350i oil change method.

350i oil change method.

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Discussion

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,560 posts

166 months

Monday 26th January 2015
quotequote all
Okay...To fill or not to fill that is the question...scratchchin

Blimey Matt that is scary I'm glad i have ordered a magnetic sump plug...

At the moment i have a Unipart GFE295 on there but can't find another now, I guess thats it for them...So have ordered a Fram PH2821A, It looks very similar to the Unipart one as i remember a post about the two different types...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-FRAM-Oil-Filter-PH28...

ElvisWedgely

2,714 posts

166 months

Monday 26th January 2015
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Number 7 said:
In 25 years of owning Wedges I've never filled the filter before fitting. Once the oil is changed and new filter is on, my method is usually to disconnect the coil and disable the fueling (one of the relays) and crank the engine until the oil light goes out. Then reconnect everything and start as normal. Worth trying to get one of the circular allen headed magnetic sump plugs as well (although I've never heard of a Wedge losing one of the hex headed versions by contact with the road, unlike some other models.
yes

Tony. TCB.

Convert

3,747 posts

219 months

Monday 26th January 2015
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Zig, I always use the PH2821a

What oil are you using?

KKson

3,405 posts

126 months

Monday 26th January 2015
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ElvisWedgely said:
Number 7 said:
In 25 years of owning Wedges I've never filled the filter before fitting. Once the oil is changed and new filter is on, my method is usually to disconnect the coil and disable the fueling (one of the relays) and crank the engine until the oil light goes out. Then reconnect everything and start as normal. Worth trying to get one of the circular allen headed magnetic sump plugs as well (although I've never heard of a Wedge losing one of the hex headed versions by contact with the road, unlike some other models.
yes
Mark, likewise I don't fill the filter but crank the engine for 10 seconds until the oil light goes off. I've used the GFE295 previously but couldn't find a new one so bought a new Fram filter, as per link. I blew down the middle of it to check it did have a non return valve, which it has.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360795641298?_trksid=p20...

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,560 posts

166 months

Monday 26th January 2015
quotequote all
Convert said:
Zig, I always use the PH2821a

What oil are you using?
Hi mate...I will probably use the Howlfrauds Classic 20w50..Its a formulated oil for older engines, It has high viscosity and can be used all year round...Didn't know that its essentially "Duckhams"...If i had a spicy engine or larger capacity i would probably use Valvoline VR1..But the multi-grade classic oil is good for my ole girl....smile

And its good to change it every 2-3000 miles...

I think as the decision to fill the filter is around half of the posts then i will only half fill the filter...Simples..I should imagine that if I'm quick enough then i won't have to fill the filter but i guess if i don't and i woulda, Coulda, Shoulda then i might as well....Even if most of it ends up on the floor...hehe

Number 7

4,103 posts

263 months

Monday 26th January 2015
quotequote all
Mark, not that it gets that cold in Sarf London, but as you use the Wedge all year round, I'd be tempted to go for something with a lower "W" rating: maybe 15W 50 (the grade I use) or even 10W 50.

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,560 posts

166 months

Monday 26th January 2015
quotequote all
Thanks Paul...I will have a ponder...smile

matt-man

2,665 posts

220 months

Monday 26th January 2015
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I used to use 15w40,in fact did until last year when I decided to change.

I now use this
http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/p/car-acces...

I change every 2k ish\12 months

superwedge

1,286 posts

149 months

Monday 26th January 2015
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a good 20/50 zig,these engines gag for it,lickunipart one has it has a non/return inside it to stop the oil going back down the pipes when you turn off engine

Wedg1e

26,805 posts

266 months

Monday 26th January 2015
quotequote all
Number 7 said:
Mark, not that it gets that cold in Sarf London, but as you use the Wedge all year round, I'd be tempted to go for something with a lower "W" rating: maybe 15W 50 (the grade I use) or even 10W 50.
Hear hear, I use 20W/50 but if I drove in the winter I'd be looking for 15W/50. The air temp might be cold but the internals of the engine will still get to normal working temperature and need the lubrication of the 50 weight. I've never used 10W/40 in my engine, I rebuilt it in 2001 and some of the crank wear/ marks could have been down to previous owners using watery oil so I don't take the risk.

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

243 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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I think Halfrauds classic is the same make as Comma classic 20W/50, in which case it has reasonable amounts of Zinc too.

I also think you can get the Comma one off the flea cheaper than at Halfrauds ;^)

celcius

688 posts

256 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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Hi guys
Go to www.classic-oils.net
This is where i get mine .they sell 20w 50 synthetic oils with zinc,
Happy days l

Greg

rev-erend

21,421 posts

285 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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I used Valvoline VR1 - the American V8 boys love it.

Currently using Millers CRO and will switch to Silkoline expensive stuff after a few miles.

ElvisWedgely

2,714 posts

166 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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Engine oils are like slimming products. Only the one you believe in actually works biggrin

Tony. TCB.

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,560 posts

166 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
quotequote all
Thanks for that link Greg...VR1 and Millers are nearly £20 cheaper than what i was looking at on the Veb...Infact the Millers is only £1 dearer than the classic motor oil from Howlfrauds.....Silkolene sounds like a hard conditioner...MMmmm...Now I'm really spoilt for choice and totally confused....Cheers...Ziga

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

243 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
Silkolene sounds like a hard conditioner...MMmmm
Zig if your "hard" needs conditioning then maybe you need grease, not oil, mate!

rev-erend

21,421 posts

285 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
quotequote all
Don't use the Millers CRO as it is a running in oil..so that is one off your list.

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

243 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
quotequote all
Reply from Millers regarding their CLASSIC HIGH PERFORMANCE 20w50 NT : "Thank you for your enquiry and we do not give out the exact figure of ZDDP in our products as that is part of our formulation but what I can tell you is that it is over 1000ppm."

This would appear to be adequate (if a bit vague), but whether it's better value than adding your own for a fiver a gallon, I do not know.

Aeroflop

144 posts

160 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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-I've been running Valvoline VR1 - 20W50 for summer use only, 10W60 when wedging in winter. So far no problems of any kind. No need to add oil between changes (~5000 miles, at least once a year) either.

-I don't jack the car at all for oil change, as it's not necessary. I take ~one meter of extension pieces for the socket, throw a low 12l bucket under the car and drain the oil.

-So far I have never primed the oil pump. So far no problems of it, the oil pressure raises almost like on normal start.

-I fill the new filter half full and be very quick for the change. There's usually less than a spoon of leaked oil to clean up this way, if even that.

Summing it up, the 350i is one of the cleanest, fastest and easiest oil changes that I've ever done so far. I wouldn't stress about it.

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

243 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
quotequote all
Yeah I use 3 extension bars too so I don't need to get under the car, the jack just helps seeing the plug from the side.

I have been able to drain and refill in around 15 minutes which was once every 9 weeks when I commuted a lot.