The 280i rebuilding is about to commence !!
Discussion
Morning all.
ok, the Fuel distributor along with the WUR have been sent off for refurb.
over the weekend, one job was to re-attach the injectors to the fuel pipe assy and fit them back onto the inlet manifold.. however, on closer inspection of the pipes running from the fuel distributor to the injectors, a couple of them look like they could do with replacement.
having a quick google, cant seem to find anything as a direct replacement !! can anyone shed any light what the best replacment pipe is ?
they are the 6x hard moulded plastic pipes with the hard rubber pipes attaching to the injectors.
The writing on the pipes reads "Cohnen 314 0206 DIN 73378 PA12 sw LT"
Cheers
Dom
ok, the Fuel distributor along with the WUR have been sent off for refurb.
over the weekend, one job was to re-attach the injectors to the fuel pipe assy and fit them back onto the inlet manifold.. however, on closer inspection of the pipes running from the fuel distributor to the injectors, a couple of them look like they could do with replacement.
having a quick google, cant seem to find anything as a direct replacement !! can anyone shed any light what the best replacment pipe is ?
they are the 6x hard moulded plastic pipes with the hard rubber pipes attaching to the injectors.
The writing on the pipes reads "Cohnen 314 0206 DIN 73378 PA12 sw LT"
Cheers
Dom
Edited by Sireatalot on Monday 6th March 08:48
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Dom
Here is a supplier of nylon fuel line, It has a burst pressure of 100bar which is more than enough...However the barbed fittings are heat pressed on...
This can be achieved by warming the end of the hose with a heat gun on low and then quickly pushing on the hose, personally I would do a couple of test pieces....
I believe you will need 6mm OD & 4mm ID.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
Cheers
Ziga
Nice one Buddy..that looks spot on, why couldn't I find that last night Here is a supplier of nylon fuel line, It has a burst pressure of 100bar which is more than enough...However the barbed fittings are heat pressed on...
This can be achieved by warming the end of the hose with a heat gun on low and then quickly pushing on the hose, personally I would do a couple of test pieces....
I believe you will need 6mm OD & 4mm ID.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
Cheers
Ziga
your Goooooogleeinnng skills are 2nd to none
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Dom
I believe you will need 6mm OD & 4mm ID.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
Cheers
Ziga
Morning Ziga.I believe you will need 6mm OD & 4mm ID.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
Cheers
Ziga
By all accounts this pipe is not suitable - I have it on good information that you need a 6mm OD and 2mm ID for the injectors to function correctly. Thanks for that though , just thought I'd post up
Cheers
Dom
mrzigazaga said:
Oh sorry...Thought it was too good to be true...I know there was a kit that was for the Porkers with the same MFI K-jetronic...Ill do some more digging...I may have some spares, how many do you need?
No worries. If I spotted that pipe, I would have thought the same.. was thinking about replacing all 6 pipes.
Ill give you a bell later on to chat.
Afternoon all.
Just thought I'd post up an update whilst having lunch.
Over the last week, I managed to get the passenger side fuel tank off the car - wanted to see what condition they were in after being stood for so long without fuel in it. Lets just say I was happily suprized when looking inside to see clean, rust free metal. Since removing it, have had a local company give it a once over ( clean flush and pressure test ) and they also said "nothing wrong with it mate, will last for ages." so a massive thumbs up
. They even painted it for me !!
Same company also recored the existing radiator - taking the cores from approx 28 to now 52 - dont quote me on that though.. so cooling now shouldn't be an issue when its back on the road.
During this time also, have started on the interior - gave it a clean out and removed all the cobwebs, thats nearly ready for the interior to go back in once new carpets have been fitted which in turn, have to wait for the fuel tank brackets to be re-fitted.
so.. next on the list ( hopefully in some kind of order )
1- get new fuel tank brackets fabricated.
2 - fit the tanks back on
3 - fit new fuel pipe between tanks and then plumb in new fuel pump / filters and associated pipework
4 - finish the engine off - refit gearbox and then mount in the car !!
5 - fit the rad and all associated cooling hoses.
6 - get a new electric fan and fit ( will be getting an auto electrician to wire this in and also go over all electrics to give thumbs up)
7 - get new alternator - Mr Q, have you any more of your adjuster bars for sale, if suitable for the 280i, will be after one please.
8 - GO FOR IGNITION !!
9 - lay new carpets and fit the interior back into the car - calling Ziga !!
10 - fit the front lights and pods
11 - Poss MOT time..
12 -
Im sure I have missed stuff off here but the list is slowly getting smaller.
fingers crossed everyone !!
Just thought I'd post up an update whilst having lunch.
Over the last week, I managed to get the passenger side fuel tank off the car - wanted to see what condition they were in after being stood for so long without fuel in it. Lets just say I was happily suprized when looking inside to see clean, rust free metal. Since removing it, have had a local company give it a once over ( clean flush and pressure test ) and they also said "nothing wrong with it mate, will last for ages." so a massive thumbs up
. They even painted it for me !!Same company also recored the existing radiator - taking the cores from approx 28 to now 52 - dont quote me on that though.. so cooling now shouldn't be an issue when its back on the road.
During this time also, have started on the interior - gave it a clean out and removed all the cobwebs, thats nearly ready for the interior to go back in once new carpets have been fitted which in turn, have to wait for the fuel tank brackets to be re-fitted.
so.. next on the list ( hopefully in some kind of order )
1- get new fuel tank brackets fabricated.
2 - fit the tanks back on
3 - fit new fuel pipe between tanks and then plumb in new fuel pump / filters and associated pipework
4 - finish the engine off - refit gearbox and then mount in the car !!
5 - fit the rad and all associated cooling hoses.
6 - get a new electric fan and fit ( will be getting an auto electrician to wire this in and also go over all electrics to give thumbs up)
7 - get new alternator - Mr Q, have you any more of your adjuster bars for sale, if suitable for the 280i, will be after one please.
8 - GO FOR IGNITION !!
9 - lay new carpets and fit the interior back into the car - calling Ziga !!
10 - fit the front lights and pods
11 - Poss MOT time..
12 -
Im sure I have missed stuff off here but the list is slowly getting smaller.
fingers crossed everyone !!
Jubjub502 said:
On that fuel hose. I recently managed to cook the cold start injector line with a propane torch. Duh! That line is hard to find, particularly over here in the states. It's a 6mm OD with a 2.14 ID, If I recall correctly. Made by Cohline. If I hadn't screwed mine up I would've never considered messing with them. Longevity was always an argument among CIS Porsche people. My 911 was 30+ years old and they were still totally pliable too. They didn't worry me but the wealthier, more paranoid types were always worrying.
But to install, I drilled through a block of wood, about the OD of the line, then drilled the next size up halfway through. Then I cut it in half bisecting the holes creating a clamp fixture of sorts to put in a bench vise. With the hose clamped between the wood fixture with the end sticking out maybe 1/2", I warmed it with a heat gun and used a hex wrench through the banjo bolt to push onto the hose. Once started, the hose can be moved up through the fixture as needed until fully seated. Sounds weird and probably makes no sense in my writing, but it worked. Stole the idea off of a Mercedes forum.
I'd love to have those non federal exhaust manifold downpipes on your Wedge! Was secretly hoping you were doing a motor swap!
Thanks for that Jubjub.But to install, I drilled through a block of wood, about the OD of the line, then drilled the next size up halfway through. Then I cut it in half bisecting the holes creating a clamp fixture of sorts to put in a bench vise. With the hose clamped between the wood fixture with the end sticking out maybe 1/2", I warmed it with a heat gun and used a hex wrench through the banjo bolt to push onto the hose. Once started, the hose can be moved up through the fixture as needed until fully seated. Sounds weird and probably makes no sense in my writing, but it worked. Stole the idea off of a Mercedes forum.
I'd love to have those non federal exhaust manifold downpipes on your Wedge! Was secretly hoping you were doing a motor swap!
Yeah, was thinking of changing the fuel lines and TBH I still would if the lines were readily available. You are correct about the 6mmOD / and 2mmID, as i understand any larger ID would adversely effect the performance of the injectors.
This whole project started off with the idea of putting a 2.9 Ford Cosworth BOB engine into the wedge
. It probably would have happened but the engine I had was too far gone and not worth trying to save unfortunately. That basicially made my mind up to fix the original 2.8 v6.I have had the exhaust slightly played with as it was going to fail a previous MOT, the results being slightly on the loud side !!
Cheers
Dom
Well, busy day yesterday.
Managed to fit the new clutch / pressure plate and release bearing to the flywheel. Then reattached the gearbox to the engine and went about getting it back into the car..
Massive spanner in the works though - when removing the engine and gearbox from the car we used the headbolts to attached the load balancer to chain hoist etc.. we only had approx 60mm to play with raising the block and wheeling the car out of the garage underneath it.
Putting the block back in I didnt want to use the headbolts again so thought we'd use a couple of 2 ton webbed straps to lift and attach to the load balancer to. however, with the maximum lift of the chain hoist available, we were approx 400mm short of clearing the front of the car !! this was due to the length of straps.
After a few choice swear words and head scratching moments, I could have been a contender for the Darwin awards with our solution to get the extra height needed I've ended up with this
I was really happy and felt a massive sense of acheivement.
This has now given me a load of new jobs and tasks to do before Thursday next week when Pirtek is coming over to fit new fuel lines between tanks and all the ones from tanks to engine and back..
One question though, the fuel lines from pump to engine and return line back from engine to tank ran along the passenger outrigger and up through the wheelarch, through a grommet into the engine bay - anyone any idea the size of this rubber grommet ?
The plan is coming together guys and dare I say BBWF is looking hopeful !!
Managed to fit the new clutch / pressure plate and release bearing to the flywheel. Then reattached the gearbox to the engine and went about getting it back into the car..
Massive spanner in the works though - when removing the engine and gearbox from the car we used the headbolts to attached the load balancer to chain hoist etc.. we only had approx 60mm to play with raising the block and wheeling the car out of the garage underneath it.
Putting the block back in I didnt want to use the headbolts again so thought we'd use a couple of 2 ton webbed straps to lift and attach to the load balancer to. however, with the maximum lift of the chain hoist available, we were approx 400mm short of clearing the front of the car !! this was due to the length of straps.
After a few choice swear words and head scratching moments, I could have been a contender for the Darwin awards with our solution to get the extra height needed I've ended up with this
I was really happy and felt a massive sense of acheivement.
This has now given me a load of new jobs and tasks to do before Thursday next week when Pirtek is coming over to fit new fuel lines between tanks and all the ones from tanks to engine and back..
One question though, the fuel lines from pump to engine and return line back from engine to tank ran along the passenger outrigger and up through the wheelarch, through a grommet into the engine bay - anyone any idea the size of this rubber grommet ?
The plan is coming together guys and dare I say BBWF is looking hopeful !!
Evening all.
Just a quick question to you all 280i owners..
Has anyone got any knowledge of how the 'octopus' fuel distributor is all wired up and connected to engine components?
Just want to make sure I connect all the fuel aspects of it too the right injectors / fuel filter / fuel return etc.. - a diagram would be handy so I can cross reference against.
Cheers
Dom
Just a quick question to you all 280i owners..
Has anyone got any knowledge of how the 'octopus' fuel distributor is all wired up and connected to engine components?
Just want to make sure I connect all the fuel aspects of it too the right injectors / fuel filter / fuel return etc.. - a diagram would be handy so I can cross reference against.
Cheers
Dom
HI Mark.
yeah i know but just wanting to make sure..
Because the pipes have been off the car for so long - I think they have deformed slightly and lost their accurate angle and bends...
Also just wanting to confirm conections for the fuel inlet from bulkhead filter and the fuel return to the tanks - the chappy is coming on Thursday to install new pipes and dont want to tell him the wrong locations on the distributor.
Cheers
yeah i know but just wanting to make sure..
Because the pipes have been off the car for so long - I think they have deformed slightly and lost their accurate angle and bends...
Also just wanting to confirm conections for the fuel inlet from bulkhead filter and the fuel return to the tanks - the chappy is coming on Thursday to install new pipes and dont want to tell him the wrong locations on the distributor.
Cheers
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