Nearly didn't have a Wedge.
Discussion
These are quite high currents and you need a fuse to protect the wires rather than the fan.
Also it means that they are hard to measure - not many multimeters go up to 30A.
Giver that the fuse holder is toast anyway I would snip off the wire on the right going to the fan and joint a spare wire onto that which can reach battery +.
Initially use this to run the fan - as a test (best with the engine running). If the wire feels warm and/or the fan runs funny, stop it immediately and order a new fan. If the fan runs fine and the wire is cool, it might be that the fuse caused the problem. You could then wire the fan up temporarily to +, drive to halfrauds, disconnect it, get your bits, reconnect and drive back.
Also it means that they are hard to measure - not many multimeters go up to 30A.
Giver that the fuse holder is toast anyway I would snip off the wire on the right going to the fan and joint a spare wire onto that which can reach battery +.
Initially use this to run the fan - as a test (best with the engine running). If the wire feels warm and/or the fan runs funny, stop it immediately and order a new fan. If the fan runs fine and the wire is cool, it might be that the fuse caused the problem. You could then wire the fan up temporarily to +, drive to halfrauds, disconnect it, get your bits, reconnect and drive back.
If you use voltage drop calculations, see guides on web / You tube, you can measure very high amps with out blowing your meter. your need quite a good meter as the reading will me in milli-volts of you just read of the earth lead.
also do a test with a known source 1st like a bulb, to get the hang of things and to make sure your reading them right.
Also this is a good way of working out if you have any leakage, when ignition is off. and tracing faults. everyone should lean this, who does any DIY on there car.
also do a test with a known source 1st like a bulb, to get the hang of things and to make sure your reading them right.
Also this is a good way of working out if you have any leakage, when ignition is off. and tracing faults. everyone should lean this, who does any DIY on there car.
It must have been 2 years ago I thought my single Davies Craig fan was on the way out as it started squeaking and was stiffer to turn. Knowing you can get new ones for something like £100 without the shroud and no amount of WD40 did anything I took it right apart. I think I had to cut some nuts off so it wasn't easy but eventually I found a load of rust stopping it from spinning properly. After a good service etc it now works great spinning that little bit faster.
On a previous car I had the melted fuse issue on the main fuse block which turned out to be a poor wire to crimp contact on the back of the fuse block. I had to fit a replacement in-line fuse like the melted here and it worked well although it was footwell out of the way of any engine heat.
On a previous car I had the melted fuse issue on the main fuse block which turned out to be a poor wire to crimp contact on the back of the fuse block. I had to fit a replacement in-line fuse like the melted here and it worked well although it was footwell out of the way of any engine heat.
SLB said:
It must have been 2 years ago I thought my single Davies Craig fan was on the way out as it started squeaking and was stiffer to turn. Knowing you can get new ones for something like £100 without the shroud and no amount of WD40 did anything I took it right apart. I think I had to cut some nuts off so it wasn't easy but eventually I found a load of rust stopping it from spinning properly. After a good service etc it now works great spinning that little bit faster.
On a previous car I had the melted fuse issue on the main fuse block which turned out to be a poor wire to crimp contact on the back of the fuse block. I had to fit a replacement in-line fuse like the melted here and it worked well although it was footwell out of the way of any engine heat.
Thanks for that mate...The fan is as you say a Davies Craig...Couldn't remember the name...SPAL was in the 280i...I shouldn't have any rust as i use the car a fair bit...Mind you saying that she has sat for two weeks due to the shyte weather...Just waiting for the wind to calm it a bit so i can do some investigating...Apparently the 2nd storm is still yet to hit...FFS!!....Cheers...ZigaOn a previous car I had the melted fuse issue on the main fuse block which turned out to be a poor wire to crimp contact on the back of the fuse block. I had to fit a replacement in-line fuse like the melted here and it worked well although it was footwell out of the way of any engine heat.
Mark,
If you need a new fan, these are the guys to speak to:
http://www.mawsolutions.com/
Very helpful and quick service.
If you need a new fan, these are the guys to speak to:
http://www.mawsolutions.com/
Very helpful and quick service.
Cheers for all the help...I think it was just a bit of dodgy DIY.....
("Note to self - Temporary does not mean permanent")
The ring connector end that was attached to the battery had got disturbed when i had the master cylinder replaced a couple of weeks ago and unknowingly the wire got cable tied to the MC which put a strain on the fittings so was probably shorting out.
I have soldered the end fittings that will be needed..(Should of done it in the beginning).. whilst waiting for the heavy duty 30amp fuse holders to turn up...Which i will solder together instead of using bullet connectors..
I did check the fan for play in the bearing which seemed okay.
Fingers crossed the holders will turn up and everything goes back to normal...Whatever that is....
("Note to self - Temporary does not mean permanent")
The ring connector end that was attached to the battery had got disturbed when i had the master cylinder replaced a couple of weeks ago and unknowingly the wire got cable tied to the MC which put a strain on the fittings so was probably shorting out.
I have soldered the end fittings that will be needed..(Should of done it in the beginning).. whilst waiting for the heavy duty 30amp fuse holders to turn up...Which i will solder together instead of using bullet connectors..
I did check the fan for play in the bearing which seemed okay.
Fingers crossed the holders will turn up and everything goes back to normal...Whatever that is....
I've had a few hot fuses, which were all down to a dodgy connection, either the fuse itself in the holder (loose clip etc) or the wires being not crimped fully/worked loose etc. Always worth checking the fuses every service by feeling their temperature after a good run. A lot of the inline designs are simply CRAP.
My advice for DIY is to solder - Yes this does technically make the wire more brittle, but a proper crimp needs lots and lots of pressure, which is impossible with the typical (cheap) hand tools sold in auto shops. You can also solder over a crimp in many cases (not the aluminium stuff).
The professional tools are quite expensive.
I used proper crimp tools when doing my apprenticeship, and even the 'small' sizes (like 1/4 inch spades you see all over cars) were crimped with a hydraulic foot pump tool. This had options for flat crimps too, where it effectively cold welds the wire.
The hand tools were quite large too, simply to get enough leverage/pressure.
My advice for DIY is to solder - Yes this does technically make the wire more brittle, but a proper crimp needs lots and lots of pressure, which is impossible with the typical (cheap) hand tools sold in auto shops. You can also solder over a crimp in many cases (not the aluminium stuff).
The professional tools are quite expensive.
I used proper crimp tools when doing my apprenticeship, and even the 'small' sizes (like 1/4 inch spades you see all over cars) were crimped with a hydraulic foot pump tool. This had options for flat crimps too, where it effectively cold welds the wire.
The hand tools were quite large too, simply to get enough leverage/pressure.
Nice. I like the neat heat shrink too. Good job mate.
Interesting wot you said about the wire - When I was doing kit cars, I was amazed at how thin some of the wires are in the standard looms, especially headlamp feeds. I replaced them with thicker wires (yes,I do mean the copper inside !).
I did that on my wedge, and headlamps were definitely a bit brighter after cleaned connectors and bigger wire.....
Interesting wot you said about the wire - When I was doing kit cars, I was amazed at how thin some of the wires are in the standard looms, especially headlamp feeds. I replaced them with thicker wires (yes,I do mean the copper inside !).
I did that on my wedge, and headlamps were definitely a bit brighter after cleaned connectors and bigger wire.....
Well panic over...Normal service resumed after i fitted the holder this morning..The fan actually feel a bit more powerful so was definitely shorting out me thinks..
Might of put a bit too much solder on one join but doesn't have loads of flux on it..For flux sake...
I might wrap it in some heatproof tape for good measure...Cheers for all the help....Ziga
Might of put a bit too much solder on one join but doesn't have loads of flux on it..For flux sake...
I might wrap it in some heatproof tape for good measure...Cheers for all the help....Ziga
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