Questions from a new TVR400SE owner please be gentle ;)
Discussion
ElvisWedgely said:
For the padding under the bonnet I use contact evo stick. Smear on both sides, wait for ten minutes then press them together. The trick is to have pressure on it overnight so as it sticks well.
Same here - put a lump of wood on top of the engine, then put the bonnet down so it presses the affected area, and leave overnight. Saves having to take the bonnet off.Can i just say that Evo-stick contact adhesive is no good as it WILL drop down again as the glue is NOT heatproof...The best glue to use is what is recommended for this purpose..AF178.
You will need to clean off any old glue and make sure both surfaces are clean.
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1263-heat-resistan...
Yes its expensive but then so is wasting money on the wrong glue!
Cheers...Ziga
You will need to clean off any old glue and make sure both surfaces are clean.
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1263-heat-resistan...
Yes its expensive but then so is wasting money on the wrong glue!
Cheers...Ziga
Slightly of topic I have a number of pictures of the outrigger work done on my car. It was by a car restoration company and I think it was done a bit differently to normal, if normal is replacing the whole outrigger which seems to be the way for Griffiths.
I was thinking of putting the pictures on another thread as I think it is quite interesting, although others may disagree, worth doing?
Nick
I was thinking of putting the pictures on another thread as I think it is quite interesting, although others may disagree, worth doing?
Nick
Nick Brough said:
Slightly of topic I have a number of pictures of the outrigger work done on my car. It was by a car restoration company and I think it was done a bit differently to normal, if normal is replacing the whole outrigger which seems to be the way for Griffiths.
I was thinking of putting the pictures on another thread as I think it is quite interesting, although others may disagree, worth doing?
Nick
I was going to mention this but I didn't want to worry you. I have already seen those chassis pictures because the guy sent them to me. It is actually what made me stall from the purchase. Though they were done to MOT standards, that is not the way to replace out riggers. I also got advice from a well known man in the know, but he doesn't use this forum any longer because some people are rude to him. However, if you go on the TVR forum he will be able to advise you on how outriggers should be replaced. Still, the work done on your car will last a number of years but may need doing again in the future the conventional way. I hope that answers your question.I was thinking of putting the pictures on another thread as I think it is quite interesting, although others may disagree, worth doing?
Nick
Tony. TCB.
ElvisWedgely said:
Though they were done to MOT standards, that is not the way to replace out riggers. I also got advice from a well known man in the know, but he doesn't use this forum any longer because some people are rude to him.
And he was very rude to others don't forget...And he is here..He just lurks and watches which is a bit weird...If not sad...
mrzigazaga said:
And he was very rude to others don't forget...And he is here..He just lurks and watches which is a bit weird...If not sad...
Mark, you have a very suspicious mind. I hope you have proof to back up these allegations. Next you'll be accusing me of spying for him.All I was trying to point out was that the right man to give Nick the information he needed about the chasiss is no longer on this forum. No doubt there are others on this forum in the know, but I just don't know them. It's no big deal. Let's keep it professional and not have a go at each other all the time.
Tony. TCB.
ElvisWedgely said:
mrzigazaga said:
And he was very rude to others don't forget...And he is here..He just lurks and watches which is a bit weird...If not sad...
Mark, you have a very suspicious mind. I hope you have proof to back up these allegations. Next you'll be accusing me of spying for him.All I was trying to point out was that the right man to give Nick the information he needed about the chasiss is no longer on this forum. No doubt there are others on this forum in the know, but I just don't know them. It's no big deal. Let's keep it professional and not have a go at each other all the time.
Tony. TCB.
ElvisWedgely said:
I was going to mention this but I didn't want to worry you. I have already seen those chassis pictures because the guy sent them to me. It is actually what made me stall from the purchase. Though they were done to MOT standards, that is not the way to replace out riggers. I also got advice from a well known man in the know, but he doesn't use this forum any longer because some people are rude to him. However, if you go on the TVR forum he will be able to advise you on how outriggers should be replaced. Still, the work done on your car will last a number of years but may need doing again in the future the conventional way. I hope that answers your question.
Tony. TCB.
Tony,Tony. TCB.
No problem, I am not worried as the only places to be really worried about are the seatbelt mounting points the rest is pretty non structural. Hopefully the welding is up to Southern GT standard, (they graft their rear suspension onto the back end of older GT40 replicas), and as experienced car restorers I am sure it is, they will be fine and much better than what they replaced, and indeed what is under many TVR's out there.
Nick
Edited by Nick Brough on Saturday 13th February 18:17
There are plenty of proper Wedge specialists out there like Richard Thorpe Racing for one...What Richard doesn't know about Wedges is probably not worth knowing..Then there are plenty of Wedge enthusiasts on here who have completed total restorations with supporting detailed documented files..I wouldn't listen to anyone who is a self appointed "Specialist"...In anything to be honest...And especially if they are paying others to do it for them...
Personally i call this fellow Wedger a specialist although he is too modest and won't hear of such a title...
Every Wedge owner should have this...
Wedgeneering
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
Show me something that is either close or better than this and i will eat my Wedge....
ATB
Personally i call this fellow Wedger a specialist although he is too modest and won't hear of such a title...
Every Wedge owner should have this...
Wedgeneering
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
Show me something that is either close or better than this and i will eat my Wedge....
ATB
mrzigazaga said:
T
Personally i call this fellow Wedger a specialist although he is too modest and won't hear of such a title...
Every Wedge owner should have this...
Wedgeneering
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
Show me something that is either close or better than this and i will eat my Wedge....
ATB
Is this the same guy, it is the article that gave me even more confidence in the work done on my chassis, and that sections can be replaced if done properly, 26 years will do me Personally i call this fellow Wedger a specialist although he is too modest and won't hear of such a title...
Every Wedge owner should have this...
Wedgeneering
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
Show me something that is either close or better than this and i will eat my Wedge....
ATB
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p5.htm
Nick Brough said:
Is this the same guy, it is the article that gave me even more confidence in the work done on my chassis, and that sections can be replaced if done properly, 26 years will do me
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p5.htm
Thats the fellow....http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p5.htm
mrzigazaga said:
Nick Brough said:
Is this the same guy, it is the article that gave me even more confidence in the work done on my chassis, and that sections can be replaced if done properly, 26 years will do me
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p5.htm
Thats the fellow....http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p5.htm
Mark, you might like to start by chewing the seats!!!
Tony. TCB.
Edited by ElvisWedgely on Sunday 14th February 12:18
Edited by ElvisWedgely on Sunday 14th February 12:34
I've had the outriggers done professionally on my 400, by a well respected TVR specialist. We've also owned TVRs since 1988 (admittedly only 3 Wedges of increasing engine size), and so what? Doesn't make me an expert, perhaps just a bit more knowledgeable than the average bloke in the street. I would be cautious of anyone claiming to be an expert - unless it's expertise in polishing
Mark, you are so wrong with your accusations and so unprofessional as an event organiser. I will say no more on the this matter as I don't wish to argue with you or your rude friends. I for one am out and am sure many others will follow suite in time. I wish you all the best mate.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
Gents, enough already........ Open forum bickering in my view doesn't do anyone any favours. You have both put a lot of appreciated effort into Wedges, BBWF and promoting our cars, certainly since I've been a Wedge owner. I think it would be good to move on as potential new Wedge owners might be put off from using this forum when in my view it is a fantastic source of support and technical information. Cheers.
mrzigazaga said:
Tony....(Sigh)...I have spoken to RT and numerous other people who work with Wedges on a professional basis and who are fully in the know as regards to Wedges...As regards to cutting off the outriggers with the body still on the car it is looked upon as monkeying or bodging..Their words not mine...
It's an opinion and the ideal situation will always be to remove the body, however Prestige and Performance, TVR south West, X Works and I believe Traqck V Road all advertise outrigger replacement without body removal so I think "monkeying or bodging" is a bit harsh especially when the work is done by a professional restoration company Well a step forward today glass back in although I think I am always going to have to be careful operating the drivers side. Only passenger side mirror not adjusting now, and nearside side / brake-light turned out to be a wire on the back of the fuse loose. Lucky I went checking the bulbs first as it highlighted the boot release wire only had a few strands left one end. Replaced the wire and added a feature to operate the latch in event of solenoid failure as unlike the Griffs there doesn't seem to be a backup way of getting in the noot.
However, another feature has arisen, removing the door trim to do the glass showed me the car has central locking, how does this operate when working correctly ;}
Nick
Edited by Nick Brough on Sunday 14th February 18:20
Edited by Nick Brough on Sunday 14th February 18:22
Nick Brough said:
However, another feature has arisen, removing the door trim to do the glass showed me the car has central locking, how does this operate when working correctly ;}
Nick
Normally it would be operated by the alarm key fob though I think it may have been an optional extra. If the solonoids are there and you have an alarm system with a key fob, you may be able to get it going. It works more or less like the boot lock, except this is operated by a remote. The solenoids look very similar. I had a previous wedge that had the solonoids but not the fob so I had to remove the solenoids. Out of the five wedges I've owned, only one had a working system. My existing one doesn't have it though I may still be able to install it because I have the previous solenoids somewhere in the garage and my existing wedge does have an alarm with a fob.Nick
Tony. TCB.
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