Fuel tank removal

[440Interceptor]

I have removed the n/s tank for cleaning and painting but the offside one, with filler hose, is another story. Is there an easy way to do this or am I cutting through sealant etc and chopping through hoses to get it out?

I very intelligently managed to break off the lower nozzle on this tank that goes to the swirl pot when I took the body off, so that needs reattaching, otherwise I would probably leave them both in situ, clean, paint (POR15)and replace the straps with stainless or ally.

[Wedg1e]

If you remove the trim from behind the driver's seat you should be able to access the filler neck to remove the Jubilee clips, then pull the inlet hose and breather off the tank. From underneath it then just needs the other hoses and tank sender disconnecting and the retaining straps removing. Some cars have a small GRP filler panel that prevents road water being thrown up towards the filler neck from the right-hand wheel; the water can get into the cabin that way. The panel is usually held in place by half a dozen pop rivets and a squirt of sealant.

[440Interceptor]

Thanks Ian. Those hoses from the filler neck are so hard I thought they might be metal... I suppose I've answered my own question then haven't I? Does anyone know if replacements are available?

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Toby..
You should have a top filler neck part..Then a piece of 2" fuel delivery hose..Then the filler neck (Alloy i think) and finally another piece of 2" fuel delivery hose which connects the neck to the tanks 2" inlet collar...Like this...


The 2" petrol hose should be a fuel delivery hose which is used in aircraft applications..Boats use it also but be careful as some of it is NOT for being immersed in fuel..This is advisory for the 2" joiner in-between the tanks...You might be lucky and have the smaller hose but my 280i had the 2".
There was a post as regards to the hoses and i will go through all my "Bookmarks"...Trust me there is 5 years worth but i will find them and post them up...There are companies that sell the complete kits as far as coolant hoses but they are around £200..I will see if i can find some links to them as well...Cheers...Ziga

Update:

2" Fuel hose
I purchased AlfagommaT-650 petrol delivery hose from Lantech solutions.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...

There are other manufacturers of this type but a fair amount have the steel helix instead of the fabric weave..This can cause sealing issues as the steel can restrict the torque on the clip and reduce the sealing properties of the hose...I would also suggest using the best quality clips you can afford...

It might be worth calling them to see if they still stock it though...

Shame this is in the states...

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...

Edited by mrzigazaga on Monday 16th March 09:16

[John042]

Toby, reading your posts, would I be right in assuming that leaving the tanks in "situ" might be a good plan?I'm facing a future project in re-commisioning a vehicle that has laid dormant for 10 years+. I was considering complete tank removal, internal cleaning etc to dispose of any internal corrosion. Could this be accomplished with the tanks fitted. obviously replacing pipes, tank straps on condition? Thanks for any thoughts on this subject. Cheers John C.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi John...Having done this i would strongly suggest removing the tanks if they need cleaning and sealing..If you can get an endoscope or better still one of these...
http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=l&ai=C0-1saJoG...
(You may be able to borrow one from someone who works on drains etc...) then at least you will know the condition of the tanks and whether they need removing or not.....My 280i sat for 11 years and fortunately for me the passenger side had already been plastic coated inside by a previous owner..However the drivers side was a complete pile of rust and had to be replaced...I was very lucky to have a fellow Wedger with a nearly new one in his garage...I may of sourced a pair but the condition is unknown.....Ziga

[John042]

Thanks Ziga. I have an internal scope which links to a lap top so "bend over" for an internal Are the tank straps available? Cheers John C.

[mrzigazaga]

John042 said:

Thanks Ziga. I have an internal scope which links to a lap top so "bend over" for an internal Are the tank straps available? Cheers John C.

..good job i can't touch me toes any more...As for the straps I'm not sure if they are available as they were probably made to fit the custom TVR tanks..I shouldn't think it would cost that much to have someone make some...Perhaps our friend who's site is a must have on your favs might be able to make some...

Top site:

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...

Some info on cleaning the tanks...Although I'm not sure about the lining these days, Especially with the increasing amounts of ethanol...

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...

There might be something that could be retro fitted but don't quote me on it...

http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&ai=CE12D3qkG...

[John042]

Thanks again Ziga.Food for thought.Most immediate tasks are to fit sump, rocker covers (Purchase rubber gaskets from the Capri Club)Even think about fitting the lump after checking condition of engine bay, fuel pipes etc. Most immediate though is to sell my motorcycle, need more room That will make someone happy. Cheers John C.

[Wedg1e]

I found that the tank straps, and the insides of the tanks themselves, had been galvanised on my car. A small amount of corrosion was evident along the welded joints where the zinc coating had been vapourised in the welding but they were still largely sound (although one had a pinprick hole in the top, corroded from outside in).

[SEvans]

When I removed both tanks the near side was easy enough but the off side was a different matter due to the filler neck. Even with everything removed (suspension, exhaust etc)and the body raised a few inches I still couldn't remove the tank without cutting away some of the fiber glass around the filler.
The straps are easy enough to make. I just used some stainless strips, bent in a vice and drilled. Glue some rubber on to protect the tank.. job done.
Cheers Steve

[mrzigazaga]

As Steve say's..Although the O/S tank did come out on my 280i with the removal of the trailing arms and exhaust...Oh and a lot of swearing and knuckle skin....

[440Interceptor]

Woo hoo! Both tanks out now. They both look pretty good although one has a patch of surface rust on top of it, but nothing that will be a problem. Will definitely need some 2" fuel hose now!

Re straps, I agree, making up some out of stainless shouldn't be too hard using the old ones as a template. Onward!

Edited by 440Interceptor on Tuesday 17th March 12:59

[mrzigazaga]

440Interceptor said:

Woo hoo! Both tanks out now.

...Cool

[440Interceptor]

Should I sandblast the fuel tanks or is the steel too thin?

[440Interceptor]

I have purchased a fuel tank repair kit from the makers of POR15 for peace of mind in the future. I am also having some stainless tank straps made up. Will then give the outside the marine clean/metal ready/POR15 treatment and they'll be better than new!

[mrzigazaga]

Hi mate...If it includes a process of plastic coating the inside then be careful as the ethanol content of modern fuels can cause issues...Make sure you research it a fair amount if so...Ziga

[440Interceptor]

Thanks Ziga, product says its tested with Ethanol but there are mixed reports of how well it works. Given I had no problems with leaks in the past I might let sleeping dogs do what they do best. Let you know what I decide. Cheers.

[Wedg1e]

440Interceptor said:

Should I sandblast the fuel tanks or is the steel too thin?

It's 1.2mm on my car... would stand a good hammering from AlOx but I'd be tempted to see whether they're galvanised under the black paint first: it'd be pointless blasting away an existing anti-corrosion treatment

ETA some info from my fuel tank repair:

http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p15.ht...

Edited by Wedg1e on Wednesday 25th March 01:25

[440Interceptor]

Thanks Ian, my repairer says they're galvo.