Throttle Cable Clip
Discussion
Help, pretty please. I'm missing the spring clip that secures the throttle cable to the control arm. My usual sources have been unable to help. They are available from other sources but with £3 p&p I think they are taking the pi**. Can anyone help obviously for beer tokens? Thankyou.John C.
Thanks Andy, scrapy is my next port of call. However not now the primary problem, one step forward and all that. Thought I'd put some coolant in, well, it went in and came out just as fast. Well enough to stop progress. Options please to source a replacement? Ford unit perhaps? This project seems to have grown arms, legs and heads. Cheers, not os happy John C.
Not a clue Ziga. One thing, the bloo*y mounting holes did line up. Don't know if a Granada one is compatable but rebuild might be the only option. Another problem which raised it's head was the fuel/ignition pump relay. Big purple bu**er. Swapped with a another relay and pump runs. Yet another glitch. Is the relay a 59164 compatable? Sorry about the queries Ziga. Life with a TVR I guess. John C.
What I (think I) know ....
Purple relay - only switches pump on when it gets a spark, and stays on for about 2 secs after that. Can replace with std relay for testing - not safe in case of collision etc. Again these were used in a few Fords with injection, on Escorts and Orions, as well as Capri. I think they are all the same, not sure.
Rad - I think the rad is a TVR 'cut down' job. It may be a 2.3 or 2.0 Granny rad. I know that TVR one is shorter than a 2.8 Granny because I tried one. 2.8 is too tall, the rad lower outlet makes it impossible to fit a rubber pipe, and fouls the rack. I think early 2.0/2.3 had a shorter rad, later ones used same as 2.8 with different rubber roses.
My rad is same width as Granny and same header/end tanks, but shorter core, and side pieces (and hence mounting holes) are just soldered on, and also look like cut down original 2.8 ones.
If you're really stuck, the 2.3 Cortina rad is a lot smaller, but will need adaptor brackets, although does work OK, have used this in 2.8 kit cars and it's up to the job, with a leccy fan. Here in NZ, some of the later crossflow ally/plastic ones would fit, e.g. tried a Commodore one - about right but would need to research which hoses ! So there's probably a few that will go in. (scrappers again, with tape measure ! )
A good radiator place should be able to sort out the rad, but it's more dosh.
NB. if it's leaking out back of engine block (between engine and gearbox) there is a core plug (frost plug) there, right at back, and it tends to rust through. Bugger though - have to take the gearbox off, clutch/flywheel off to get to it.....
Purple relay - only switches pump on when it gets a spark, and stays on for about 2 secs after that. Can replace with std relay for testing - not safe in case of collision etc. Again these were used in a few Fords with injection, on Escorts and Orions, as well as Capri. I think they are all the same, not sure.
Rad - I think the rad is a TVR 'cut down' job. It may be a 2.3 or 2.0 Granny rad. I know that TVR one is shorter than a 2.8 Granny because I tried one. 2.8 is too tall, the rad lower outlet makes it impossible to fit a rubber pipe, and fouls the rack. I think early 2.0/2.3 had a shorter rad, later ones used same as 2.8 with different rubber roses.
My rad is same width as Granny and same header/end tanks, but shorter core, and side pieces (and hence mounting holes) are just soldered on, and also look like cut down original 2.8 ones.
If you're really stuck, the 2.3 Cortina rad is a lot smaller, but will need adaptor brackets, although does work OK, have used this in 2.8 kit cars and it's up to the job, with a leccy fan. Here in NZ, some of the later crossflow ally/plastic ones would fit, e.g. tried a Commodore one - about right but would need to research which hoses ! So there's probably a few that will go in. (scrappers again, with tape measure ! )
A good radiator place should be able to sort out the rad, but it's more dosh.
NB. if it's leaking out back of engine block (between engine and gearbox) there is a core plug (frost plug) there, right at back, and it tends to rust through. Bugger though - have to take the gearbox off, clutch/flywheel off to get to it.....
Too profound. a statement for this time in the morning Ziga. If the parts. I've got left over; would I even know they were missing?? This project is taking my life over, can't sleep, drinking more beer and doing more oil changes than I've done in the last year. Or rather milking the beast, as that's what is still draining out. Fotunately I have supply of oil from work. If there was water in the system I'd now exactly what I was facing, head gasket. The only conclusion is the engine build lub' I used. Still oil pressure is great on the brief firing up. I look forward to more profound wisdom Ziga. CheersJohn C.
John042 said:
I look forward to more profound wisdom Ziga.
My old dad told me once that if you take something apart and put it back together and there are no bits left over then you have done it right...I always wondered as a kid where all the jam jars full of nuts, Bolts and washers came from...Creamy oil is not good...Wasn't the engine rebuilt?...Not sure if lube would make the oil creamy...If it has been rebuilt doesn't it need running in oil?.....
Hi Ziga. I think I've solved the milky oil problem in that it has mixed with a rust/water inhibitor oil (ZX54) I sprayed into the cylinder walls. Another oil change yesterday improved the situation so in to work Tuesday to dump the waste oil and replenish my stocks. Two problem came to light whilst running the beast, one, a leaking rad' and a fuel pump relay (replaced with an ordinary relay for now) That's not to mention the heavy handed git, ME, breaking a union off the mounting plate for the warm up regulator. Hope my welders at work can sort it! Seems to run OK with the two pipes joined together? Obviously the sensor will not be getting the conducted heat from the water mounting plate? It seem to run quite smoothly starting on the key with no throttle but if the rpm is raised it settles back and then stops. Not a big problem at the moment as water leaks and oil situation will take priority. Cheers Zia. John C.
Hi mate...Well thats good to hear...The warm up plate is snot really needed in the summer months but more so for the winter...Mine was like that initially as the little 9mm out snapped off prior to me owning it...I was lucky to find another...A good alloy welder should be able to sort it...Are you saying that the revs drop and the engine dies when you open the throttle?...Could be timing...Metering head flap...But yeah sort out the other bits first....You are making progress....Good stuff.......Ziga
Cheers Ziga thanks for the encouragement., all problems can eventually overcome. So says he with aptitude of a tame gorilla. Or at least patience. Got to excited with the voice of "Wesley" Still onwards and upwards Ziga, lots of bits to source, relays, radiator repairs etc. Hopefully when I get to re-commissioning the rest of the car, brakes etc, that's original?? I've even got with my purchase new shocks!! Knowing my luck and past events they're. from a 1935 MG TC. Heh Ho life with a TVR. Cheers J C.
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