Holy smoking UJ batman!
Discussion
Do I'm back on the road ish.
I took her out for a quick spin today, just round the village to test everything.
When I stopped there was smoke coming from the back of the car. On closer inspection It looked like the grease on the driveshaft UJ was boiling!
I was pumping the brakes quite a bit to get the surface rust off the discs.
Has anyone seen this happen before?
I took her out for a quick spin today, just round the village to test everything.
When I stopped there was smoke coming from the back of the car. On closer inspection It looked like the grease on the driveshaft UJ was boiling!
I was pumping the brakes quite a bit to get the surface rust off the discs.
Has anyone seen this happen before?
wedgemaniac456 said:
Hi Stephen, if the brakes are binding they will get very hot.Mine boiled the brake fluid scary and lost the brakes 
.Maybe yours are binding on the one side and have got very hot.
Oh crap that's a bit scary! I shall investigate the brakes so. .Maybe yours are binding on the one side and have got very hot. Number 7 I've no idea why the exhaust is that way, was like that when I got the car. Did all wedge pipes go over?
Cant remember how my 280 pipes went, but my 350 and 400 pipes certainly go over rather than under. I thought only the SEAC exhaust went under (of the V8 models anyway).
As said, check the brakes for binding when you jack it up. I'd also take the opportunity to clean all of the grease and dirt from all of the ujs, and give them all a fresh helping with the grease gun - there should be nipples on the joints.Pump it in until it just starts to come past the seals, and wipe off.
As said, check the brakes for binding when you jack it up. I'd also take the opportunity to clean all of the grease and dirt from all of the ujs, and give them all a fresh helping with the grease gun - there should be nipples on the joints.Pump it in until it just starts to come past the seals, and wipe off.
Rear Brakes are quite common to bind esp if car has not been used for a while, esp if you fit new pads, as then your be using a part of the piston that's been exposed and maybe pitted.
Lots of people fit nylocs and not all metal lock nut's and these can really smoke also when the brakes get hot. I've cooked my UJ also on a track day. esp as I did not do any cool down laps. always worth doing at least 1 cool down lap, as everything will seem fine while you got a lot of air flow, but if you come in hot. the heat soak will build up a lot when stopped. did the same at Le-Mans after a hoon and then parked up on the grass, nearly set fire to the grass due to heat soak.
Lots of people fit nylocs and not all metal lock nut's and these can really smoke also when the brakes get hot. I've cooked my UJ also on a track day. esp as I did not do any cool down laps. always worth doing at least 1 cool down lap, as everything will seem fine while you got a lot of air flow, but if you come in hot. the heat soak will build up a lot when stopped. did the same at Le-Mans after a hoon and then parked up on the grass, nearly set fire to the grass due to heat soak.
well it could be handbrake pads too.
Easiest is to jack up hte back and take a look (rotate each wheel with handbrake off, then on a little bit).
If it starts grabbing then undo that side adjuster a little bit.
Then if that doesn't cure it, go for the main pads next. Sometimes you get crud buildup around the pad/caliper slot which makes them bind so chisel that out with a screwdriver. Push the pads back in on that side. Then press the brake pedal to reseat them.
Then take it for another drive and see if the problem is cured.
Only after that get stuck in with dismantling etc - as it's a right pain in the arris getting that stuff off (and back on).
Easiest is to jack up hte back and take a look (rotate each wheel with handbrake off, then on a little bit).
If it starts grabbing then undo that side adjuster a little bit.
Then if that doesn't cure it, go for the main pads next. Sometimes you get crud buildup around the pad/caliper slot which makes them bind so chisel that out with a screwdriver. Push the pads back in on that side. Then press the brake pedal to reseat them.
Then take it for another drive and see if the problem is cured.
Only after that get stuck in with dismantling etc - as it's a right pain in the arris getting that stuff off (and back on).
- ALWAYS ** after fiddling with the brake pads then press the brake pedal hard before setting off again, and make sure it isn't spongy.
I replaced the rear calipers while the car was up on ramps and the biggest problem I had was getting the crossover (the diff) brake-line off - everything was in the way. I finally semi-stripped one nut and then cut the damn thing then wished I hadn't because I couldn't get the parts and flare locally and had to order a Jag part. (I tried both a brake wrench and a regular one.)
The actual calipers weren't to bad once I rigged a light and inspection mirror. I bought a wire twisting plier set and it worked great for replacing the safety wire. Grady
The actual calipers weren't to bad once I rigged a light and inspection mirror. I bought a wire twisting plier set and it worked great for replacing the safety wire. Grady
Edited by Grady on Wednesday 7th October 14:58
marcus1875 said:
Number 7 said:
How come the exhaust is below the driveshaft, rather than above it?
My exhausts are the same, below the shafts. Makes interesting clearance levels as i found out last weekend, the elephant had the same issues.marcus
The handbrake on it as I remember is very good, perhaps its a bit TOO good!
Stu
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