Bulkhead Bushing Question

[Grady]

ETA- I initially screwed this up but I've added some notes at the end.

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I’m 99% sure I got the correct metal bushing based on prior threads. It is ¾” ID when 11/16” would have been closer but tested OK when the 2 grub screws were tightened.

Having installed the bushing and shaft (but not the column), there is a lot of play caused by the thickness of the fiberglass bulkhead keeping the brackets apart (I surmise). Is this as it should be?

To install it, I:
1) Removed the pitch bolt on the steering column side of the bulkhead UJ;
2) removed the steering column and shaft
3) removed the old bushing bracket/support (engine side), washers and debris
4) Installed the bushing between the new supports and snugged up the new bolts (the grub screws are on the cockpit side as there is no room on the engine side).

So I still have to 1) tighten the grubs on the shaft and 2) Put the column back on the shaft.

Thanks Grady

Edited by Grady on Sunday 24th May 02:56

Edited by Grady on Monday 25th May 01:40

[mrzigazaga]

Hi mate..Don't think there should be any play?....

[350zwelgje]

It should have no play. Think the two metal plates holding the bearing are not the same.

Perhaps you need to change the two to get it closer/without play to the bulkhead and bearing, or...
in my case the splines on the steering column where the grub screws hold the bearing, they are on the limit/end to be close enough to the bulkhead to have no play.

Rob

[Grady]

I see the problem, I think. I seperated the mounting flanges so one was inside the engine bay and the other in the car thus sandwiching the bulkhead but leaving a space between the flanges the thickness of the bulkhead. But I woke up thinking, and I think this picture from Stevoj's post shows, both flanges should be on the same side thus pinching the new bushing.



Can someone please confirm that placement as these old bones don't like 'wedging' in the foot well more than necessary. Thanks Grady

[PoleDriver]

Both plates should definitely be on the same side! I can't confirm which side though.

[stevoj]

Def both plates on the same side sandwiching the bearing, the original fitting of the old type is on the wheel arch side and all references i have seen refer to the fitting on the wheel arch side, although there is possibly no reason it couldn't be on the inside of the bulk head!

[Grady]

Some comments on changing the bushing - and if you can do it in a hour, you are a far better wedger than me... All this applies to 86 US 280i with no power steering, yours may be different.

It a pain to change with one person or the begrudged help of an aggravated spouse. Some of it would be easier with a helper as you work between the wheel well to the foot well.

Plan on taking the upper UJ off and dropping the steering shaft/column. Clean and lube the connections.

On mine, the upper UJ (shaft to the rack) had a 3/4" long slot ground in the threads which allowed some play/adjustment. The other end (going to the steering shaft) had a single place where the pinch bolt fits. I expanded the pinches a bit and sprayed lube in so I wasn't fighting those connections.

The bushing noted above is smaller/shorter than the OEM one. Use the bottom hole and drill/expand a new hole at the top to avoid interference with the UJ turning and hitting the body work.

The steering shaft is very soft. Initially I tapped it in to the UJ with a hammer and it slightly defaced the interior end of the shaft so it wouldn't slide into the column. I had to Dremmel it, clean and re-lube. But otherwise it slips right in.

When refitting the bushing, I used blue painters tape to hold the steering shaft in approximate position (I taped it to the column adjustment brackets). Otherwise it's so heavy it wants to fall down and distort the fitment.

All the bolts were 5/16" and needed a 1/2" socket or wrench. But some were so buggered I thought they were metric.

The 1-1/4" grade 8 bolts (for the pinch bolts) I used are longer than regular bolts. But I cut the ends off with a Dremmel cut-off wheel.

Have fun. Grady

[Wedg1e]

In principle you could fit the bearing inside the car however a couple of things occur... firstly it's probably easier to work in the wheelarch than in the footwell; secondly you can use lots of sealant behind the mounting plates to stop water getting into the car, this works better when there's no 'shelf' created by the exposed edge of GRP you'd have if the bearing was inside; thirdly, in order to fit the bearing inside the car you'd have to telescope the column a bit, reducing its ability to do so in a crash; fourthly, with the bearing inside the car, the upper pinch bolt of the column UJ would be likely to foul the GRP and even if it didn't it would certainly be harder to get a spanner on as it'd be close to the footwell wall... and that's just what I can think of while munching a croissant

ETA I'd also fit the nuts from inside the car as it keeps the threads clean in case/ for when you need to take it apart again.

[Grady]

I don't disagree and dry fitted it engine bay. However, the rack shaft would have had to be shortened an inch to have the clearance for that to work. The UJ was right up on the old plate and the new one is about an inch longer plus it needs to grub to the thicker part of the shaft.

Is there any adjustment in the actual rack so that it could be slid forward? Grady

ETA - Took it out for a spin and it works great. Seems the slow-speed steering may feel a little lighter. Hopefully I'll never have to change it again and it almost did put me in a wheelchair.

Edited by Grady on Monday 25th May 21:13