Camshaft Camshaft Camshaft

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

rev-erend said:

Or get some kenne bell adjustable roller rockers. Yella terra also sell them. Not cheap though.

Yea but your starting to get into the $1000's price bracket then.

[Transmitter Man]

Do Kenne Bell still manufacture these as all they have on their website is superchargers: http://www.kennebell.net/

Yella Terra's: http://store.yellaterra.com.au/categories/roller-r...

TA Performance: http://www.taperformance.com/PDF/TAPerformance_Cat... Page 52

Phil
420 SEAC

[rev-erend]

Don't think you can buy new KB's any more but they pop up now and again on ebay.

[TVRTRICEY]

Initialy I wasn't planning to get on the car to do the camshaft, but I started stripping today (only a few bits)



You can just make out the double valve springs!

[Number 7]

Carbon trumpets as well. They look to be quite tapered. Can you tell of the trumpet base has been opened out from the standard 38mm?

[TVRTRICEY]

The receipt I have in the file is for 'ACT super flare' trumpets, il have to get back to you on that! haven't had time to keep stripping tonight so maybe more tomorrow!

Does anyone else agree on the valve springs being double? I read somewhere that some heads have an inner and outer spring so i may be wrong.

Tricey

[KKson]

TVRTRICEY said:

Does anyone else agree on the valve springs being double? I read somewhere that some heads have an inner and outer spring so i may be wrong.

Tricey

Looks the same as my 390SE which has the same inner and outer double springs.

One question but for the camshaft and followers replacement do the heads need to come off or is it just the inlet manifold that needs removing?

Thanks.

Edited by KKson on Monday 14th September 22:38

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

You DONT need to remove the heads to change camshaft or followers.

[SteveBikeandAuto]

Hi

Just to confirm the camshaft can be changed in situ, I changed mine at the start of the year. As Ziga said, if you remove the side engine mounting bolts, you can jack up the engine just enough for the camshaft to clear the bulk head. hardest part was undoing the crank bolt to remove the front cover.

Steve

[The Hatter]

Looks like you may have something special camshaft wise already; My '86 350i has single valve springs but the breathed on 420 has twin springs. I'd pull the current cam and look for any markings before buying a replacement. This is a Kent Cams H234.



I put a Rimmers std cam in my 350i and had to replace it again 2 years later despite deburring/camlube/running in/oil change... if you're doing the labour yourself it's not such a big deal but if you're paying labour then get a good cam!

[KKson]

Anyone running a John Eales JE101 (now renamed as JED2665) camshaft. I'm told that's what the JE engined 390SE's ran originally. Looks like I'll need to replace mine - any recommendations or stick with e replacement JE101? TVR Power recommend their 218 as an alternative.

[Transmitter Man]

Some further options for the 350's or above although I don't know how these prices compare:

http://www.crower.com/camshafts/buick/215-300-340....

or they offer custom cams. Just fill in the form: https://www.crower.com/index.php/forms/camshaft/

Phil
420 SEAC

Edited by Transmitter Man on Wednesday 16th September 05:38

[TVRTRICEY]

Hopefully I'll get some time tonight or tomorrow evening to make some progress! If I'm honest the Viper series of Cams are taking my fancy from RealSteel. The look Good value and I have heard good things about them. I'll find out what I have in hopefully very soon.

Yes I will be doing the cam myself so with the saving of garage costs I may as well spend the balance on a better cam!

Tricey

[adam quantrill]

While you are looking at these different manufacturers please keep an eye out for blower cams (they have little overlap between exhaust/inlet) as I would like to get one "in stock" for when mine eventually goes. It's doing pretty well at 74k.

[rev-erend]

This is a useful kent cams table

http://www.wolfitt.com/kentcamdata.htm

[carsy]

adam quantrill said:

While you are looking at these different manufacturers please keep an eye out for blower cams (they have little overlap between exhaust/inlet) as I would like to get one "in stock" for when mine eventually goes. It's doing pretty well at 74k.

Real steel do a blower cam.

[TVRTRICEY]

Evening all, been a while since I've had time to get on the car! In the last few weeks I've been moving out of my Mondeo (the reliable beast) and have stupidly bought a gas guzzling 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro 20V. HA

Well I've managed to get into the bugger:


You will find it difficult to see, but the lobe on the Inlet for Cylinder number 1 is no longer a lobe:


Going to plod on this evening and remove as much as I can, Cam out being the ultimate goal.

Does anyone know how the cam is fed with Oil? It's not obvious to me so would be great to know if someone can enlighten me!

Tricey

[KKson]

It was number 1 cylinder exhaust lobe that is completely missing on mine. Likewise I'd be interesting to know how the lobes are lubricated. Strange that on both engines it's the front lobes that have worn.

[TVRTRICEY]

Yeah, what a coincidence, Mine was still showing compression at 120 Psi, with rest at about 140.
Just managed to remove the rockers and push rods but cant remove any of the followers as they are bell shaped so will have to be removed from underneath when I remove the Cam. Hoping I'll get a chance tomorrow! Shows that the cam and followers are obviously due a change. the old 70-80K miles seems to be making an accurate measurement of mine at 81K!

What cam have you gone for in yours?

Noticed on top of the followers a small thin channel that looks like that might be where the oil trickles through to lube the cam lobes. Don't quote me, but thats my theory so far!

Tricey.

[adam quantrill]

The lobes are lubricated by trickle down from the valley. The rockers are fed with oil, this drips out the sides, then through the holes the pushrods go though, and down onto the cam.

in my case I had a little dam formed with some broken-up valve stem seal in the 'V' above number 8 exhaust valve, the dripping stopped, and that lobe wore out.

To get the cam lubesd you need to get the revs up to 1500-ish pretty quickly after starting from cold, I try and keep the revs in this band for the first mile or two.