Discussion
My Wedge runs hot. Normal is on the 90C mark, and in traffic on a hot day it will climb to the centre of the red before the fans kick in (and then it drops to just below the red). I don't know what temperature the engine actually is but it certainly feels hot. It sits about half way in the winter.
The thing is the car is happy and drives really well once at temperature. It has done this for the last year I've had it, and both the previous owners have told me it was like this with them.
Still seems wrong.....
The thing is the car is happy and drives really well once at temperature. It has done this for the last year I've had it, and both the previous owners have told me it was like this with them.
Still seems wrong.....
Edited by JumboBeef on Wednesday 15th April 14:24
I run with a lower stat and tell tale stuck on the top and bottom hoses. They tell me 82 in at the top and 70 odd out at the bottom. Gauge is normally around the white line but never over.
I used the tell tales as I do not trust the gauge. I also bought an infra red temp sensor when I was paranoid. Confirmed the tell tale stickers and is handy for checking the temperature of other stuff such as cheeses or walls.
I used the tell tales as I do not trust the gauge. I also bought an infra red temp sensor when I was paranoid. Confirmed the tell tale stickers and is handy for checking the temperature of other stuff such as cheeses or walls.
Hi mate..As said check what stat you have in there or do you have a fan thermostatic control?...If it has then maybe that could do with a re-calibrate...I think the thermostat in mine is about an 88 so by 92 you would want the fan to bring it down a bit..You don't want it coming on too early or you will actually over cool the engine...It should sit around the white line, Maybe a tad under..If what is in the picture is when the fans kick in then that should be fine as long as its not coming on all the time...Could come on a little bit earlier but if you just have an otter switch then your stuck with it...This is why i wanted to install a thermostatic fan switch but keep the manual override switch.
You need to start with the basics first - is the gauge reading correctly? Quite often there's a resistor at the sender end to get the VDO gauge to read right - it it's missing the gauge will read 5-10 degrees too hot (like yours).
So start my measuring the temp at the sender with an accurate IR thermometer.
So start my measuring the temp at the sender with an accurate IR thermometer.
JumboBeef said:
Hot......
That is perfectly normal. I used to own the sister car of yours, (yellow) modified by the same person as your car, and it did exactly what you are describing. I owned that car for two years and never had any problems. Also, my one was fitted with a secondary accurate tempreture gauge which proved that the original was innacurate. I have also owned a few other wedges before that and all had reading high temprature in traffic, but never overheating. It's worrying, I know, but as long as the fan kicks in and the engine runs happily, with no leaks, don't worry about it.Tony. TCB.
ElvisWedgely said:
JumboBeef said:
Hot......
That is perfectly normal. I used to own the sister car of yours, (yellow) modified by the same person as your car, and it did exactly what you are describing. I owned that car for two years and never had any problems. Also, my one was fitted with a secondary accurate tempreture gauge which proved that the original was innacurate. I have also owned a few other wedges before that and all had reading high temprature in traffic, but never overheating. It's worrying, I know, but as long as the fan kicks in and the engine runs happily, with no leaks, don't worry about it.Tony. TCB.
Thanks Tony. The car runs absolutely fine but the first time it climbed into the red I was a bit worried.
Glad to hear yours was the same.
Nothing wrong with an override. Cost a switch and a few wires and a few piggy back lunars. Just got my mits on a modwise replacement otter doohickey, use it to run the fans based on the rad outlet. Might go for thiet twin speed cooling thingamabob as well, I do have two fans.
Also blocked the spaces around the rad as much a possible.
Also blocked the spaces around the rad as much a possible.
A high temperature reading on the existing temp gauge, in traffic, in the summer on a V8 wedge is normal, but for those who are worried, you could leave the heater slider in the ON position all year, and switch the fan blower on in traffic when the temperature creeps up. It acts as a secondary radiator to take the heat away from the engine making the cabin nice and warm like a sauna. Just what you need on nice warm summers day.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
Was thinking of putting a new thermostat in my 350i. According to the PH wiki parts list its a 82 degrees C unit but according to the Steve Heath manual he says that TVR used a special 74 degrees C unit. This might well bring the running temperature down. Has anyone replaced their thermostst and checked to see if it is a 74C or the more common 82C unit?
KKson said:
Was thinking of putting a new thermostat in my 350i. According to the PH wiki parts list its a 82 degrees C unit but according to the Steve Heath manual he says that TVR used a special 74 degrees C unit. This might well bring the running temperature down. Has anyone replaced their thermostst and checked to see if it is a 74C or the more common 82C unit?
Weather the thermostat opens at 74 or 82 shouldn't make any difference to how hot the engine runs. That would only effect how soon the engine heats up. Things that effect maximum engine temperature are, adequate water circulation, radiator fin area and the fan or fans. Also the system needs to be pressurising for adequate cooling so any leak in the system would effect engine temperature.Tony. TCB.
82 stat Sounds about right..So by 86-88 the fan should be coming on...Jumbo do you just have the otter switch controlling the fan?...Not sure what they are set to..88-90?..Maybe a cooler stat is in order but then you would ideally need a thermostatic fan control switch so that you can bring the cooling down as regards to the fan..Or you may as well stick with what you have...
I think maybe a thermostatic probe in the rad fins or water hose would be better..A thermostatic dial could then be calibrated to the cooling temperature of the fans..Say for a 74 degree = 78-80 fans on..A twin fan set up should only need one fan unless the temperature rises another 8-10 degrees and then the second fan kicks in.
For those using an otter switch or thermostatic fan switch faucet then the temperature is pre-determined and unadjustable....I think I'm edging towards a lower temp stat and a thermostatically controlled fan...Keeping the manual override for just in cases....Ziga
I think maybe a thermostatic probe in the rad fins or water hose would be better..A thermostatic dial could then be calibrated to the cooling temperature of the fans..Say for a 74 degree = 78-80 fans on..A twin fan set up should only need one fan unless the temperature rises another 8-10 degrees and then the second fan kicks in.
For those using an otter switch or thermostatic fan switch faucet then the temperature is pre-determined and unadjustable....I think I'm edging towards a lower temp stat and a thermostatically controlled fan...Keeping the manual override for just in cases....Ziga
I have replaced my 82 degree with a 74 degree thermostat and it dosent alter the temp it justs means the thermostat opens earlier and i have my fans coming on at 82 so as long as they work it never gets into 90 degrees even in traffic. Only over heated once with me when the fuse for the fan blew so fan didnt come on.
I know what you mean about it not seeming right. If the car lives in the red how are you supposed to know if it actually does overheat, until it's too late? Can't the gauge/sender be recalibrated/replaced if its reading wrong?
So the first question is whether it's running hot or just reading wrong. If it is running hot you're running the risk of damaging the wiring in the engine bay, cooking the battery plus putting stress on the whole system. I would get it temp/pressure tested at a rad specialist
Elvis is right, water pump, rad and fans all need to be up to the job.
I managed to keep a worked Jensen 7.2ltr cool in 40 Deg C or more for years. I fitted a fan override switch when I bought the car and didn't use it once. Having to put the heater on or popping the bonnet should be emergency measures only I.M.O. My only problem in really hot conditions was fuel evaporation from the carbs.
I did however spend money on a custom radiator with an otter switch that switched the fan on early enough that I never needed the override.
Well kept cars shouldn't overheat, and there's not much more stressful that driving along watching your temp gauge and wondering if she's gonna blow.
My 5 cents worth.
So the first question is whether it's running hot or just reading wrong. If it is running hot you're running the risk of damaging the wiring in the engine bay, cooking the battery plus putting stress on the whole system. I would get it temp/pressure tested at a rad specialist
Elvis is right, water pump, rad and fans all need to be up to the job.
I managed to keep a worked Jensen 7.2ltr cool in 40 Deg C or more for years. I fitted a fan override switch when I bought the car and didn't use it once. Having to put the heater on or popping the bonnet should be emergency measures only I.M.O. My only problem in really hot conditions was fuel evaporation from the carbs.
I did however spend money on a custom radiator with an otter switch that switched the fan on early enough that I never needed the override.
Well kept cars shouldn't overheat, and there's not much more stressful that driving along watching your temp gauge and wondering if she's gonna blow.
My 5 cents worth.
440Interceptor said:
I managed to keep a worked Jensen 7.2ltr cool in 40 Deg C or more for years.
That does sound cool...(Excuse the pun..
)..Any pics...I love a Jensen.....
But yes get it where it should be..I manually turn on my fan when mine is on the white line and will at some point fit a fan switch..I think they do a thermostat housing with a switch already inside it but whether they fit the Range rover D1 refi V8 is an unanswered question...However i would probably go for the thermostatic probe or faucet....
mrzigazaga said:
I think they do a thermostat housing with a switch already inside it but whether they fit the Range rover D1 refi V8 is an unanswered question...However i would probably go for the thermostatic probe or faucet....
Got one sat on the shelf. Its next on the list if the new thingamabob I have is not satisfactory, but the temperature switches that go in it, I have not yet fathomed.Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff