350i oil change method.
Discussion
Hi Peeps...I have had Poppy now for 12 months and want to change her oil and filter...It has been recommended to me to essentially be fairly quick when doing the following..
1. Warm engine.
2. Undo sump plug & Drain old oil.
3. Remove old oil filter.
4. Replace sump plug and refill with new oil.
5. Fill filter housing/Hose with oil.
6. Replace with new oil filter.
7. Start car and run for a short period keeping an eye on the oil pressure light which should go out after a few seconds.
8. Check level and top up to correct level.
9. Carry on as normal....
Has anyone else done it this way as I'm not wanting to remove the distributor and start priming oil pimps....
Cheers...Ziga
1. Warm engine.
2. Undo sump plug & Drain old oil.
3. Remove old oil filter.
4. Replace sump plug and refill with new oil.
5. Fill filter housing/Hose with oil.
6. Replace with new oil filter.
7. Start car and run for a short period keeping an eye on the oil pressure light which should go out after a few seconds.
8. Check level and top up to correct level.
9. Carry on as normal....
Has anyone else done it this way as I'm not wanting to remove the distributor and start priming oil pimps....
Cheers...Ziga
Mark, I changed the oil last weekend and did it the same apart from I took the HT lead off the coil once all was filled and cranked it over until the oil warning light went out. I use an old plastic funnel stuck into the centre of the remote oil filter housing to top it and the hoses up, as per Adams recommendations. Takes a few minutes until oil seeps up the outer hole. Bang on the oil filter and jobs a good 'un.
rev-erend said:
mrzigazaga said:
Convert said:
Just one change Mark, fill the new filter before you warm car up, then keep tapping it and filling it until all the bubbles stop.
What and then turn it upside down and watch it all fall out again?....
Cheers...Ziga
Mark, the way you described is just fine. I never top up the filter with oil as it all spills out when fitting, and makes a mess. It is a good idea though to turn the engine over without an ignition connection, a few times once the engine has been filled with oil with the new filter on. If it has an imobliser you could use that. I have done this job several times and most recently last summer. Believe me people are fussing over nothing as it's not that critical. You won't blow your engine if you keep an eye on things when starting up. Don't forget, even when you drain the oil out, then refill, the engine still has the oil residue on all the surfaces and will survive a few seconds unless you rev it flat out.
Tony. TCB.
PS. 1.The sump plug is big so make sure you have the right spanner or an adjustable that opens very wide.
2. Replace sump plug first, then fit new filter, then fill engine with new oil.
Tony. TCB.
PS. 1.The sump plug is big so make sure you have the right spanner or an adjustable that opens very wide.
2. Replace sump plug first, then fit new filter, then fill engine with new oil.
Edited by ElvisWedgely on Monday 26th January 15:40
Edited by ElvisWedgely on Monday 26th January 15:44
Edited by ElvisWedgely on Monday 26th January 15:49
GV said:
Just in case you lose oil pressure - getting back is easy with the recomended priming tool so don't worry.
Thanks Andrew...However i don't plan to hang about when doing it so hopefully won't need to...Im ordering this...I take it its the right one...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-3-5-V8-Magnetic-Sump...
Reasonable procedure, only a few hints to add:
- in the weeks leading up to the oil change stop topping it up so it gets down to the "minimum" mark on the dipstick. Then there is less goo to dispose of. Also it fits into my "catch tank" which is a 5l oil can with one side cut out...
- time your change for after a reasonable drive not just a warm up. Then leave it for 15 minutes before the change so it drains down. Get all your tools ready including the big socket, and make a cup of tea.
- jack it up on the driver's side mainly, which aids draining.
- in the weeks leading up to the oil change stop topping it up so it gets down to the "minimum" mark on the dipstick. Then there is less goo to dispose of. Also it fits into my "catch tank" which is a 5l oil can with one side cut out...
- time your change for after a reasonable drive not just a warm up. Then leave it for 15 minutes before the change so it drains down. Get all your tools ready including the big socket, and make a cup of tea.
- jack it up on the driver's side mainly, which aids draining.
I always fill the filter before I put it on.you will be amazed how much it holds!!
Just put lots of rag around the filler base and be quick,hardly any comes out and you catch all that does. You will have a 3\4 litre gap in the oil line to the cooler if you don't.
I always let it have a good drain to get as much oil out as possible and have never had an issue with pressure.defo get a magnetic sump plug,after about 3 years of owning mine I put one in and next time I did a service it pulled out a complete valve collar spring and other stuff... Check this!
Placed it together and it was:
Who knows how long it was in the sump for before it was pulled out by the magnet!
Just put lots of rag around the filler base and be quick,hardly any comes out and you catch all that does. You will have a 3\4 litre gap in the oil line to the cooler if you don't.
I always let it have a good drain to get as much oil out as possible and have never had an issue with pressure.defo get a magnetic sump plug,after about 3 years of owning mine I put one in and next time I did a service it pulled out a complete valve collar spring and other stuff... Check this!
Placed it together and it was:
Who knows how long it was in the sump for before it was pulled out by the magnet!
In 25 years of owning Wedges I've never filled the filter before fitting. Once the oil is changed and new filter is on, my method is usually to disconnect the coil and disable the fueling (one of the relays) and crank the engine until the oil light goes out. Then reconnect everything and start as normal. Worth trying to get one of the circular allen headed magnetic sump plugs as well (although I've never heard of a Wedge losing one of the hex headed versions by contact with the road, unlike some other models.
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