Door Hinge nylon bushes
Discussion
Hi, not been on for a bit. Sorry about that!
OK, I can't compete with 12p each(!), but still happy to do this if people want?
I would like to get a check on that ID though - it HAS to be a decent fit or the doors will still wobble - object defeated! Also, don't forget to check the pins themselves for wear. Its not unheard of for a soft material to wear a harder material out - bits of the harder material do wear off and embed themselves into the softer material, which then acts like sandpaper and wears away the harder material unusually fast. Counterintuitive. Rocker shafts on the Rover engine are an example of that.
I can make new pins too if needed.
Also, I'd probably use Delrin (acetal) rather than nylon as it is slightly better mechanically and is nice and inert to things like grease.
Let me know if it's still of interest and I'll work up a price.
Ed.
OK, I can't compete with 12p each(!), but still happy to do this if people want?
I would like to get a check on that ID though - it HAS to be a decent fit or the doors will still wobble - object defeated! Also, don't forget to check the pins themselves for wear. Its not unheard of for a soft material to wear a harder material out - bits of the harder material do wear off and embed themselves into the softer material, which then acts like sandpaper and wears away the harder material unusually fast. Counterintuitive. Rocker shafts on the Rover engine are an example of that.
I can make new pins too if needed.
Also, I'd probably use Delrin (acetal) rather than nylon as it is slightly better mechanically and is nice and inert to things like grease.
Let me know if it's still of interest and I'll work up a price.
Ed.
ed_crouch said:
Hi, not been on for a bit. Sorry about that!
OK, I can't compete with 12p each(!), but still happy to do this if people want?
I would like to get a check on that ID though - it HAS to be a decent fit or the doors will still wobble - object defeated! Also, don't forget to check the pins themselves for wear. Its not unheard of for a soft material to wear a harder material out - bits of the harder material do wear off and embed themselves into the softer material, which then acts like sandpaper and wears away the harder material unusually fast. Counterintuitive. Rocker shafts on the Rover engine are an example of that.
I can make new pins too if needed.
Also, I'd probably use Delrin (acetal) rather than nylon as it is slightly better mechanically and is nice and inert to things like grease.
Let me know if it's still of interest and I'll work up a price.
Ed.
They would be nice in Phosphor bronze but If you are struggling to keep the price below 12p you may struggle OK, I can't compete with 12p each(!), but still happy to do this if people want?
I would like to get a check on that ID though - it HAS to be a decent fit or the doors will still wobble - object defeated! Also, don't forget to check the pins themselves for wear. Its not unheard of for a soft material to wear a harder material out - bits of the harder material do wear off and embed themselves into the softer material, which then acts like sandpaper and wears away the harder material unusually fast. Counterintuitive. Rocker shafts on the Rover engine are an example of that.
I can make new pins too if needed.
Also, I'd probably use Delrin (acetal) rather than nylon as it is slightly better mechanically and is nice and inert to things like grease.
Let me know if it's still of interest and I'll work up a price.
Ed.
Some similar top hats I made recently in shiny material.
Nylon bar is not as cheap as it was.
N.
Does anyone in need of door bushes live anywhere near Basingstoke or Reading? I'd like to accurately measure the pin diameter (+/-0.05mm) say halfway down (away from the two wear areas) and the ID of the tube the bushing sits in.
I can do the bushes for £5 each. Yep, significantly more than 12p(!), but I'll do them as 1-offs and they'll be made of Delrin which has better lubricant compatibility than nylon.
If the door pins need replacing, let me know and I'll do replacements in Stainless.
I can do the bushes for £5 each. Yep, significantly more than 12p(!), but I'll do them as 1-offs and they'll be made of Delrin which has better lubricant compatibility than nylon.
If the door pins need replacing, let me know and I'll do replacements in Stainless.
Good call Ed, acetal is also much nicer to machine than nylon and turns to a better finish IMHO.
As an aside, I need to make a brass bush for a job at work last week: 28mm OD, 1.3mm wall and 25mm long, set into a black acetal block.
The 28mm OD was a bit of a bu99er as I had lots of 25mm/ 1" but nothing bigger... until I found a scrap Lotus Esprit trunnion(!) in my box of brass bits.
Effectively it's two cylinders at right-angles to each other (cast as one lump, obviously), so I band-sawed them apart, stuck a big bolt through the middle of the 'threaded' cylinder and chucked it in the lathe.
Turned the OD down, took the bolt out; chucked, faced and bored the ID, took it out and checked the length then chucked it and turned to length. Even added a slight lead-in taper so it wouldn't damage the acetal on entry. The trunnion 'half' was so close to the right size that the brass turnings wouldn't have filled a shot glass
Simple, and proves you should never throw old car parts away
As an aside, I need to make a brass bush for a job at work last week: 28mm OD, 1.3mm wall and 25mm long, set into a black acetal block.
The 28mm OD was a bit of a bu99er as I had lots of 25mm/ 1" but nothing bigger... until I found a scrap Lotus Esprit trunnion(!) in my box of brass bits.
Effectively it's two cylinders at right-angles to each other (cast as one lump, obviously), so I band-sawed them apart, stuck a big bolt through the middle of the 'threaded' cylinder and chucked it in the lathe.
Turned the OD down, took the bolt out; chucked, faced and bored the ID, took it out and checked the length then chucked it and turned to length. Even added a slight lead-in taper so it wouldn't damage the acetal on entry. The trunnion 'half' was so close to the right size that the brass turnings wouldn't have filled a shot glass
Simple, and proves you should never throw old car parts away
Righto, I've been machining this weekend and the first batch are nearly there.
Could I please ask a favour? Could someone with a doorless wedge (and a good vernier caliper or a micrometer) please mic up the long hinge pin for diameter? Preferably halfway along the 1/2"(ish) diameter, and preferably +/- 0.01mm?
I'll be cutting the bores in the next day or so and want to make sure they're right.
Thank you in advance.
Ed.
Could I please ask a favour? Could someone with a doorless wedge (and a good vernier caliper or a micrometer) please mic up the long hinge pin for diameter? Preferably halfway along the 1/2"(ish) diameter, and preferably +/- 0.01mm?
I'll be cutting the bores in the next day or so and want to make sure they're right.
Thank you in advance.
Ed.
Ed
Ive got a pair of hinges/door bars with allegedly NEW bushes in them that are not currently fitted to doors if you want them to have a measure up?
Ive also got the doors from my FHC and doors from a 390se off and here to check if they are different sizes too!!
In fact, it looks like Ill be online looking for a new digital vernier this afternoon!!
Stu
Ive got a pair of hinges/door bars with allegedly NEW bushes in them that are not currently fitted to doors if you want them to have a measure up?
Ive also got the doors from my FHC and doors from a 390se off and here to check if they are different sizes too!!
In fact, it looks like Ill be online looking for a new digital vernier this afternoon!!
Stu
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