Rear Caliper removal
Discussion
Currently getting a bit annoyed with the wedge trying to remove the rear brake calipers, looks like the seals are knackered on them, and one if them is seizing so want to get them refurbished/replaced.
Have managed to remove the o/s one with minor loss of skin from knuckles, a healthy dose of swearing and a face full of rust/dirt, and now struggling with the n/s one. The two bolts are refusing to move, despite plenty of WD40 etc, they look like they have been had a go at before, and show some sign of being slightly rounded on a couple of the faces, and the lack of access is not helping.
Any top tips for getting the silly thing off?
Have managed to remove the o/s one with minor loss of skin from knuckles, a healthy dose of swearing and a face full of rust/dirt, and now struggling with the n/s one. The two bolts are refusing to move, despite plenty of WD40 etc, they look like they have been had a go at before, and show some sign of being slightly rounded on a couple of the faces, and the lack of access is not helping.
Any top tips for getting the silly thing off?
Heat always helps but because of the very tight confines around the diff area an oxy acetylene torch is a bit risky . If you have a welder you can either :-
Weld something to the existing bolts to give more leverage or a better grip
Or (I've used this method more than once to great effect)
just put a great big spot of weld on the top of the bolts and hope that the heat from the weld releases the bolt enough to allow you to undo it - try to do it as soon as you finish the weld before the bolt has time to cool
Either way make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy - just in case and you disconnect the battery
Good luck
Oh and don't burn yourself.
Weld something to the existing bolts to give more leverage or a better grip
Or (I've used this method more than once to great effect)
just put a great big spot of weld on the top of the bolts and hope that the heat from the weld releases the bolt enough to allow you to undo it - try to do it as soon as you finish the weld before the bolt has time to cool
Either way make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy - just in case and you disconnect the battery
Good luck
Oh and don't burn yourself.
Wedg1e said:
...says Rocket who's clearly never tried to get at his rear calipers 
It's hard enough to get an open-ended spanner in there, never mind a MIG torch.
Unfortunately there is no easy way; I'd go so far as to say you need to take a deep breath and drop the diff out to work on.
Actually have swapped out a set on my old 280 - it was obviously such a traumatic experience by brain has now wiped all knowledge of how tight it was It's hard enough to get an open-ended spanner in there, never mind a MIG torch.
Unfortunately there is no easy way; I'd go so far as to say you need to take a deep breath and drop the diff out to work on.
Cheers for the replies.
The one I got off so far was tedious, could get about 1/6turn then have to reposition the spanner, but at least those bolts moved.
Have ordered an extra long spanner, and plan on spraying the bolts with penetrating oil as much as possible over the next week then have another bash at it. If that does not work then may have to resort to dropping the diff, though no doubt that will present other challenges!
The one I got off so far was tedious, could get about 1/6turn then have to reposition the spanner, but at least those bolts moved.
Have ordered an extra long spanner, and plan on spraying the bolts with penetrating oil as much as possible over the next week then have another bash at it. If that does not work then may have to resort to dropping the diff, though no doubt that will present other challenges!
Yep, drop the diff....it's not as bad a job as you think and then you can work on things much easier. If the bolt is already rounded off then you will struggle to sort this out whilst it's on the car. Once it's off the car you can bash on a slightly smaller imperial socket or spanner which should hopefully do the trick. Cheers Steve
PV7998 said:
I plan on getting my rears off in a week or two so please keep us updated.......everything I've heard or read says it's not a nice job.
It's a lot less grief than when they hung inside the pressed-steel axle beam of the XJ6! All you had to work through were a couple of elliptical holes that looked as though they'd been modelled on a Sindy doll's flange... 
Hands like Rolf Harris are still required on the Wedge but you do have some options - you can remove the rear exhaust section to improve access, for example.
As the OP says, the tedious bit is getting a spanner onto the caliper mounting bolts: once you've actually achieved that you find you can only get a sixteenth of a turn on them. Continents have drifted faster than it takes to get the lefthand upper one out!
If you use the ring end of a combi spanner, all goes well for about the first three full turns, then you find that the bolt head is so close to the diff casting that you either can't get your spanner on, or you can't get it off
PV7998 said:
Left hand upper................is that offside driver's side) in old money?
I'm looking forward to it even more now
No, it is on the Left Hand side and higher up than the Left Hand Lower - pretty much as was stated.I'm looking forward to it even more now
In "old money" that is the nearside upper on a right hand drive car. It is called nearside because that is the side that is near the to side/kerb/edge of the road when facing in the correct direction. The other side of the car is called the Off Side and is the side that the driver sits on.
I have a pencil blowtorch that you fill up from a butane lighter refill canister, and it gives about 10 minutes of very intense flame. You need the type with the catalyst. they only cost about a tenner.
Run it on full and point it at one bolt head until you use up the butane charge. That should put enough heat into the bolt it will ping off. If not - while it is still hot squirt a jet of water onto it to quench it, and try again with the spanner at the same time if possible.
Run it on full and point it at one bolt head until you use up the butane charge. That should put enough heat into the bolt it will ping off. If not - while it is still hot squirt a jet of water onto it to quench it, and try again with the spanner at the same time if possible.
mrzigazaga said:
Hi mate...Although it seems like a good idea DONT cut a hole in the boot...Someone should be able to help you out as I'm sure its something thats been done before...
..(Chris)....Cheers..Ziga
Why not?..(Chris)....Cheers..ZigaMy 400 has a hatch in the boot cut by a previous owner, who said it great eased the pain of working on the rear brakes.
Get some Deblock oil on it..That stuff actually works!..Heat is also a massive help but only if you can get to it...Cheers..Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
J400GED said:
PV7998 said:
Left hand upper................is that offside driver's side) in old money?
No, it is on the Left Hand side and higher up than the Left Hand Lower - pretty much as was stated.In "old money" that is the nearside upper on a right hand drive car. It is called nearside because that is the side that is near the to side/kerb/edge of the road when facing in the correct direction. The other side of the car is called the Off Side and is the side that the driver sits on.
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