Window will not wind fully up!

Window will not wind fully up!

Author
Discussion

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
350i (87) the drivers side window will not wind fully up. it wound down ok not slow just fine but when I wound it up it went up at the normal speed and then clonk it stopped. I wound it down again went ok to the bottom then up and about 1/3 of the way clonk it stopped again. I have looked in the wedge book it is not a lot of help, I can not even find a full description of all the fixings. I have taken off the door trim panel and all the little plastic covers but still can not see what is catching. It seems to be when all the mechanical's line up with the runner along the bottom of the window. Has anybody got a decent diagram of the mechanical's or the bolts nuts and screws to remove to get the assembly out? Or anything that I should be careful with?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Len

colin mee

1,172 posts

119 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
Hi .I had this on mine it was hitting the gidetails on the top of the door and had come out of the vertical rubber inside the door.hope this helps .colin

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
Hi mate...Just be careful you don't break it...It could be as Colin say's or it might be the brake cable that stops the window going up too much caught on something...You should be able to see the cable with the door card off in the bottom right hand corner...An ingenious TVR piece of engineering...hehe

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
colin mee said:
Hi .I had this on mine it was hitting the gidetails on the top of the door and had come out of the vertical rubber inside the door.hope this helps .colin
There does not seem to be a problem with the guide rails, the glass is still in the rails front and back and it (the glass) is still in the holder at the bottom. As I said the widow come about a 1/3 of the way up and stops dead with a clonk like there is a mechanical stop. It is at the point when the bottom runner and lever arms all line up.

ElvisWedgely

2,714 posts

164 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
It may not be an obstuction at all. It could be that one of the wheels have come out of the runner. On the downward motion it would work, but on the upward motion the wheel may be catching on the runner entrance and halting the motion, if that makes sense.

Tony. TCB.

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
Hi mate...Just be careful you don't break it...It could be as Colin say's or it might be the brake cable that stops the window going up too much caught on something...You should be able to see the cable with the door card off in the bottom right hand corner...An ingenious TVR piece of engineering...hehe
I wondered what that old bicycle brake cable and adjuster was for. It does not go tight as the window goes up but seeing the bottom end if it has some crude fitting on the other end may be that is causing the system to jam.

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
ElvisWedgely said:
It may not be an obstuction at all. It could be that one of the wheels have come out of the runner. On the downward motion it would work, but on the upward motion the wheel may be catching on the runner entrance and halting the motion, if that makes sense.

Tony. TCB.
I have to say it would make sense but the the wheels are the track and it all looks square.

RCK974X

2,521 posts

148 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
Brake cable is to stop window going up right to top of rail, as it catches on roof panel when door open/close (it does on mine anyway).
So on mine, cable goes tight and stops window when about 1/4 inch below top.
It's a pain to make sure cable is free for full movement.....

It could also be something wedged in one of the teeth or damaged tooth on the lifter.
It won't necessarily catch on the way down with bad tooth as weight helps downward movement, but not up.

It could be lots of things - here's what I can think of

Rails and rubbers inside rails (broken, bunched up, bent)
Mechanism itself (rollers, runners for rollers, teeth, broken pivot,etc)
just simple wear on teeth finally 'jams up' (had that on mine, got a new assembly from scrappers (= SD1))
Cable catching on something.
Glass loose in its runner can cause misalignment.

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
RCK974X said:
Brake cable is to stop window going up right to top of rail, as it catches on roof panel when door open/close (it does on mine anyway).
So on mine, cable goes tight and stops window when about 1/4 inch below top.
It's a pain to make sure cable is free for full movement.....

It could also be something wedged in one of the teeth or damaged tooth on the lifter.
It won't necessarily catch on the way down with bad tooth as weight helps downward movement, but not up.

It could be lots of things - here's what I can think of

Rails and rubbers inside rails (broken, bunched up, bent)
Mechanism itself (rollers, runners for rollers, teeth, broken pivot,etc)
just simple wear on teeth finally 'jams up' (had that on mine, got a new assembly from scrappers (= SD1))
Cable catching on something.
Glass loose in its runner can cause misalignment.
Thanks. As you had to replace the mechanism do you have any information on how to get the window mechanism out? Pictures diagrams etc? Do's and don'ts.

RCK974X

2,521 posts

148 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
Sorry no photos....

Mine is an early (82) 280 DHC, I don't know if later ones had different detail or not .... here goes.

Set window about half way (so you can hold it, but it's not at the top).
remove cable attachment from bottom corner.

The front 'triangle' vertical runner is held in place with a nut and bolt at the BOTTOM of the door, with big washers and a big hole (for adjustment). remove bolt and slide out the runner.

KEEP HOLD OF THE WINDOW.

Rear runner is similar, with bolt at bottom. Be careful as it tends to catch on the door lock and its wires too.

There are two horizontal steel tubes which are the main door support (just telling you this so you know !) they don't help much for space either.

I can't remember for absolute, but pretty sure once runners removed, you can slide window sideways enough to disengage it from rollers.
You may have to undo the motor bolts first and angle the assembly a bit. (obvious where the motor mounting bolts are).
Then angle the window and it should pull out.

It's fiddly and working in tight spaces, but doable.

Then there is a second runner bolted to the door, as the lifter forms an 'X', but you can leave this in place once window out.

Then once window out, you can get motor assy out, I think I had to 'stretch' the top of the door a bit to get it out, but GRP is flexible enough to allow this....

don't forget to disconnect the two wires.

If you have central locking there will be 3 wires going to door lock.

If you have door mirrors, the mirror pod bolts to the 'triangle' of front runner, disconnect any wires going here (three probably, not sure)

Hope that helps I did it by spending a lot of time with light down the door to work out what to do.

Reassembly is reverse of removal (HA....don't you HATE that ??? Bloody Haynes manuals...but I couldn't resist...)

RCK974X

2,521 posts

148 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
Just remembered - set window so that its (front) sloping section is partly in the door, which gives more horizontal movement when vertical runners removed, so there is enough movement in the window to slide it off its runners.... so probably only one third up.

and forgot the three screws on top of the triangle in front runner - mine are just self tappers into grp.

If I remember more I'll post it.

May be there's and SD1 door picture on web somewhere, may at least show how the main 'X' runners connect up...


Edited by RCK974X on Thursday 30th June 23:56

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
RCK974X said:
Just remembered - set window so that its (front) sloping section is partly in the door, which gives more horizontal movement when vertical runners removed, so there is enough movement in the window to slide it off its runners.... so probably only one third up.

and forgot the three screws on top of the triangle in front runner - mine are just self tappers into grp.

If I remember more I'll post it.

May be there's and SD1 door picture on web somewhere, may at least show how the main 'X' runners connect up...


Edited by RCK974X on Thursday 30th June 23:56
Thanks for the info in both posts, I am just about to go and have a go at removing the window parts. I did look on line for information but could not find anything that was really useful.

Jubjub502

55 posts

96 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
And be careful, especially putting the wheel in the short track on the bottom rear, gnarly, sharp edges!

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
Jubjub502 said:
And be careful, especially putting the wheel in the short track on the bottom rear, gnarly, sharp edges!
Well I have just got the widow out it seems that the bottom rail has rotted and allowed the rail to roll this it seems was causing the window to jam possibly against the door reinforcement bars. So I am now looking for a new bottom rail on the web.

Jack Valiant

1,894 posts

235 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
Found this in my archive ... may be helpful ... not sure who did it but I used it when replacing my runners and motors on the Gredge



I got my runners from Rimmers by the way

Enjoy

Chris

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
Jack Valiant said:
Found this in my archive ... may be helpful ... not sure who did it but I used it when replacing my runners and motors on the Gredge



I got my runners from Rimmers by the way

Enjoy

Chris
Thanks Chris,


As you can see the bottom channel that the glass fits in is rusted out, so I am looking for a new on. I will try Rimmers.

Thanks

Len

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
Thats in good condition compared to mine...


Make sure you get the rubber inlay as well...Might be worth spraying the new ones up with some protection...Dont buy the cheap ones from trimmers as they may rot in a year or so...

Cheers


Ziga

mk1fan

10,507 posts

224 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
ACF-50 should give that some extra protection.

LenChim

Original Poster:

225 posts

154 months

Friday 1st July 2016
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
Thats in good condition compared to mine...


Make sure you get the rubber inlay as well...Might be worth spraying the new ones up with some protection...Dont buy the cheap ones from trimmers as they may rot in a year or so...
Cheers
Ziga
Waiting for "TVRPasts" to come back to me, I have tried "Rimmers" but they do not have any. Has anybody got any suggestion who might have one?