Radiator Leaking - Emergency Fix?

[Lewis's Friend]

Hi All

I know discussion about radiators is a favorite subject here! But this is a little different. I have just booked my other car in to have some paintwork done, and will be away for about a week.

The very evening of this booking, the TVR decides to start leaking from the radiator. This is especially annoying as it was recored about a year/18 months ago. Still, that is not the thrust of this thread.

My question is, I need the TVR to work until my other steed returns. Is it worth trying radweld as an interim measure? I generally shy away from such things, as they seem like a horrible thing to have going through your coolant system, but it may work. Or should I just keep topping up the coolant? The leak doesn't appear to be too bad at present...

All thoughts appreciated.

[tofts]

Never been keen on Radweld.

A suggestion would be to top it up , but leave the cap off to reduce system pressure. I've driven 200 miles with a split bottom hose like this once. Just keep an eye on fluid as you will use some.

J

[v8s4me]

Where is the leak? Could you solder it?



You'd be surprised what you can do with a blow lamp and a blob of solder.



Not pretty, but effective.

[Lewis's Friend]

Cheers for the feedback. I think I'll probably top up until my other car comes back and get it fixed.

I haven't had a chance to properly look, but it seems after a cursory inspection to be weeping from the core/side piece joints.

[tvrgit]

Lewis's Friend said:

Cheers for the feedback. I think I'll probably top up until my other car comes back and get it fixed.

I haven't had a chance to properly look, but it seems after a cursory inspection to be weeping from the core/side piece joints.

If you can identify exactly where the leaky joint is, you might be able to warm that bit of solder up a bit with a small blow lamp or even an iron - not till it melts into blobs and all runs out, but just until it softens a bit - and then push the softened solder around with a lolly stick to seal over any pinholes etc.

I did that as a temporary measure, lasted a fair while before I had to get a proper job done.

There is of course always the possibility that you heat it too much and it all melts and falls apart, but hey - life's an adventure, right?

[glenrobbo]

tvrgit said:

......push the softened solder around with a lolly stick to seal over any pinholes etc.

I did that as a temporary measure, lasted a fair while before I had to get a proper job done.

There is of course always the possibility that you heat it too much and it all melts and falls apart, but hey - life's an adventure, right?

And you get to enjoy a nice lolly as well! Bonus!

[v8s4me]

tvrgit said:

...There is of course always the possibility that you heat it too much and it all melts and falls apart....

Try and leave as much cold water in the rad as possible before you heat it. Only drain down to just below the leak. This helps dissipate the heat and lessens the chance of melting too much solder surrounding the leak.

[magpies]

could also try 'plastic metal' bit like two pieces of plastercene and mix together and push in and around the leak - after draining down and drying off

[Le TVR]

Lewis's Friend said:

d.

I haven't had a chance to properly look, but it seems after a cursory inspection to be weeping from the core/side piece joints.

Typical symptom of a rad being twisted by the mounting brackets.

[Lewis's Friend]

Again, thanks for the feedback.

Oddly, it has stopped leaking. I checked the coolant level, and it has used almost none so it was only fairly minor. That's all good for now, but I'd almost prefer it to leak so I can see what's going on.

I suppose this supports the idea that the flex in the mounts is moving the rad as the leak seems to have closed up (for now).