Wheel Help Needed: Offset for 16x8"? Center bore?

[JamesMK]

63.5 it is. Thanks for clarifying.

Number 7 said:

James, when I had some rings made up for the 400, they were 63.5 to 66.5 - based on my measurements of the actual parts in question. To answer your question, I did not even realise that my wheels were larger bore than the hub for quite a while - years in fact - as only some of the OZ rims I had were slightly larger bore for some reason. Fractions of a mm wont make any difference, but if you're going to get some made, measure your own car. BTW, 63.5mm equates to 2.5", so that is the correct size.

[TA14]

JamesMK said:

63.5 it is. Thanks for clarifying.

That's probably the answer but if you're going to the trouble of making rings or drilling a wheel it's worth measuring your car. The point of an extra 0.2mm or whatever is to avoid an interference fit which would put undue stress on the wheel and load the stub axle.

[adam quantrill]

TA14 said:

adam quantrill said:

Assuming the nuts never, ever, get loose. Ever.

That's generally how I like my cars to be. Here's a challenge for you - I'll drive a car where the nuts haven't be torqued up properly and you drive one where there are no nuts, bolts or studs and your wheel just rests on the (tapered) centrebore and we'll see who gets the furthest.

I said loose, not completely off.

When they are loose the bore (if fitted) will keep the wheel from rattling too much but it will shimmy side-side. Not much damage done and still controllable before you can stop.

If no bore fit, the wheel will rattle about much worse and will fall off before you realise it and can stop to tighten them up.

[TA14]

adam quantrill said:

TA14 said:

adam quantrill said:

Assuming the nuts never, ever, get loose. Ever.

That's generally how I like my cars to be. Here's a challenge for you - I'll drive a car where the nuts haven't be torqued up properly and you drive one where there are no nuts, bolts or studs and your wheel just rests on the (tapered) centrebore and we'll see who gets the furthest.

I said loose, not completely off.

When they are loose the bore (if fitted) will keep the wheel from rattling too much but it will shimmy side-side. Not much damage done and still controllable before you can stop.

If no bore fit, the wheel will rattle about much worse and will fall off before you realise it and can stop to tighten them up.

Wow, six years

[adam quantrill]

Back at yer! Well I wasn't going to let that one lie :-)

[Wedgehead]

Hi. I too need assistance. I will check the wheel bore size but………I have stumbled across a set of 17”x8 bbs wheels with a et of 20. I’ll double check the bore but can I make these wheels work? Thanks for the input! 280i wedge

[adam quantrill]

If the centre bore is bigger then yes, you can just fit spigot rings. [thanks TA14!]

If you need spacers too, you can have some made up with different bores to match each side.

Edited by adam quantrill on Tuesday 2nd November 08:19

[TA14]

adam quantrill said:

If the ET is bigger then yes, you can just fit spigot rings.

I think you mean: if the centrebore is bigger then yes, you can just fit spigot rings.

[TA14]

Wedgehead said:

Hi. I too need assistance. I will check the wheel bore size but………I have stumbled across a set of 17”x8 bbs wheels with a et of 20. I’ll double check the bore but can I make these wheels work? Thanks for the input! 280i wedge

Hi Wedgehead. I can't remember the wheel and tyre sizes for the 280. What's the offset? You need to watch for tyre rubbing on the inner wheel arch; TVR changed the body shape so many times that it's hard to say.

Was your tyre size 195/60/14? If so, changing to a 225/35/17, the rolling rad would be OK but you'd have 15mm extra rubber on either side, less the 3mm change in offset (if that's 23mm originally like the 350i) so that's 12mm which you could reduce to 7mm with a 5mm spacer but you'd still need to check. The guys racing the 280i cars would be good to speak to.

[Wedgehead]

Thanks for your input!