Wheel alignment settings

[tvrmk363]

I'm rebuilding my suspension with new bushings and need the suspension settings. I searched and found a couple of different sets.
Does anyone know the correct ones or have an opinion on these;

Front
toe in(mm) 3.2 +- 1.5
Camber(deg) 0+-0.5
Kingpin(deg Toe) 6 incline
Castor (deg) 3.0 +- 0.5

Back:
Toe in(mm) 4.5 +- 1.5
Camber(deg) 0.5+-0.5


Front:
toe in 0.5 degree
camber 1 degree negative
caster 3.5 to 4 degrees positive

Back:
toe in 2mm
negative camber 1 to 1.5 degrees

Charlie

[mrzigazaga]

This information was passed to me by a trusted source....(Thanks Taz)

Here are the generic settings for all Wedges:

The tracking should be set at 3.2mm toe-in +/- 1.5mm

Caster: 3.5 - 4.0 deg. pos.
Camber (F) 1.0 deg. neg.
Camber (R) 1.0 - 1.5 deg. neg.
Toe (in) (F) 0.50 deg.
Toe (in) (R) 2MM - don't know why MM not deg!

2mm on 15inch rims = 0.30 degrees = 18 minutes
2mm on 17inch rims = 0.27 degrees = 16 minutes
Either way it's just a smidge toe in.

15 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.24 degrees wheel to vehicle center-line or 0.48 degrees wheel to wheel.

14 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.26 degrees wheel to vehicle center-line or 0.52 degrees wheel to wheel.

For the front
toe is 3.2 +/- 1.5mm
camber is 0 +/- 1.2 degres (not adjustable anyway is it?)
caster is 31.2 +/- 0.5 degrees
King Pin Inclination = 6 degrees
For the rear
toe is 4.5mm
camber is 0.5 +/- 0.5 degrees (this seems small as the wheels have a visible camber)

Hope this helps....

[RCK974X]

A quick thought - I agree they work out to be the same thing.....


As Zig says, but I made it more straightforward...... in round numbers

A 185/70 X 14 tyre is about 24 inches, or about 600mm diameter,

So 3mm toe-in = 0.5 degrees [approx].

Rears have different specs because of the change from trailing arm to wishbone ?

[tvrmk363]

Thanks guy!

[v8s4me]

Many thanks for all the responses.

My tyres are 205R60 x 14 so...

RCK974X said:

...A 185/70 X 14 tyre is about 24 inches, or about 600mm diameter, So 3mm toe-in = 0.5 degrees...

is this still correct?

Is this something I could do myself with a laser level? Mine laser level has a setting which will give me a perfect plumb line so could I use this to get the toe-in to zero and then turn it in from there? Or should I just hand over the £60 and get it done properly?

[phillpot]

not sure how your Lazer Level plan works but I've got one of these, bit of a fiddle to set up/use but if garages are charging £60 a pop I reckon it's a bargain!


There is of course the string method


I'd like a pair of "proper" gauges but despite virtually every garage now having fancy four wheel alignment laser stuff these old things still fetch good money

[v8s4me]

phillpot said:

....not sure how your Lazer Level plan works .....

Thanks for the link. The laser method is the string method brought up to date. My laser level will shine a vertical line down the side of the car so I should be able to measure off it. That's the theory anyway!

The flaw in the plan is that for it to work it needs a low light level. So having to to this on the drive means doing it late int he day and it's getting too cold for that.

[adam quantrill]

Cold? I'm still driving around with the top down...

[v8s4me]

Try lying on damp tarmac after it gets dark, no heater though, that's cheating .....

[RCK974X]

v8s4me said:

is this still correct?

Is this something I could do myself with a laser level? Mine laser level has a setting which will give me a perfect plumb line so could I use this to get the toe-in to zero and then turn it in from there? Or should I just hand over the £60 and get it done properly?

I think so - I've got a formula for calculating rolling circumference somewhere (gives turns per mile, which you can then use for speedo calibration and/or selection of speedo drive gears) Can post it here if it helps anyone.

I did my toe-in the cheap and cheerful way, with two long pieces of steel sat on axle stands, pushed up to tyre walls. Not nearly as accurate as a proper tool, but my tyres haven't worn down, and car holds onto bends very well....

Method - bars allow measure with tape measure outside body - measure distance between 'touch' points on tyre walls, then choose any point on bars, then calculate difference (typically about 6mm (3mm x 2) and measure further down by touch distance. Perfectly good geometry.... just make sure tape is straight.

[v8s4me]

I chickened out and got a local company to do it (£48.00). The front wheel alignment was way out as expected and he managed to trim the caster angle as well to get both sides symmetrical. Here's the print out...



They did a 4-wheel alignment check at the same time. Results...



As you can see, the n/s isn't quite right and needs shimming. There isn't enough space left on the spindle to shim this out so I've either got to accept it isn't quite spot on or have a new, longer spindle made (+20mm). The guy said the difference would only be noticeable when the car was being driven hard and is not likely to have a serous impact on tyre wear. So, if getting a spindle made is too expensive I'll live with it.

Thanks to everyone who contributed the numbers

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Joe.


I do recall that on my 280i DHC when the geo was set up correctly the N/S front wheel used to rub on the inner wheel arch...Especially on a motorway long curve which was a bit disconcerting when the road was wet..I had it so that it pulled slightly to the left and everything was gravy....

[v8s4me]

Hi Mark

mrzigazaga said:

....I had it so that it pulled slightly to the left.....

Actually, that's the way it was before he corrected it. Oh well, I suppose he can always nudge it back again if I get the rubbing you describe.