Discussion
Well, now starting to run out of things to test.
Compression good
New spark plugs
New air filter
Coolant temp. Sensor good
Accelerate pot sensor good
Fuel pressure good
Injectors good
Things still to test
Timing
CO
+ everything else
Did see another post that mentioned dry solder joint in the ECU, might keep that one till last.
Compression good
New spark plugs
New air filter
Coolant temp. Sensor good
Accelerate pot sensor good
Fuel pressure good
Injectors good
Things still to test
Timing
CO
+ everything else
Did see another post that mentioned dry solder joint in the ECU, might keep that one till last.
Chadders75 said:
Did see another post that mentioned dry solder joint in the ECU, might keep that one till last.
Hi mate...That is a possibility...There is a crude test that does actually work...It involves the ECU and a hammer...Well not quite a hammer more of a handle of a large screwdriver...Rubber preferably..There should be enough slack on the wiring to place the ECU on the floor under where it normally sits...Start the car and give the ECU a short sharp "Thwack" with the handle ...If the car runs sweet as then its definitely the ECU.There are people who can rebuild these but i would only trust the ones i know as they have been doing for years and know what to look for...Resistor wise as well...Cost from BBA reman £200 inc vat and delivery..And a 25 year guarantee.....It is money well spent....
Hope you find it....Ziga
I've still got one of them sat on my shelf in the shed, but mine is FAR FAR BETTER than yours, because it's BRIGHT YELLOW !!! (Gastester)
Other than that, it's pretty crap, and doesn't really give you any more info than watching your engine whilst you're fiddling with it.
I like the way that gauge almost, but not quite, fits the style of the others....
I seem to remember 14.7 as being ideal for idle ?
So 14.6 is probably 'OFF' or something, or a sign that global warming is real......
Other than that, it's pretty crap, and doesn't really give you any more info than watching your engine whilst you're fiddling with it.
I like the way that gauge almost, but not quite, fits the style of the others....
I seem to remember 14.7 as being ideal for idle ?
So 14.6 is probably 'OFF' or something, or a sign that global warming is real......
The gastesters sound to be a bit like Marmite, but apart from taking my car to the local garage, which would be the equivalent of taking it to the petting zoo. I don't think I have much option when it comes to checking to fuel mixture.
Did take it for a run last night, sound a little better, but still hesitant when the revs pick up.
Will take a hamer to the ECU today, thanks for the tip
Did take it for a run last night, sound a little better, but still hesitant when the revs pick up.
Will take a hamer to the ECU today, thanks for the tip
Chadders75 said:
Well, now starting to run out of things to test.
Compression good
New spark plugs
New air filter
Coolant temp. Sensor good
Accelerate pot sensor good
Fuel pressure good
Injectors good
Things still to test
Timing
CO
+ everything else
Did see another post that mentioned dry solder joint in the ECU, might keep that one till last.
Sometimes its just easier to swap big components with another wedge owner to test if it instantly fixes an issue.Compression good
New spark plugs
New air filter
Coolant temp. Sensor good
Accelerate pot sensor good
Fuel pressure good
Injectors good
Things still to test
Timing
CO
+ everything else
Did see another post that mentioned dry solder joint in the ECU, might keep that one till last.
I had a badly running 400SE and swapped the ECU - it was instantly better.
Other harder to find thing are like wires that work OK - but you touch or lift them and the misfire / issue shows itself.
I was interested in one of those gunson CO meters years ago .. but remembered the poor quality another gunson product I had bought years ago .. a timing light. So I bought a hand held 4 gas analyser off evilbay instead.
Not going to get to test this weekend but here is a bit on the magic 14.7 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_rat...
Well still chipping away, just checked the timing to make sure that it is ok, and it is sitting at 4 deg. BTDC on premium unleaded. But then as the engine started to warm up fully I noticed steam coming from the radiator.
So more questions. Radiator replace or new and price. And do all the wedges have the pipes go over the cross bar like in my photo.
So more questions. Radiator replace or new and price. And do all the wedges have the pipes go over the cross bar like in my photo.
Hi mate
You are probably better off getting the old one recored..Personally i would get the otter switch welded up and fit a thermo-coupling in the pipe work to operate the cooling fan.
I did make a video of removing the radiator but we had to butcher my front spoiler as we couldn't remove it as all the bolts were just spinning...We would of cut them and re-glassed some in but we didn't have enough light hours in the day..
Its predominantly the classic range rover discovery 1 EFI, The early pre-serp Griffs had the very same rad.
Depending where you live its about £200-250 for a refurb and double that for a new one.
Hope this helps
Ziga
You are probably better off getting the old one recored..Personally i would get the otter switch welded up and fit a thermo-coupling in the pipe work to operate the cooling fan.
I did make a video of removing the radiator but we had to butcher my front spoiler as we couldn't remove it as all the bolts were just spinning...We would of cut them and re-glassed some in but we didn't have enough light hours in the day..
Its predominantly the classic range rover discovery 1 EFI, The early pre-serp Griffs had the very same rad.
Depending where you live its about £200-250 for a refurb and double that for a new one.
Hope this helps
Ziga
Hi mate
I have never personally used any of these people but there are some in your area.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
I have never personally used any of these people but there are some in your area.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
I'd get yours re-cored properly. I've had both on my Wedges sorted for £220 all in and at least I know that they will fit when the go back in. Marks radiator removal was a little drastic with the cutting. I managed to get mine out coming up through the slot by the cross bar but it was time consuming. The easiest way I hear is to remove the panel beneath the front bumper and then it comes out nice and easy. And yes both of mine have the pipe as yours over the cross panel and the bonnet squishes the hose when it's fully open. I put a little rubber grease on the hose to ensure it doesn't snag or tear.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
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