Broken down..... :(
Discussion
Car started misbehaving itself on the motorway. Would loose power whenever I changed the throttle position.
Then there would be an almost two second delay between changing the throttle positiona and the car accelerating
It "fixed" itself and I made my way over the bridge, Long downhill section to my town it completely conked out when at the roundabout (at rush hour). Luckily I flagged down a police car and they helped me off the roundabout.
Car refused to restart.
Car restarted when the aa man got there (just my luck). Held the car at 2k revs and let off the throttle, it just died again and wouldn't restart.
It was fine to drive onto the recovery truck (waited 2 hours for one low enough) and drive back off. Asked my trusted mechanic to have a look at it (aa refused to take it to the nearest specialist). He ran it several times without problem. Until he gave it one last try to see if the problem would resurface and sure enough he broke down 4 miles from the garage just before closing time
Any ideas? it's a 1990 tvr 350i
Still has a spark (didn't check all of them)
Fuel pump seems to whirr away
All eight injectors have a pulse
I sprayed some "easy start" into the intake, car still wouldn't start?
Then I got bored and called the AA. It's kinna odd when you're on first name terms with a recovery driver! :laugh
Then there would be an almost two second delay between changing the throttle positiona and the car accelerating
It "fixed" itself and I made my way over the bridge, Long downhill section to my town it completely conked out when at the roundabout (at rush hour). Luckily I flagged down a police car and they helped me off the roundabout.
Car refused to restart.
Car restarted when the aa man got there (just my luck). Held the car at 2k revs and let off the throttle, it just died again and wouldn't restart.
It was fine to drive onto the recovery truck (waited 2 hours for one low enough) and drive back off. Asked my trusted mechanic to have a look at it (aa refused to take it to the nearest specialist). He ran it several times without problem. Until he gave it one last try to see if the problem would resurface and sure enough he broke down 4 miles from the garage just before closing time
Any ideas? it's a 1990 tvr 350i
Still has a spark (didn't check all of them)
Fuel pump seems to whirr away
All eight injectors have a pulse
I sprayed some "easy start" into the intake, car still wouldn't start?
Then I got bored and called the AA. It's kinna odd when you're on first name terms with a recovery driver! :laugh
Edited by MethylatedSpirit on Tuesday 16th September 20:57
Edited by MethylatedSpirit on Tuesday 16th September 20:58
Hi mate...I had a similar issue, It felt like the timing was badly out when you pressed the accelerator, Wanted to die but picked up when you took your foot off..The idle was okay but it wouldn't rev...It never refused to start though...The ECU plug had wiggled loose a fraction...I now have two cable ties holding the plug on and it seems to of sorted it...Try some electrical lube/Cleaner on all the connectors...AFM...Ballast resistor...ECU...Ignition amp plug....TPS...(Be gentle with this one as the wires coming out of the TPS are sometimes brittle)..Has it ever done this before?....Cheers...Ziga
I've done 7,000 miles since I bought it in march without any trouble from the car. It's a daily driver.
It did develop an erratic idle from cold. I just ignored it because it was 15 seconds max and then would settle down.
I can't spend much time as I'm away 7 days a week with university and work. I've just given it to my local mechanic to look at.
It did develop an erratic idle from cold. I just ignored it because it was 15 seconds max and then would settle down.
I can't spend much time as I'm away 7 days a week with university and work. I've just given it to my local mechanic to look at.
When it dies is there definitely fuel coming through? Pop a plug out to see if it smells of fuel. As Adam says, it could well be throttle pot if there seems to be a lag on the throttle pedal. Check the wires coming off it - they can become brittle and fracture. Mine's hanging by a thread!
You don't say if its a flapper or hotwire. It could be the choke mechanism playing up. Just a guess and a long shot but try disconnecting it and see if it helps. I've had similar problems with a hotwire and had to clean out the stepper motor to cure. This is why on some cars like my present one has the choke mechanism permenantly disconnected.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
Probably the CTS connections, but why?
You car is likely over-fuelling, hence it floods, dies and then restarts AFTER a short waiting period allowing the flooded cylinders to evaporate the excess fuel away.
It will start and run ok, for a while, as the CSI is hardly active on a hot inlet manifold,
As mentioned, the engine will run normally without good acceleration when a faulty throttle pot is disconnected, so if that wont work one has to move on to a probable faulty connection to the coolant temp sensor.
Check both connections according to the recommended process which includes the wiring to and from.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
If one cant be bothered, a quick check to the engine earth connection at the studs below and behind the LH rocker cover will reveal that the CTS is also grounded there.
Pernicious corrosion of that earth connection can account for your description of the way the fault developed and then failed.
For what its worth, scatter gun replacement of components will be tough on the wallet before a simple fault is discovered.
Testing, however almost always uncovers the culprit via this low cost 15 point health check.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Snippets...
YKIMS.
You car is likely over-fuelling, hence it floods, dies and then restarts AFTER a short waiting period allowing the flooded cylinders to evaporate the excess fuel away.
It will start and run ok, for a while, as the CSI is hardly active on a hot inlet manifold,
As mentioned, the engine will run normally without good acceleration when a faulty throttle pot is disconnected, so if that wont work one has to move on to a probable faulty connection to the coolant temp sensor.
Check both connections according to the recommended process which includes the wiring to and from.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
If one cant be bothered, a quick check to the engine earth connection at the studs below and behind the LH rocker cover will reveal that the CTS is also grounded there.
Pernicious corrosion of that earth connection can account for your description of the way the fault developed and then failed.
For what its worth, scatter gun replacement of components will be tough on the wallet before a simple fault is discovered.
Testing, however almost always uncovers the culprit via this low cost 15 point health check.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Snippets...
YKIMS.
honestjohntoo said:
You car is likely over-fuelling
HmmmmmmmIt's always smelt a bit rich and people have commented on it. I put it down to the absence of cats since I've not really owned a car without em!
I think it's a flapper efi? Not sure how to tell the difference. I know my chim had a hotwire system... I've not had a proper look at it, I just check the coolant and oil once a week!
Edited by MethylatedSpirit on Wednesday 17th September 23:11
MethylatedSpirit said:
It's always smelt a bit rich and people have commented on it.
I think it's a flapper efi? Not sure how to tell the difference.
Because the ignition gives sparks when it wont start, it sounds (or should I say smells) like your problem has been developing for some while until the CTS connections finally croaked due to corrosion or poor connection somewhere.I think it's a flapper efi? Not sure how to tell the difference.
If your engine is a flapper it might look something like this SD1 engine bay.
Well at least the airflow meter - which gives the system is nickname, because it has an internal flap. What does your AFM look like?
MethylatedSpirit said:
I just check the coolant and oil once a week!
I'm thinking that you may be on the cusp of an Efi voyage of discovery!Enjoy!
Had what looked like your situation: coolant temperature sensor not ok in my case (as mentioned before).
When the engine cooled down I could drive it for max 200metres... before it would die under all circumstances.
What helped to get me going was to take the connector of this sensor and short it (better to put a resistor, but none to hand it will work with a paperclip). ECU get signal: engine is hot and doesn't over-fuel, which stops the engine from running. Drove a couple of weeks like that (not my daily driver I must add) until I got a replacement part.
It is the sensor closest to the plenum (there are two sensors close to each other).
Rob
When the engine cooled down I could drive it for max 200metres... before it would die under all circumstances.
What helped to get me going was to take the connector of this sensor and short it (better to put a resistor, but none to hand it will work with a paperclip). ECU get signal: engine is hot and doesn't over-fuel, which stops the engine from running. Drove a couple of weeks like that (not my daily driver I must add) until I got a replacement part.
It is the sensor closest to the plenum (there are two sensors close to each other).
Rob
It seems to drive from cool, then completely die when it heats up, not restarting.
Does anyone have a part number for the temperature sender? And know anywhere round Glasgow that might stock one?
It seems to drive from cool, then completely die when it heats up, not restarting.
Does anyone have a part number for the temperature sender? And know anywhere round Glasgow that might stock one?
Does anyone have a part number for the temperature sender? And know anywhere round Glasgow that might stock one?
honestjohntoo said:
If your engine is a flapper it might look something like this SD1 engine bay.
Pretty sure it's a flapper nowIt seems to drive from cool, then completely die when it heats up, not restarting.
Does anyone have a part number for the temperature sender? And know anywhere round Glasgow that might stock one?
Edited by MethylatedSpirit on Thursday 18th September 22:47
MethylatedSpirit said:
It seems to drive from cool, then completely die when it heats up, not restarting.
Does anyone have a part number for the temperature sender? And know anywhere round Glasgow that might stock one?
Any Landrover dealer should keep them, about 12 quid last time I got one.Does anyone have a part number for the temperature sender? And know anywhere round Glasgow that might stock one?
Not sure if its just the price thats different?....
1. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-LAND-ROVER-D...
2. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-P...
I like the description of the first one...
1. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-LAND-ROVER-D...
2. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-P...
I like the description of the first one...
Scatter gun replacement of service items of unknown age, quality, mileage and condition can provide a good basis for fault finding and reduce risk of going round in circles. "Are all service items in date and mileage?".
Ign amp replacement and "disconnect TPS" should be at the start of the flow chart!
Ign amp replacement and "disconnect TPS" should be at the start of the flow chart!
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