350i distributor vacuum connector
Discussion
Right, new dissy fitted and car started first turn of the key. I timed it at 8 degrees BTDC but it pinked like mad so I've taken it back to 4 degrees for now. I only pottered very local due to lack of bonnet but all seemed good and the dissy wasn't doing the hokey cokey. I'll get the bonnet back on tomorrow evening and give it a longer run just to check all is well.
Only little niggle is that the new dissy has the ignition amp opposite the vacuum advance whereas the original had the vacuum advance at 12 oclock with the amp at 9 oclock so there was plenty of adjustment. Seems to work fine though. Fingers crossed for the longer run.
Only little niggle is that the new dissy has the ignition amp opposite the vacuum advance whereas the original had the vacuum advance at 12 oclock with the amp at 9 oclock so there was plenty of adjustment. Seems to work fine though. Fingers crossed for the longer run.
Got the bonnet back on and been annoying the village driving about. Engine still pinked badly at 4 degrees BTDC when hoofed and also at 2 degrees so now set at TDC according to markings, which to be honest was where it was previously. Car runs clean, pulls strong and no evidence of any misfire.
One thing I do notice is that the engine doesn't like having the old timing light connected to no 1 HT lead. It's an old fashioned lamp which connects in line from spark plug to HT lead. When connected the engine over a minute or so started running rough and eventually died. As soon as the timing light was removed then all was back to normal. Does the ECU sense No 1 plug firing so and fitting the inline lamp affect things? I'll have a few days taking the wedge to work to ensure all is well. Cheers for all advice.
One thing I do notice is that the engine doesn't like having the old timing light connected to no 1 HT lead. It's an old fashioned lamp which connects in line from spark plug to HT lead. When connected the engine over a minute or so started running rough and eventually died. As soon as the timing light was removed then all was back to normal. Does the ECU sense No 1 plug firing so and fitting the inline lamp affect things? I'll have a few days taking the wedge to work to ensure all is well. Cheers for all advice.
...Normal service resumed then...NiceKKson said:
Only little niggle is that the new dissy has the ignition amp opposite the vacuum advance whereas the original had the vacuum advance at 12 oclock with the amp at 9 oclock so there was plenty of adjustment. Seems to work fine though. Fingers crossed for the longer run.
It is a bit odd that both versions carry the 35DLM8 designation but they do have different part numbers. With care the 'opposite' version will have enough range of adjustment unless you have the high-level PAS pump (as on my car) where the bracket gets in the way.I have a few spare dissies and looked at how one type might be converted to the other but it's not exactly straightforward as Lucas changed the casting to include a thicker area behind the ignition amp, plus there are cast-in thread inserts, the screws don't go directly into the dissy body.
The baseplates are also different as the vac pull-rod exits the body in different places.
Took the wedge to the office today and no misfire however it's still pinking at high revs/high load with timing now set at TDC. If I try to creep it back on the timing then it pinks at all bloody revs. The dissy is a new one from Powerspark and is supposed to be for landrovers and 350i, according to the list of compatible cars. I've read that different dissys have different counterweights and vacuum advance curves. Could it be that the new dissy advance curve is a little too severe/different to the original?
Looking at my old dissy I'll be honest and say that the vacuum advance is so knackered I doubt it's been working for some time. I presume I could try a drive around the block with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged to see how that behaves? Any thoughts?
Looking at my old dissy I'll be honest and say that the vacuum advance is so knackered I doubt it's been working for some time. I presume I could try a drive around the block with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged to see how that behaves? Any thoughts?
I used to own a car spares shop and I can tell you with car parts such as distributors etc. you get what you pay for. Personally, I would have fitted a Lucas or an Intermotor part or at the worst a second hand unit but a well known make. Yes, the problem does sound electrical and your old distributor had had it, but having said that, you may have a combibation of electrical faults and not the distributor alone. Just my opinion.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
Thanks gents, I can get my hands on an original Lucas dissy next week for a Rover V8 so might pop that in to see if there's a difference. I'll also top up with some 97 Ron, which I had been using of late but the last couple of tanks were basic Morrison stuff.
The original problem was a very noticeable misfire which felt as if the car was going to die - that's now all gone and if I drive is reasonably sensibly it all goes fine - it's only at the top of the rev range when booted hard that it pinks. If I let the revs build up to max without full throttle boot then all is good. I will also investigate the costs of rebuilding the original. Cheers.
The original problem was a very noticeable misfire which felt as if the car was going to die - that's now all gone and if I drive is reasonably sensibly it all goes fine - it's only at the top of the rev range when booted hard that it pinks. If I let the revs build up to max without full throttle boot then all is good. I will also investigate the costs of rebuilding the original. Cheers.
mrzigazaga said:
Fuel then....Sometimes mine pinks on 98ron if i change where i get it from but generally..Shell...V-power is okay...My Wedge hates anything less and does what you are describing mate...
I have always used super unleaded or V power in all the Wedges I've owned. I think all V8 Wedges run and perform better on this type of fuel. Like you Mark, I always pay more and buy better quality parts. Buying cheaper parts is false economy and can give massive headaches.Tony TCB.
Hi, I'm timing off the crankshaft pulley wheel. Something not quite right with this new dissy. I'm going to get a new timing light also as when I plug the old unit in, which has the sensor connected in line between the spark plug and HT lead, the engine runs rough and not happy. As soon as I disconnect all is happy again. It's my birthday next week so I've dropped enough hints and left enough suitable favourites in the Amazon basket and ebay "watchings" that hopefully she'll get the hint!! I'm also getting my hands on another dissy on Monday to give that a go. It runs sweet up to around 4700rpm and then starts pinking.
Apparently the new distributors are nothing like the cough cough "Modified TVR distributors"...They are okay for Rover applications but foul on the top rad hose on a Wedge...Making adjustment very difficult...I might need to replace mine but I'm waiting for a friend to test something he has in mind and if works then its something we might all consider...
Keep your old dizzy......
Keep your old dizzy......mrzigazaga said:
Apparently the new distributors are nothing like the cough cough "Modified TVR distributors"...They are okay for Rover applications but foul on the top rad hose on a Wedge...Making adjustment very difficult...I might need to replace mine but I'm waiting for a friend to test something he has in mind and if works then its something we might all consider...Keep your old dizzy......
I stripped my old "hokey cokey" dissy tonight and to be honest it's not too bad. The biggest issue is the totally warped rotor arm which has twisted a good 5mm out of true, no doubt not helped by the enthusiastic speed and corresponding under bonnet temperatures at Millbrook. The vertical movement on the shaft is down to a badly shrunken and perished O ring that sits under the circlip but above the 8 point magnetic pick up. I'm now intending to give it all a damn good clean, light oil and try a rebuild myself as there's not a lot to the dissy when you take it all apart. The vacuum/advance unit now works all fine since I've stripped, cleaned and lightly oiled it.Keep your old dizzy......KKson said:
I'm now intending to give it all a damn good clean, light oil and try a rebuild myself as there's not a lot to the dissy when you take it all apart.
Exactly...This is why is said don't throw it away, Im waiting on the results of a friend who has done just that...He bought a new pick up and has rebuilt his old one...He has a new one in there at the moment but has had to set the static timing at 15 degrees....Apparently the old dizzy was an early points type that TVR ripped the guts out of and fitted electronic pick ups..Wonders will never cease...However if it is as easy as he say's then thanks TVR...We love you.....ZigaIt's amazing how ever Wedge is very much different to the next.
I changed my old dizzy last year as the original TVR one was buggered, put a new Powerspark one in, timed it to 8 degrees BTDC and not had any problems.
I think some of the issues with older cars, is you don't know what previous owners have played or tampered with. I'm fortunate that there has only been one previous owner for my old girl and was only serviced or worked on by TVR Engineering Blackpool.
I changed my old dizzy last year as the original TVR one was buggered, put a new Powerspark one in, timed it to 8 degrees BTDC and not had any problems.
I think some of the issues with older cars, is you don't know what previous owners have played or tampered with. I'm fortunate that there has only been one previous owner for my old girl and was only serviced or worked on by TVR Engineering Blackpool.
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