Replacement rear stay/tie bar
Discussion
Gents,
Managed to snap the stay/tie bar (the adjustable bar that runs from the chassis to the bottom wishbone).
Annoyingly it has snapped at the thread, so no chance of welding it up.
Any ideas where to source a replacement? EBay isn't throwing up anything (assuming I'm call it the correct thing...).
Cheers
Managed to snap the stay/tie bar (the adjustable bar that runs from the chassis to the bottom wishbone).
Annoyingly it has snapped at the thread, so no chance of welding it up.
Any ideas where to source a replacement? EBay isn't throwing up anything (assuming I'm call it the correct thing...).
Cheers
It's a square section rod with rod-ends. Steve Heath (he of the Bible)used to make and sell various TVR parts, that being one. Hasn't been doing that for a few years now though, so very unlikely that you'd find any new ones anywhere.
Your best bet will be to hope that someone still has one of the originals after replacing with the SH versions. I'd hesitate to say check with breakers, as I suspect they may be pricey.
Your best bet will be to hope that someone still has one of the originals after replacing with the SH versions. I'd hesitate to say check with breakers, as I suspect they may be pricey.
Edited by Number 7 on Friday 9th October 08:31
hallsie said:
Barrington made some up using rose joints and inserts purchased from Mcgill motorsport.
Stu
Mcgill rose joints are cheap-ish but they are good quality as they make them not import from china.Stu
Anyone got a some pictures of the SH ones as should make it easier to copy using MCgill stuff.
Found my thread with my busted tie bar picture.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Beware of making the tie bar or rear wishbone connections too rigid.
I broke a tie bar after hitting a deep pothole. It was subsequently re-welded successfully.
I had hard bushes all round in the rear suspension at the time.
As the rear hub unit moves up and down there is an incompatibility in the geometry of the movement of the wishbone and that of the tie bar. Ie the rear end of the tie bar and the outer end of the lower wishbone move in different arcs.
This needs the bushes to have a little flexibility to compensate for the differing arcs to avoid over stressing something
I ended up with hard poly-bushes in the wishbones and rubber bushes in the ends of the tie bar.
This has worked well for many years.
You could make the tie bar bushes harder and use softer wishbone bushes but I feel the way I went gives better rear suspension control.
Rgds
Hamish
I broke a tie bar after hitting a deep pothole. It was subsequently re-welded successfully.
I had hard bushes all round in the rear suspension at the time.
As the rear hub unit moves up and down there is an incompatibility in the geometry of the movement of the wishbone and that of the tie bar. Ie the rear end of the tie bar and the outer end of the lower wishbone move in different arcs.
This needs the bushes to have a little flexibility to compensate for the differing arcs to avoid over stressing something
I ended up with hard poly-bushes in the wishbones and rubber bushes in the ends of the tie bar.
This has worked well for many years.
You could make the tie bar bushes harder and use softer wishbone bushes but I feel the way I went gives better rear suspension control.
Rgds
Hamish
Forgot to add:
When you fit the tie bar have the weight on the rear suspension. (Ie the hub sitting in the normal "mid" position of its arc of movement), then adjust the tie bar length to fit.
This results in the rubber bushes in the tie bar being uncompressed in the normal running position.
When you fit the tie bar have the weight on the rear suspension. (Ie the hub sitting in the normal "mid" position of its arc of movement), then adjust the tie bar length to fit.
This results in the rubber bushes in the tie bar being uncompressed in the normal running position.
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