Front wheel bearings - manufacturers etc.
Discussion
Hi all,
I am looking into ordering some front wheel bearings. Anyone had any experiences with stuff off the flea or our standard stockists or motor factors?
Please let me know if it was good/bad (has/hasn't failed) and who the bearing manufacturer was. Cheers!
So far I have found the granny front/capri/escort rear all seem to have the same part number either QWB416 or Trupart: TBK045
I am looking into ordering some front wheel bearings. Anyone had any experiences with stuff off the flea or our standard stockists or motor factors?
Please let me know if it was good/bad (has/hasn't failed) and who the bearing manufacturer was. Cheers!
So far I have found the granny front/capri/escort rear all seem to have the same part number either QWB416 or Trupart: TBK045
Cheers I have heard good things about both manufacturers. Picked a set up off the flea for £7 as an emergency in case it suddenly gets worse but in the mean time I'll keep an eye open as I'd rather fit once and forget.
Incidentally when you do the inner race is it just a matter of dropping the caliper off and then pulling the disk off the stub axle with the hub and it pops out the back? I expect there's a seal there too??
Incidentally when you do the inner race is it just a matter of dropping the caliper off and then pulling the disk off the stub axle with the hub and it pops out the back? I expect there's a seal there too??
The ones I've used in the past are TIMKEN but strangely some are marked made in the UK and another was FRANCE ? The other make I've used is KOYO, and from memory both makes came from my local Ford garage, who were as cheap as chips.
Top tip for knocking a racer out....cut an old one through with an angle grinder and use it as the drift holding a suitable sized socket on top to hit with the hammer. Same method to knock the new one in evenly.
Top tip for knocking a racer out....cut an old one through with an angle grinder and use it as the drift holding a suitable sized socket on top to hit with the hammer. Same method to knock the new one in evenly.
Here's even more OEM part number cross references, the SKF one is VKBA528 by the looks of it. £12.65 on the flea. Febi/Bilstein are on offer on the flea, anyone used these too?
5007028, 26413, 0.026408, 0.026413, 78/15, 5217, 0986800333, 0986005053, 536242004, 17886, 1788601, 050100B, VKBA528, 361111181456, QWB416, 3021.2, CW0508, A800X1K028BA, 5394, 50805394, 853016001, 16.0015, BK136, WM416, BWK055, 713678150, 752510, 300004
This is useful:
In our application are the outer surfaces fitted, or not? When I had the outer race out the other day, it didn't look like it.
5007028, 26413, 0.026408, 0.026413, 78/15, 5217, 0986800333, 0986005053, 536242004, 17886, 1788601, 050100B, VKBA528, 361111181456, QWB416, 3021.2, CW0508, A800X1K028BA, 5394, 50805394, 853016001, 16.0015, BK136, WM416, BWK055, 713678150, 752510, 300004
This is useful:
In our application are the outer surfaces fitted, or not? When I had the outer race out the other day, it didn't look like it.
Edited by adam quantrill on Thursday 16th April 08:40
Just checking differences in measurements I have found on tinternet... they seem pretty close.
QWB416
Outer Diameter 1 [mm]: 50,3
Inner Diameter 1 [mm]: 29
Width 1 [mm]: 14,7
Outer Diameter 2 [mm]: 39,9
Inner Diameter 2 [mm]: 17,5
SKF VBKA528
Height 1: 14.73 mm
Height2: 15 mm
Outer Diameter 1: 50 mm
Outer Diameter 2: 40 mm
Inner Diameter 1: 29mm
Inner Diameter 2: 17.5mm
I now have both types coming in the post so hopefully the SKF one will fit, if not, the cheapie.
The cheap one has just arrived and it's made by CMC so I think I'll hold off installing it and put the SKF one in.
QWB416
Outer Diameter 1 [mm]: 50,3
Inner Diameter 1 [mm]: 29
Width 1 [mm]: 14,7
Outer Diameter 2 [mm]: 39,9
Inner Diameter 2 [mm]: 17,5
SKF VBKA528
Height 1: 14.73 mm
Height2: 15 mm
Outer Diameter 1: 50 mm
Outer Diameter 2: 40 mm
Inner Diameter 1: 29mm
Inner Diameter 2: 17.5mm
I now have both types coming in the post so hopefully the SKF one will fit, if not, the cheapie.
The cheap one has just arrived and it's made by CMC so I think I'll hold off installing it and put the SKF one in.
Edited by adam quantrill on Saturday 16th September 14:57
Well the job is half done, have driven out the old shells quite easily with my small cold chisel, and measured them and the new ones are bang on give or take 0.01mm.
So preparing for reassembly now, the new shells are in the freezer to shrink them, clean out the old grease and gunk.
Just about to research what bearing grease to use - I have lithium/moly CV grease here, and high-temperature LM grease, any suggestions (the new bearing didn't come with any).
So preparing for reassembly now, the new shells are in the freezer to shrink them, clean out the old grease and gunk.
Just about to research what bearing grease to use - I have lithium/moly CV grease here, and high-temperature LM grease, any suggestions (the new bearing didn't come with any).
Seems moly CV grease according to our capri friends: http://www.fordcaprilaser.co.uk/page108.html
Also they give a nice procedure for setting up the torque. 25lbf on the nut while spinning the greased bearing to seat it. Then back off the nut 90 degrees.
Also they give a nice procedure for setting up the torque. 25lbf on the nut while spinning the greased bearing to seat it. Then back off the nut 90 degrees.
OK all back together...
Top tips - use the old shells as advised above, and grind off a few thou so they are an easy push fit and remove by hand. You can do this with a bench grinder easy enough, or probably an angle grinder on the flat face if you are careful with your fingers!
Make sure you clean off any burrs inside the hub as advised on the capri site above.
Make up a compresser - I used some M10 threaded rod and a bunch of massive washers so you can pass it right through the hub. Make a packing piece about 2mm thick e.g. aly, copper, or as I did, lead sheet, that goes right around the old shell. This will stop it slipping about in the bigger hole.
Put the new shells in the freezer at -20C.
Take each new shell out of the freezer one at a time and press it in with the old shell with the packing piece wrapped around, using the threaded comresser, and tap it every half turn of the nut with a hammer. It will go in parallel and quite easily. Make sure it's seated on the rear face.
Did 100+ miles today - all quiet and dandy.
Top tips - use the old shells as advised above, and grind off a few thou so they are an easy push fit and remove by hand. You can do this with a bench grinder easy enough, or probably an angle grinder on the flat face if you are careful with your fingers!
Make sure you clean off any burrs inside the hub as advised on the capri site above.
Make up a compresser - I used some M10 threaded rod and a bunch of massive washers so you can pass it right through the hub. Make a packing piece about 2mm thick e.g. aly, copper, or as I did, lead sheet, that goes right around the old shell. This will stop it slipping about in the bigger hole.
Put the new shells in the freezer at -20C.
Take each new shell out of the freezer one at a time and press it in with the old shell with the packing piece wrapped around, using the threaded comresser, and tap it every half turn of the nut with a hammer. It will go in parallel and quite easily. Make sure it's seated on the rear face.
Did 100+ miles today - all quiet and dandy.
Edited by adam quantrill on Tuesday 28th April 17:45
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