Camshaft Camshaft Camshaft

[carsy]

Cam will get its oil feed primarily from the oil gallery that supplies the lifters. The lifters as well as getting pressurised from the oil gallery will also get smothered in oil externally as they rotate in their housing. This oil will then drip down onto the cam providing the lubrication.

[KKson]

TVRTRICEY said:

What cam have you gone for in yours?

I've gone for the V8 Developments "Stealth" camshaft. £440 all inclusive for full kit with followers, gaskets, and duplex chain set. It's being fitted this week so fingers crossed for the weekend.

[Transmitter Man]

For others that may be interested.

I've purchased in the past a ton of gear from this wellknown outlet and had the gear here in around a week.

Still works out a fair bit less expensive with import costs than purchasing in the UK.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/camsh...

Spec on the left prices on the right.

Phil
420 SEAC

[Sardonicus]

carsy said:

Cam will get its oil feed primarily from the oil gallery that supplies the lifters. The lifters as well as getting pressurised from the oil gallery will also get smothered in oil externally as they rotate in their housing. This oil will then drip down onto the cam providing the lubrication.

What he said ^ and just to add ...... there is no magic mileage for failure there are just too many variables my 4.0 HC cam made it to 125k with early break through of the hardening (pitting and slight rounding) on 3 lobes only all original engine with no previous repairs apart from rocker cover gaskets during its life, this decline came on fast I could feel the car was no longer so rev hungry anymore I ended up doing a full make over of the motor but thats another story

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

1. 1 is the most common to fail, esp if left for long periods on idle and you have 850 or lower idle as this is just not enough to supply oil to the back of the cam.

That why I always say run them about 1000 rpm and have a friendly mot station or just adjust for mot.

[Barkychoc]

When I replaced my cam a few years back I remember finding a tool in Real Steel that would put a small score in the hydraulic tappet bore from the oil feed jacket around the side of the tappet to the bottom of the bore. You create the score on the tappet bore side so it drips oil onto the leading edge of the cam if that makes sense.
It was actually a chevy tool but after a lot of head scratching and comparing diameters I figured it would work on the Rover V8 (same diameter tappet).

In the end I didn't have the balls to do it and the tool wasn't particularly cheap - I've looked on Real Steal again and can't find it - I'm pretty sure they did 3 different tools for different diameter tappets but it was a few years back.

Could be work a call to Real Steel if anyone wanted to pursue it further.

[Sardonicus]

Barkychoc said:

When I replaced my cam a few years back I remember finding a tool in Real Steel that would put a small score in the hydraulic tappet bore from the oil feed jacket around the side of the tappet to the bottom of the bore. You create the score on the tappet bore side so it drips oil onto the leading edge of the cam if that makes sense.
It was actually a chevy tool but after a lot of head scratching and comparing diameters I figured it would work on the Rover V8 (same diameter tappet).

In the end I didn't have the balls to do it and the tool wasn't particularly cheap - I've looked on Real Steal again and can't find it - I'm pretty sure they did 3 different tools for different diameter tappets but it was a few years back.

Could be work a call to Real Steel if anyone wanted to pursue it further.

Yep seen that tool at Summit's or similar there is also a USA lifter manufacturer that puts a tiny pin hole for lubing in the centre face of the lifter, I still think the whole RV8 cam failure thing is blown a bit out of proportion if you make sure you dont let the car idle from cold to warm up in other words start up and drive off (its not a formula one engine) and if laid up over winter dont keep cranking it over or firing it up for little blips of the throttle to show how loud the exhaust is etc use an appropriate oil & changed regularly you will get a decent service life from both cam and lifter

[rev-erend]

What do you mean it's not a formula 1 engine.

It was (well sort of.. ) was used by Repco Brabham and was also used very successfully in CanAm racing by McLaren and Brabham if my memory serves me right.

[Sardonicus]

rev-erend said:

What do you mean it's not a formula 1 engine.

It was (well sort of.. ) was used by Repco Brabham and was also used very successfully in CanAm racing by McLaren and Brabham if my memory serves me right.

In the tune/tunes they are in in our cars I will stick by my last comment at approx 70hp per liter for a well modded one is hardly going to set the world on fire is it? dont get me wrong I like the RV8 along with the Ford 3.0 Essex they have character

Edited by Sardonicus on Wednesday 30th September 14:09

[rev-erend]

Very true.

Mine has nearer 80bhp / litre and a silly lift cam (M256) with scary lift.

Hoping to get it fired up very soon.

[Sardonicus]

Y

rev-erend said:

Very true.

Mine has nearer 80bhp / litre and a silly lift cam (M256) with scary lift.

Hoping to get it fired up very soon.

Keep us posted Rev

[Transmitter Man]

Sardonicus said:

ep seen that tool at Summit's or similar there is also a USA lifter manufacturer that puts a tiny pin hole for lubing in the centre face of the lifter, I still think the whole RV8 cam failure thing is blown a bit out of proportion if you make sure you dont let the car idle from cold to warm up in other words start up and drive off (its not a formula one engine) and if laid up over winter dont keep cranking it over or firing it up for little blips of the throttle to show how loud the exhaust is etc use an appropriate oil & changed regularly you will get a decent service life from both cam and lifter

Were you thinking of Rhoads: http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/index.html

Phil
420 SEAC

[Sardonicus]

Transmitter Man said:

Were you thinking of Rhoads: http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/index.html

Phil
420 SEAC

Hi Phil no it was Comp Cams but am sure others do too, how effective it is well ....

[TVRTRICEY]

This thread has some good input!

Managed to get the Pulley off but we're struggling to get the front cover off, looks like we've got all the bolts out including the two sump bolts. Any secret ones? It looks like its never been off! or not for a long long time. The right hand side (when looking at the front of the engine) seems to have broken away but the left is stuck fast.

Any hints would be great.

Tricey

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Try looking at some pictures of front covers to check you have removed all the bolts.
I think there are 3 sump bolts ones you need to remove.

[adam quantrill]

When you find the last bolt if it doesn't crack easily don't force it, put the other bolts back in to reasonable torque first then try again.

Also a bit of heat from a welding torch works wonders with these steel bolts into the aly block.

[TVRTRICEY]

Cheers,

Found the last one, it was covered in stuff so didn't see it! Cam will nearly come out but were going to have to slacken the engine mounts and just drop in half and inch to pull it out. Should then clear the bulkhead and give us decent space to replace with the new one.

In regards to oil change during the job. We're thinking we'll change it now, as the sump gasket is ruined and with a lobe warn off theres probable some swarf in the engine. Would it be advisable to changing the oil again after its run in? thinking of using some 'carlube' stuff to run the cam in and then buy decent stuff after. 20w50?

Tricey

[rev-erend]

I use millers CRO (running in oil) for about 500 miles then switch to a better 20/50 oil.

[TVRTRICEY]

Ok will look into that.
The cam is out! here are some pics, Lobe 3 wasn't far off going the same way:

[TVRTRICEY]