Rear Caliper removal

Rear Caliper removal

Author
Discussion

PV7998

371 posts

134 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all
This is what mine looked like prior to removal.........the offside /drivers side/right hand had the least access - in fact I couldn't even see the upper caliper bolt.
And this is what it looked like after about 3 hours of swearing at it...............

For what it's worth.....the caliper wouldn't come out through the nearside because of the exhaust so they both had to come out of the offside.

One of the little retaining screws that hold in the handbrake pads has broken.....any ideas where I could get a new one?

Edited by PV7998 on Monday 20th October 19:27

Number 7

4,102 posts

262 months

Tuesday 21st October 2014
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My memory is not what it used to be , but don't new pads come with new securing bolts? Extra expense I know, but if they do, you could buy a new set of pads?

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

242 months

Tuesday 21st October 2014
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Maybe, maybe not. You could make a retaining bolt by grinding down an M5 or similar bolt head to that "slipper" shape.

PV7998

371 posts

134 months

Tuesday 21st October 2014
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Nice idea.......looks like that's Saturday's job then.

The pads have all got plenty of life left in them so grinding down an M5 will be a cheaper option

Wedg1e

26,798 posts

265 months

Tuesday 21st October 2014
quotequote all
Number 7 said:
My memory is not what it used to be , but don't new pads come with new securing bolts?
The bloody expensive Ferodo set I just bought did, but the generic aftermarket Cheapanese ones I've had before didn't.

GV

2,366 posts

224 months

Wednesday 22nd October 2014
quotequote all
A chopped out boot is the way to go - it is easy to refit and bond back the chopped section once you're done with the repair.

mrzigazaga

18,552 posts

165 months

Wednesday 22nd October 2014
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GV said:
A chopped out boot is the way to go - it is easy to refit and bond back the chopped section once you're done with the repair.
Or maybe hinged plate of stainless..For future access?....

PV7998

371 posts

134 months

Wednesday 22nd October 2014
quotequote all
I've thought about the reassembly bit.......after all I had plenty of time while I was removing the calipers. I think I'll try to resist the temptation to cut the boot floor, but there's a limit to the amount of torture I can stand.

Thanks to all for the advice.

Jon280

Original Poster:

195 posts

137 months

Friday 24th October 2014
quotequote all
Success! A longer spanner, a bigger hammer, tons of penetrating oil and some swearing finally moved the last couple of bolts.



Think this is the cause of my problems earlier this year that have led to taking this all apart



The pad on that side is also more worn.

Had to remove them still connected by the link pipe as the bolts into the calipers are no longer a bolt shape, rather a nice oval kind of shape.

Now to investigate getting them reconditioned or replaced!

mrzigazaga

18,552 posts

165 months

Friday 24th October 2014
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Hi Jon...Well done mate..You could try Ward engineering who specialise in Jag...

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...

Or maybe someone like Bigg Red

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...

Cheers...Ziga

Wedg1e

26,798 posts

265 months

Friday 24th October 2014
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Good luck with getting the bleed nipple out...

Jon280

Original Poster:

195 posts

137 months

Friday 24th October 2014
quotequote all
The bleed nipples are fine, and actually look like they have been replaced at some point previously, its the longer pipe between the two sets of callipers that will be the tricky one, but just planning on chopping the pipe and bashing on a socket, and replacing with new pipe and fixings.

Looking at everything, it appears that the pads/discs have not done many miles, as they are not worn very much at all. Will have to give the discs a good clean and will be putting new pads in anyway when I get round to putting it all back together.

Cheers for the links Mark, have seen those two places mentioned before, need to do some ringing round to get some prices, which hopefully wont be too scary...

TA14

12,722 posts

258 months

Friday 24th October 2014
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Jon280 said:
Success! A longer spanner, a bigger hammer, tons of penetrating oil and some swearing finally moved the last couple of bolts.
Well done. Even at this stage it may be worth dropping the full rear 'axle' assembly.

TA14

12,722 posts

258 months

Friday 24th October 2014
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SEvans said:
Yep, drop the diff....it's not as bad a job as you think and then you can work on things much easier.

That's a nice example of an early diff beam.

Wedg1e

26,798 posts

265 months

Friday 24th October 2014
quotequote all
Jon280 said:
The bleed nipples are fine, and actually look like they have been replaced at some point previously, its the longer pipe between the two sets of callipers that will be the tricky one, but just planning on chopping the pipe and bashing on a socket, and replacing with new pipe and fixings.
I'm 90+% certain that the original link pipe is steel rather than copper/ cunifer.

BoltonTVR

262 posts

264 months

Friday 24th October 2014
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Jon280 said:
but just planning on chopping the pipe and bashing on a socket, and replacing with new pipe and fixings.
That's exactly what I ended up doing. The brass nut just shredded with a spanner and then mole grips, so a small socket was persuaded to fit. I got a new pipe with fittings made up for a fiver.