Rear Hub removal

Rear Hub removal

Author
Discussion

marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Hi guys,
Taking the rear hub of today to get the wheel bearing removed
Its a 280 trailing arm, any tips / hints?
Cheers guys
Marcus

gmw9666

2,734 posts

199 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
yeah...........get a really long bar and 2 heavy friends lol


mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
gmw9666 said:
yeah...........get a really long bar and 2 heavy friends lol
Hi mate...This and as i remember the rear hubs are removable so i would take it to someone with press..Press out the old one..Carefully press in the new one..I wouldn't let anyone use a socket and hammer to re-fit if it was the last option on earth!...Ziga

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
If it's the alloy hub and the securing bolts won't undo easily then just take off the whole trailing arm and take that to the man with the press instead.

marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Well, i need to get a couple of heavy friends. Nothing i could do moved it. My twig like arms couldnt do it. Jumped on it, 4ft bar on it, nothing budged it.
Everything else loosened of fine,all ready to go except the blasted hub nut.
Marcus

gmw9666

2,734 posts

199 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
marcus1875 said:
Well, i need to get a couple of heavy friends. Nothing i could do moved it. My twig like arms couldnt do it. Jumped on it, 4ft bar on it, nothing budged it.
Everything else loosened of fine,all ready to go except the blasted hub nut.
Marcus
when I did this on the silver wedge it was a 6ft piece of scaffold pole over the end of a very large spanner (vs a socket) and me 17st and my father in law 16st




adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
I reckon that's 2300ft-lbs! Allowing standing room on the pole....

gmw9666

2,734 posts

199 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
I reckon that's 2300ft-lbs! Allowing standing room on the pole....
It was one tight nut lol

The other was just hand tight

Tasmin200

1,258 posts

186 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
It's ironic really, you can't get the nut undone and others have bother keeping them and their wheels on!

Do you know anyone with an electric impact driver thingy (can't remember what they are called)




Edited by Tasmin200 on Monday 2nd March 19:28

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
gmw9666 said:
The other was just hand tight
I take it that it was the N\S...Mine became loose after it was NOT fitted properly in the first place!...I thought i had a UJ gone as i could feel a clunk on moving off and stopping...One thing i never want to see that is Wedge related is my wheel under taking me on a motorway...yikes

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
An impact wrench. But a hammer on the pole while standing on it too has the same effect.

It's not ironic though - due to the handedness of the threads being the same, one side tends to tighten and the other side tends to unto (one wheel goes clockwise and the opposite anticlockwise).

This is why Alfa Romeo use left-hand threads on one side of the car.


marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Well. Copious amounts of Belhaven beer in the pub, one obstinate wedge owner and a powerful uncle that knew how to do it. Job done.
19" bar, o/s wheel, left arm on the wrench, right arm on a bar between the wheel nuts a wee bit left arm down and right arm opposite.
Job done.

marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all







Heres some pics immediately after removal. The hubs away to the garage with the bearing.
Does the spline shaft look a bit too oily and dirty for just the bearing? What do you think?
Marcus

Edited by marcus1875 on Monday 2nd March 21:35

mikanel

66 posts

169 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
A 4 foot min length of scaffold pole is essential, but I found putting on the space saver spare wheel and wedging this against a block of wood gave something more positive to lever against, very tight but it came undone OK.
Good luck Mike

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Hi Marcus...It could be the grease from the UJ which has possibly failed...Are you sure its the wheel bearing?...The splines should be kept clean..A recommendation of tying a plastic bag over it when the hub is removed is good practice...Ziga

marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Hi Mark, ive wrapped the whole lot in clingfilm hopefully that'll keep it clean.
I'm not sure about the grease, it does look worse at the uj end though tbh. The bearings getting done anyway.
The noise i hear when its running isnt a rumble i'd expect from a bearing tho, its more like metal screeching against metal while under load.
How hard to replace the uj?

bradderztvr

364 posts

146 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Started today replacing the rear suspension and bushes. I foresee a problem getting access to the internal nut of the trailing arm pin and the two smaller nuts holding the bush plate in place, as the exhaust and prop shaft are filling the gap. I don't want to really remove the exhaust as it's over 20yrs old, and looks a bit delicate?
Anyone with experience of this ( The Wedge Bible states a possible rear exhaust removal).

Wedg1e

26,760 posts

264 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
marcus1875 said:
How hard to replace the uj?
In theory? Ten minutes. In practice can be an hour or more depending on what facilities you have and what's seized.

The splines and the surface of the stub axle that passes through the wheel bearings ought to be clean and dry; what you don't want is any chance of the stub spinning in the bearing as it'll damage the shaft surface and this would be facilitated by any lubricant. Ideally the splines want to be a nice sliding fit between hub and shaft; you'll probably find a small amount of slack but what you definitely don't want to see is the tips of the splines chipped or rounding-off!


marcus1875

Original Poster:

1,512 posts

141 months

Tuesday 10th March 2015
quotequote all


Got the hub back with the bearing fitted.
I've cleaned all rubbish of the shaft. The UJ looks fine, no leakage and all intact.
I've checked and cleaned each spline again they are fine, sharp and true.
Just to make sure...when refitting the section of the shaft that fits in the bearing ought to be clean and dry (as it now is) with no grease on it?
Cheers
Marcus

wild rover

445 posts

180 months

Tuesday 10th March 2015
quotequote all
I have always greased the splines saves them rusting together with the bearing years down the line.