all the existing bars have a bend in them to avoid that pipe, so the bottom bolt is replaced by the longer one in the kit, and there's a spacer to give a bit more clearance.
Yes all the existing bars have a bend in them to avoid that pipe, so the bottom bolt is replaced by the longer one in the kit, and there's a spacer to give a bit more clearance.
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