Head gasket advice

Head gasket advice

Author
Discussion

tofts

411 posts

157 months

Sunday 8th May 2016
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You could try extractors, but unsure if they will work in this case even with heat. There are mobile engineers that will be able to get them out in situ by and if done well, won't even damage the thread. It's the route I would consider as if you break off an extractor, they are nightmarishly hard to drill!

Jody

Rockettvr

Original Poster:

1,804 posts

144 months

Sunday 8th May 2016
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Hi all
Its a difficult one to be sure - got to get enough force to bear to shift it but be delicate enough as to not to do any damage. Not used a helicoil before - how would it fare in such a high torque application??
I'm hoping that now the stress on the bolt is relieved it'll shift fairly easily as said the bolts were extremely tight - had to use a T bar on the socket with an extension on the end - must have been 500mm overall to get enough force to shift them - they should be torqued to 70 lb/ft but I think that they were well tighter than that
I've used the weld a nut on method before and it usually works well , you can get good purchase on the bolt and the heat helps but in this case the bolt has broken a good few mm below the block surface and as the block is Ali I'm not sure I want to go that route


Edited by Rockettvr on Sunday 8th May 09:15


Edited by Rockettvr on Sunday 8th May 09:17

oakdale

1,806 posts

203 months

Sunday 8th May 2016
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Rockettvr said:
Morning peeps
Have sourced and ordered parts so I thought id carry on with the strip down
Top tip Martin re: Tilting engine to get access to bolts thumbup
All went well until I got to the head bolts themselves which were extremely tight
Cracked each one a little working my way around until one bugger cracked off literally


Had enough by then so filled the recess of the bolt in the head with wd 40 to soak overnight - will attack it again today with some screw extractors wd40 and if need be a bit of heat
Don't attempt to use a stud extractor in this case, it will only end in tears.

Centre punch the stud as near to dead centre as you can, then drill it carefully with a 3mm drill and then with increasing drill sizes (without going into the threads) until you're left with just a shell.

Then using a small needle file, verically file a groove in the shell (on the thickest part if the hole is not central) until you break into the thread, you should the be able to tap the remains inwards with a small punch and free it.

Edited by oakdale on Sunday 8th May 10:00

Rockettvr

Original Poster:

1,804 posts

144 months

Sunday 8th May 2016
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Stop it now guys - you're scaring me weeping

Number 7

4,103 posts

263 months

Sunday 8th May 2016
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Rockettvr said:
. Not used a helicoil before - how would it fare in such a high torque application??

Edited by Rockettvr on Sunday 8th May 09:15


Edited by Rockettvr on Sunday 8th May 09:17
when I had a head gasket go a few years back, I discovered what had caused it. When slackening the nuts on the ARP studs which were fitted at the time, one took far less effort to release. When I got it all apart, I could see that the thread had been stripped, presumably when the studs were installed several years earlier, and it had taken quite a long time to cause the gasket to blow. I got an engineer in to drill it out and helicoil it for me, and no problems tightening it since, either when I put the head back on, or when Dom rebuilt my engine recently.

The Hatter

988 posts

171 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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Ron, Get some left handed drill bits... if you're lucky the stud will just wind out as you attempt to drill it.

Rockettvr

Original Poster:

1,804 posts

144 months

Monday 9th May 2016
quotequote all
I've just had to google left handed drill bits as I didn't know that such a thing existed.
I thought they might be on the same shelf as sky hooks and long weights.....

Number 7

4,103 posts

263 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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Rockettvr said:
I've just had to google left handed drill bits as I didn't know that such a thing existed.
I thought they might be on the same shelf as sky hooks and long weights.....
Don't be silly. Everyone knows they're between the left handed screwdrivers and the tubs of elbow grease.;)

Grady

1,221 posts

261 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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Not to mention coils of shoreline and cans of striped paint.

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

243 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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You need left-handed drill bits to drill holes in chocolate fireguards don't you?

But seriously that looks like a right pig to remove. When I've welded onto bolts they have been proud of the block (and not in the head area).

If you're drilling it out as suggested then the challenge is to keep the drill square to the block face so you go dead parallel to the threads. I like the ide of the left hand bit - well it can only help.

If you haven't binned the old gasket then put it back onto the head face retained by a couple of head bolts - that will help to protect the face from inadvertent drill slippage.

Rockettvr

Original Poster:

1,804 posts

144 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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Well the buggers out
All you doom mongers out there - all it took was 5 days soaking in wd40 and a well placed centre punch to get it to move smile
I'm off to do the lotto now - I'm feeling lucky biggrin

Number 7

4,103 posts

263 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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Nicely done Ron. Good luck with the rest of the job.

Grady

1,221 posts

261 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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I like happy endings!

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

243 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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Brilliant! Those left-hand drill bits ain't cheap!

I find better than WD40 is brake fluid - penetrates really well.

The Hatter

988 posts

171 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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Well done Ron, maybe you should buy a lottery ticket now...

Grady

1,221 posts

261 months

Monday 9th May 2016
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And WD-40 now markets a penetrating spray. No idea if it's any better.

rev-erend

21,421 posts

285 months

Tuesday 10th May 2016
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Nice job - glad it was a happy ending.

Rockettvr

Original Poster:

1,804 posts

144 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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Evening all
All the parts for the rebuild arrived last week so I spent a few hours yesterday reassembling
No major issues just a few hard to reach bolts and it went together quite easily
Checked all fluids plopped in the battery and - nothing
A quick check revealed id forgotten to connect the main earth strap to the engine biglaugh
That sorted found a weep on a fuel pipe to the fpr ,a quick tighten a check round and attempt to start and it turned over once and the battery died curse
I must admit the battery has not been great for a while - its ok if the wedge is used regularly but if stood for a few weeks it loses charge. It was too late to get a replacement yesterday but I picked another up today.
With a fresh battery she fired up straight away - on four cylinders traced to the 2pr resistor pack - I must have dislodged the connector while working on the car - that got me up to 6 cylinders the others needing the injector connections pushing fully home
All seems ok now - idling nicely, no steam or smoke from the exhaust, no rattles or leaks, coolant level seems to be stable
Unfortunately I wasn't able to take her for a run out as the mot has expired while she was off the road
Thanks for all the advice and help fellas will see you soon provided she passes the mot

Jack Valiant

1,894 posts

237 months

Monday 16th May 2016
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Great news Ron hopefully see you at one of meets

Chris

The Hatter

988 posts

171 months

Tuesday 17th May 2016
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Well done Ron! I look forward to seeing you out and about...

Any news on that 400SE you were looking into?