KOX972W - FHC+2
Discussion
Fantastic, always good to see a +2 getting some tlc, a fine choice! The interior looks in great condition, your gauges are the same SW ones as my +2.
I've just spent ages looking through all your photos, which is making me feel very guilty about mine, currently having a long holiday from duty in the garage!
I've just spent ages looking through all your photos, which is making me feel very guilty about mine, currently having a long holiday from duty in the garage!
Hi all.
It turned out that the sills were rivetted on, so I drilled them out and had a poke at the outriggers. Pictures here.
I also took the paint off the rear screen - carefully! not to touch the paint - using acetone. Made a massive difference to the look of the car.
Haven't had time to poke the paintwork with clay bar, alcohol or petrol yet; maybe tomorrow.
Addendum: please can somebody give me the lengths & diameters of the fuel pipes I will need to replace the whole lot? (I thought I saw a post here that had the list, but I can't find it; the filler is 51mm, but how long on each side?).
It turned out that the sills were rivetted on, so I drilled them out and had a poke at the outriggers. Pictures here.
I also took the paint off the rear screen - carefully! not to touch the paint - using acetone. Made a massive difference to the look of the car.
Haven't had time to poke the paintwork with clay bar, alcohol or petrol yet; maybe tomorrow.Addendum: please can somebody give me the lengths & diameters of the fuel pipes I will need to replace the whole lot? (I thought I saw a post here that had the list, but I can't find it; the filler is 51mm, but how long on each side?).
Edited by TimLux on Monday 8th February 20:42
Tasmin200 said:
Lot's of first class info here:
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p5.htm
Thanks. http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p5.htm
The results of the "what cleans up the car best" competition are in, and the winner is... petrol. The clay bar does take it off, but it's still a slow process. A wipe with petrol and then a scrub/wipe off shortly after is a far more efficient way to go.
Petrol used on the left side, then left a piece, then a clar-barred strip on the right.
As you can see from the picture, it's made huge difference, so I'll be doing the rest of the car soon. I'll have to follow up with a proper polish some time.
Looks lovely...Must of been paint dust after all...Be sure to wash the petrol off with warm soapy water and TBH i would get some polish/Wax on it afterwards...Don't worry about buffing it afterwards though, Leave the wax on for a day or two then polish..Not hard buffing though..Then repeat ...Cheers...Ziga
Hi all.
I have been poking the engine. It refused to idle so I started by looking at the idle control system. So far:
I have been poking the engine. It refused to idle so I started by looking at the idle control system. So far:
- the cold start valve and warm-up-regulator were getting 0 volts - I cut apart a supicious looking bundle in the wiring to find a bunch of dodgy connectors, which I cut out and replaced with soldered wiring and heat-shrink around it... to end up with +2 volts. Dug back through the connectors and one was so bad I took a file and then contact cleaner to it. 12v now... so it idles much better, but at ~2000 rpm.
- Cold start valve: clamping the hose while idling drops the engine speed significantly, so significantly in fact that it stalls. :/ I took it off, cleaned it with carb cleaner and it still doesn't move with temperature (poking it from inside with a screwdriver it moves pretty freely).
- any recommended (preferably relatively cheap) supplier for the valve?
- where is the cold start valve supposed to mount? Mine flops unsecured around at the front of the engine.
- same question for the fuel filter. There's a (very) small one inline right at the front near the metering head - the fuel in it looked fine. The fuel lines go straight down from the front of the metering head, along the chassis, and to the pump/accumulator... there's no other filter inline. I bought the one on the parts page before I knew I didn't have one ;(
- my fuel pump comes on with the ignition; I saw to clean the connector on the metering head, and that looks alright... but the fuel pump is still on?
Hi Tim...I may have a working AAD that you can have...The cold start valve/7th injector goes to the plenum on the O/S...There should be an opening that it fits to if you marry them up...Should be a fairly thin gasket on the valve if not they can be bought.
You can see the blue plug above the rocker cover
The pump should only run on position 1 if the plug on the metering head is unplugged and all other times on cranking...Although this could be the way it was set up?
There should be a large bulkhead filter next to the metering unit...
Seen here under the cold air intake
Hope this helps
Ziga
You can see the blue plug above the rocker cover
The pump should only run on position 1 if the plug on the metering head is unplugged and all other times on cranking...Although this could be the way it was set up?
There should be a large bulkhead filter next to the metering unit...
Seen here under the cold air intake
Hope this helps
Ziga
Hello Ziga,
sorry, I think I'm mixing my terminology somewhere. It's the AAD that's flopping all over the place (the bit that's knackered). I haven't yet had to poke the cold start injector, other than to spray its connector with contact spray; I haven't checked for any there voltage yet.
As for the fuel filter, the cupboard is bare - the fuel lines go down the front and along instead of along then down... and in fact a few other things are in different places to yours, it seems.
A friend is going to lend me a different type of AAD for me to try for a while to see if I can work out any other kinks. Thanks for the AAD offer - if you don't need it as a spare then chuck me a message and let me know what you're after for it.
sorry, I think I'm mixing my terminology somewhere. It's the AAD that's flopping all over the place (the bit that's knackered). I haven't yet had to poke the cold start injector, other than to spray its connector with contact spray; I haven't checked for any there voltage yet.
As for the fuel filter, the cupboard is bare - the fuel lines go down the front and along instead of along then down... and in fact a few other things are in different places to yours, it seems.
A friend is going to lend me a different type of AAD for me to try for a while to see if I can work out any other kinks. Thanks for the AAD offer - if you don't need it as a spare then chuck me a message and let me know what you're after for it.
Hi Tim...If you look on the first pic i posted up you will just about see the AAD...Just to the left of the power steering pump red lid...It should bolt onto the plate that is on the front of the plenum as this aids the heating up of the unit...As said if you need mine you are welcome to have it..A small donation to the BBWF fund is sufficient....Cheers...Ziga
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Tim...If you look on the first pic i posted up you will just about see the AAD...Just to the left of the power steering pump red lid...It should bolt onto the plate that is on the front of the plenum as this aids the heating up of the unit...As said if you need mine you are welcome to have it..A small donation to the BBWF fund is sufficient....Cheers...Ziga
Hi Ziga - thanks again for the offer, which I'll gladly take you up on if the below makes sense 
. I'll contact you via PM later.For now though, I'm hoping you can help with a bit of a mystery. I mentioned that a friend might be able to lend me one, and it turns out that it's exactly the same part reference as mine. And cold... it's closed, just like mine. So I went looking around, part number "0280 140 516" and found quotes like this:
Bosch 0280 140 516
•Shape: inlet at 90 deg to outlet, cast body
•Length: 124 mm
•Position unpowered: closed, spring loaded
•Connections: two pins. Will open when applying dc, nice linear response in the range 1 to 9V, 1A at 9V (open)
So it starts off closed and powering it will open it. That sounds rather backwards because squeezing the pipe - i.e. blocking the airflow - drops the idle to a sensible level, so surely I want one that starts open to get more fuel through when it's cold, and then closes with heat when the extra fuel isn't required... at this point I assume it's either the wrong part or something else that I'm missing is going to cut off the voltage to the valve (and the WUR) when something else is "hot enough". Confused. Help?! :S
Hi Tim...The AAD is actually open to start with as it helps to provide more air to balance out the extra fuel...As the engine warms up it too warms up and closes.
You can test the operation with a heat gun or hair dryer...When cold there should be a half moon opening which will gradually close as it warms up...You can heat it gently to see this and then you can put it in the fridge and see it open up again.
Hope this helps....Ziga
You can test the operation with a heat gun or hair dryer...When cold there should be a half moon opening which will gradually close as it warms up...You can heat it gently to see this and then you can put it in the fridge and see it open up again.
Hope this helps....Ziga
Next photo album here. A friend lent me a Jag AAD as it's closer to what I need than the one that was on my car. After cleaning the dizzy, because spark testers showed it wasn't getting sparks in the right place at the right time either, it now idles nicely and at a proper speed! It also revs when I hit the throttle rather than dying like it used to.
The new problem is that after I rev it, when the revs come back down it stalls... and won't idle after that without throttle applied either. Harrumph.
The new problem is that after I rev it, when the revs come back down it stalls... and won't idle after that without throttle applied either. Harrumph.
TimLux said:
The new problem is that after I rev it, when the revs come back down it stalls... and won't idle after that without throttle applied either. Harrumph.
Hi Tim...Sounds like you need to adjust the mixture a tad on the metering head...It shouldn't really need to be adjusted but you never know someone has touched it...There is a long tube sticking up from the metering head unit...It should have tamper proof seal...You will need a long reach 4mm hex drive and turn it clockwise about quarter of an inch...If nothing then 1/2 anti-clockwise...Just be careful not to turn it without remembering where it was initially...Maybe a chalk mark...You should be able to get it so that you can blip the throttle and it should return to idle straight away....Try not to push down or lift up when adjusting...You have to be fairly gentle.Was the AAD any good as I'm still looking for mine...Couldn't get to the garage today...Cheers...Ziga
mrzigazaga said:
Was the AAD any good as I'm still looking for mine...Couldn't get to the garage today...Cheers...Ziga
Hi Ziga. I think the Jag one is quite similar to the original, just with a different mount and the connector in a different place, so it's still flopping about in the engine bay like the wrong-un was. It seems to work as expected, though. There are a couple of likely-looking Ford AADs up on a certain auction site so I'll start there. Hi Tim...I have turned my flat upside down and cannot find it so i will try to get in the garage...Which is being used by a friend and he has engines...Wheels seats..Body panels...In fact probably two whole cars in bits...
I have looked at the ones for sale on fleabay and they are extortionately priced!...If the current one you have which looks the same as the one on the V8 wedges is doing the job then cable tie it to something to stop it flapping about, Even if it mean a longer piece of hose....Far from doing damage to your car if it does decide to come off it could potentially harm someone behind you!...I certainly do have one and as said you can have it for a donation to the charity fund as i would rather it go towards keeping another Wedge on the road than lining my "Empty" pocket...To be fair the one you have is doing exactly the same thing as the ford part...However it needs to be put somewhere where it can heat up fairly quickly...Thats why the original is bolted to the AAD plate...To be honest you can by-pass the AAD which means you will need a bit of throttle to start and hold whilst warming up..Just like a choke.
I would cross that off the "To-Do-List" and move on.....
Cheers...Ziga
I have looked at the ones for sale on fleabay and they are extortionately priced!...If the current one you have which looks the same as the one on the V8 wedges is doing the job then cable tie it to something to stop it flapping about, Even if it mean a longer piece of hose....Far from doing damage to your car if it does decide to come off it could potentially harm someone behind you!...I certainly do have one and as said you can have it for a donation to the charity fund as i would rather it go towards keeping another Wedge on the road than lining my "Empty" pocket...To be fair the one you have is doing exactly the same thing as the ford part...However it needs to be put somewhere where it can heat up fairly quickly...Thats why the original is bolted to the AAD plate...To be honest you can by-pass the AAD which means you will need a bit of throttle to start and hold whilst warming up..Just like a choke.
I would cross that off the "To-Do-List" and move on.....
Cheers...Ziga
i think this car was imported to germany from a friend of mine ...must be 9 years ago or even more.....it was a black tasmin +2, with exhaust above gearbox, blue suede interior....so this should be your car...it cost 1500pound (~2000euro in that time)..and looked not bad (ok....the outtriigers where not the best, but still ok for the MOT)....it was never registered in germany and sold on after a few months driving, for ~3500,-€
Hello Ziga.
The ones on ebay are ~£20 a shot, and for a Ford Capri. I have no part number to look for, so I'm taking a punt. Typically the buy-it-now only appeared after I had somebody place a (thankfully low) bid on the non-buy-it-now one. And I agree - the Jag one I have borrowed should suffice for now to get other things moving along. Speaking of which, I noticed when uploading photos that the fuel accumulator on mine has been bypassed... do you have a part number for a replacement, or can I just leave it bypassed?
Hello GinG15,
that's very likely my car, which was taken to Germany in 2005, particularly if it was in the vicinity of Hannover. If you're still in contact with your friend, then please could you ask him if he has any copies of paperwork for the car? I have the V5 and a "pre-TUV" inspection sheet but nothing else. If he knows where the original wheels got to then that would also be interesting...
The ones on ebay are ~£20 a shot, and for a Ford Capri. I have no part number to look for, so I'm taking a punt. Typically the buy-it-now only appeared after I had somebody place a (thankfully low) bid on the non-buy-it-now one. And I agree - the Jag one I have borrowed should suffice for now to get other things moving along. Speaking of which, I noticed when uploading photos that the fuel accumulator on mine has been bypassed... do you have a part number for a replacement, or can I just leave it bypassed?
Hello GinG15,
that's very likely my car, which was taken to Germany in 2005, particularly if it was in the vicinity of Hannover. If you're still in contact with your friend, then please could you ask him if he has any copies of paperwork for the car? I have the V5 and a "pre-TUV" inspection sheet but nothing else. If he knows where the original wheels got to then that would also be interesting...
Hi Tim...Yes i saw the one for £20...Looks like shyte to be fair...You can buy new accumulators which are around £160 although you can leave it by-passed...It mainly keeps the fuel pressure there for about 20 mins after switching off..With the AAD and the accumulator by-passed the car may be a pig to start from cold & Hot but with a good battery you should be fine...
If you want to buy a new one then i would suggest getting into with Steve at kmi petrol injection...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
He is a very helpful fellow and has years of experience...You can tell him that i recommended you.
He could probably rebuild your old AAD but does sell them as well...Not sure on price though.
Cheers
Ziga
If you want to buy a new one then i would suggest getting into with Steve at kmi petrol injection...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
He is a very helpful fellow and has years of experience...You can tell him that i recommended you.
He could probably rebuild your old AAD but does sell them as well...Not sure on price though.
Cheers
Ziga
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