V6 water pump gasket
Discussion
Cheers Andy, a full flush is planned for the weekend (weather permitting). I'll try to get some better pics tomorrow. From what i can see and feel the surfaces seem fine, but they are manky and a good clean is in order, and repaint if i dont get a new one.
The pump itself works fine i think. It is stiff though, manually turning it, it stops immediately. Whereas i think it ought to turn more freely.
Marcus
The pump itself works fine i think. It is stiff though, manually turning it, it stops immediately. Whereas i think it ought to turn more freely.
Marcus
marcus1875 said:
Well guys, i left the new parts on the engine overnight to let sealant set. Filled with coolant and water today and it still leaks!
Its not from the seal or new gasket but from a hole under the pulley fitting, its not a bolt hole , any ideas?
Cheers
Marcus
phillpot said:
Definitely the gasket and not the seal on the pulley shaft ?
Don't know about the 2.8 but a lot of water pumps have a little hole in the casing so that if the seal does start to leak a bit the water can run out rather than wash the grease out of the bearing.
Don't know about the 2.8 but a lot of water pumps have a little hole in the casing so that if the seal does start to leak a bit the water can run out rather than wash the grease out of the bearing.
mrzigazaga said:
if the pump is knackered then its worth replacing...Its no fun doing the same job twice but sometimes you have to and the second time its perfect!...
Hi Marcus...I did say it would be better to replace the pump..At least twice....Its a right PITA doing it again..I know i have been there..Luckily my water pump was replaced when i had the first engine swap although i had fun and games with the aftermarket stats being crap!.. I had to do the same job 4 times due to leaks and overheating and then eventually the lug broke off of the rear stat housing and i had to do it all over again...But it was finally done and all good...When you said it was stiff to turn when you took it off i did think that it sounded like the bearing had failed...Don't stress too much though as you will get it sorted...ZigaYep, pump is good only for the bin..... leaks from that hole means the main seal has failed (the one which protects the bearing). It's a bugger, but that's the way of things.
Trouble is new pumps are slightly stiff to turn too - it's difficult to tell.
And just because I'm a stickler for detail...
13mm head = 8mm thread
10mm head = 6mm thread
From pictures, I can confirm that that is the standard 'early' 2.3/2.8 pump, in case the shop asks....
Trouble is new pumps are slightly stiff to turn too - it's difficult to tell.
And just because I'm a stickler for detail...
13mm head = 8mm thread
10mm head = 6mm thread
From pictures, I can confirm that that is the standard 'early' 2.3/2.8 pump, in case the shop asks....
Edited by RCK974X on Sunday 25th January 18:47
marcus1875 said:
I wasnt sure what Mark meant by T6 or T8.
Bolts are generally referred to by their diameter not their spanner size, the "M" designates metric thread. If ordering new bolts the length quoted will be from under the head, just the length of the thread and shank.Bolt has a shank
Set Screw is threaded up to the head.............. HTH
Oh No - DON'T get into a discussion about threads !! There's far too many.
Most of Cologne V6 threads are standard metric threads, and it's the THREAD size which determines the bolt, not its head size. But beware, there are special thread types lurking to catch you out.....seat belt being one of the more obvious ones...
The rear end is Jag, so is full of imperial (UNF) threads......
Anyway, just be aware !
Most of Cologne V6 threads are standard metric threads, and it's the THREAD size which determines the bolt, not its head size. But beware, there are special thread types lurking to catch you out.....seat belt being one of the more obvious ones...
The rear end is Jag, so is full of imperial (UNF) threads......
Anyway, just be aware !
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