Wedge Window Motors
Discussion
Hi John.
Hope all is well...I have not personally done this so can't help much I'm afraid...There is a section in a well worth having TVR Wedge repair guide...It only really touches on the dismantle of the doors themselves not the motors...However i do believe they are still available...
Wedgeneering
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p8.htm
Hope this helps.....
Cheers
Ziga
Hope all is well...I have not personally done this so can't help much I'm afraid...There is a section in a well worth having TVR Wedge repair guide...It only really touches on the dismantle of the doors themselves not the motors...However i do believe they are still available...
Wedgeneering
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p8.htm
Hope this helps.....
Cheers
Ziga
Thanks Mark. There is an assembly on feebay which looks similar. Mine refused to close when it was p*ssing down true to TVR radition! Percussion adjustment did achieve some result but carrying a club hammer around!! Anyway might consider the feebay option. The upper limit of travel seems to be goverened by the quadrant teeth being bent over? The open limit of travel who knows? The motor is riveted to the lift mechanism. I guess openning the motor from the connection end would expose the brush and commutator but are parts available? Apparent from the above "Wesley" is running fine, still the bussing noise from transmission area but surprising the Euro Boxes at the traffic lights!Cheers J C.
Might be worth checking and cleaning up the connections as the motors are pretty hardy...If not then I'm pretty sure they are from an SD1...Not sure about service parts...The bent teeth might be to stop it pushing the channel to high...Theres normally a bike cable holding it at the set height...
Not done motor itself, but mine too was very stiff (fnarr)....
Try giving assembly a good clean and wire brush and oiling/greasing it first.
I ended up getting a scrap yard one. OE is Rover SD1 front door, but mine was a back door, so wrong angles.
I swapped the motor over, which seemed to fix mine....
Try giving assembly a good clean and wire brush and oiling/greasing it first.
I ended up getting a scrap yard one. OE is Rover SD1 front door, but mine was a back door, so wrong angles.
I swapped the motor over, which seemed to fix mine....
The limit it set by the bike cable stops. When you think about it the motor itself is turning many times whether at the limit or somewhere in the middle.
However the lever action of the scissor mechanism might be less effective near the top? Maybe that's why they slow down.
On my drivers one the up motion was very slow until I had to work on the cylinder heads. I removed and remade the earthing points at the back of the nearside head. This seemed to make a big difference - suddenly the motor worked all on its own with no manual assist going up. Also the indicated battery voltage rose a volt or so. So you might try cleaning up that earthing point.
However the lever action of the scissor mechanism might be less effective near the top? Maybe that's why they slow down.
On my drivers one the up motion was very slow until I had to work on the cylinder heads. I removed and remade the earthing points at the back of the nearside head. This seemed to make a big difference - suddenly the motor worked all on its own with no manual assist going up. Also the indicated battery voltage rose a volt or so. So you might try cleaning up that earthing point.
My drivers side window was very slow - turned out to be a build up of carbon from the brushes in the commutator and brush housing. The brush housing is kind of a sealed unit but I managed to dismantle clean and reassemble mine although its a real b
d to get everything to stay in the right place to get it back together. Works like new now. An easier route is what I did with the passenger side is to squirt copious amounts of wd40 into the housing whilst operating the window up and down thereby flushing out all the carbon dust. Use a rag underneath to catch all the wd40 as it runs out
d to get everything to stay in the right place to get it back together. Works like new now. An easier route is what I did with the passenger side is to squirt copious amounts of wd40 into the housing whilst operating the window up and down thereby flushing out all the carbon dust. Use a rag underneath to catch all the wd40 as it runs out 
Funnily enough I have the driver side door dismantled (wanted to fix an iffy lock. It... escalated).
May want to see what the motor is up to while I am on it.
Questions: Are there any sources for the window channel foams/seals? Mr Zig, the seal specialist...?
And since the limit cable mounting bracket was rusted to almost nothingness, will replace it with something else.
If I am looking for something that can be used to mount the bottom end of the limit cable, what's the thingy called?
"bicycle cable end thingy" is not a valid search term here. Something that can be bolted on to the M6 bolts holding the runners at the bottom. Surely there must be a thing that has the cable hole with screw locking at one end, and mounting to M6 bolt at the other? The TVR method of bent strip of steel and 2 separate cable lock thingies cannot be the best option anymore in the year 2016.
Unrelated gripe: £190 for the Escort Mk2 door handle?! £400 (with shipping) for a pair of freaking Ford door handles? Somebody should start making those as the prices are ridiculous. Fortunately I had half of the threads remaining in the screw hole (whoever used incorrect screw to strip the threads gave up at halfway it seems), it'll do.
(Yes, blatantly stealing Zig's thread but at least it is semi-topical)
May want to see what the motor is up to while I am on it.
Questions: Are there any sources for the window channel foams/seals? Mr Zig, the seal specialist...?
And since the limit cable mounting bracket was rusted to almost nothingness, will replace it with something else.
If I am looking for something that can be used to mount the bottom end of the limit cable, what's the thingy called?
"bicycle cable end thingy" is not a valid search term here. Something that can be bolted on to the M6 bolts holding the runners at the bottom. Surely there must be a thing that has the cable hole with screw locking at one end, and mounting to M6 bolt at the other? The TVR method of bent strip of steel and 2 separate cable lock thingies cannot be the best option anymore in the year 2016.
Unrelated gripe: £190 for the Escort Mk2 door handle?! £400 (with shipping) for a pair of freaking Ford door handles? Somebody should start making those as the prices are ridiculous. Fortunately I had half of the threads remaining in the screw hole (whoever used incorrect screw to strip the threads gave up at halfway it seems), it'll do.
(Yes, blatantly stealing Zig's thread but at least it is semi-topical)
hrepo said:
"bicycle cable end thingy" is not a valid search term here. Something that can be bolted on to the M6 bolts holding the runners at the bottom. Surely there must be a thing that has the cable hole with screw locking at one end, and mounting to M6 bolt at the other? The TVR method of bent strip of steel and 2 separate cable lock thingies cannot be the best option anymore in the year 2016.
Nowadays current-sensing is used to detect when the window hits the top of its travel, which is usually in the frame. To get that to work on the Wedge you'd still have to have some form of mechanical limit for the window to hit in order to stall the motor and cut the current.From an electronics viewpoint you could use all manner of proximity sensors, for example mounted on the scissor arms... but my guess is most owners would rather spend the money on petrol and bling.
Wedg1e said:
Nowadays current-sensing is used to detect when the window hits the top of its travel, which is usually in the frame. To get that to work on the Wedge you'd still have to have some form of mechanical limit for the window to hit in order to stall the motor and cut the current.
From an electronics viewpoint you could use all manner of proximity sensors, for example mounted on the scissor arms... but my guess is most owners would rather spend the money on petrol and bling.
No, I meant I will still use the cable, but would need the mounting for the cable lower end.From an electronics viewpoint you could use all manner of proximity sensors, for example mounted on the scissor arms... but my guess is most owners would rather spend the money on petrol and bling.
There has to be a simple thing that allows bicycle cable to be attached to M6 (or any size) bolt.
"bicycle cable mounting thing, to M6 bolt" is not a valid search, it appears. I don't even know what's the proper term here - not a big bicycle person.
And, ffs. The SD1 window channels (the ones that hold the glass at the bottom) are NLA. Any idea if the Land Rover used compatible ones? There are billion Land Rover channels, but the SD1 ones are now gone.
Mine's rusted in the middle and will snap in 2 any second now. EDIT:I guess that the channels for the scissor rollers could be welded to a new window clamping channel if the correct things are nowhere to be found. The profile of the window channel can't be that important, and the length shouldn't matter that much. Too long can be cut to lenght, and as long as it is long enough to allow the scissor roller runner channels to be welded on, shouldn't matter.
I had a funny feeling this was discussed recently.
And it was:
"You can buy the rubber as I found out later from C O H Baines Ltd part number:- IRS 0915 buy the meter for less money.
The metal window channel the part that actually carries the glass and rubber strip is Part number :- MTC8477. "
By LenChim.
But. Bah. I knew I shouldn't start fixing things on the door. One thing after another...
Mine's rusted in the middle and will snap in 2 any second now. EDIT:
I had a funny feeling this was discussed recently.
And it was:
"You can buy the rubber as I found out later from C O H Baines Ltd part number:- IRS 0915 buy the meter for less money.
The metal window channel the part that actually carries the glass and rubber strip is Part number :- MTC8477. "
By LenChim.
But. Bah. I knew I shouldn't start fixing things on the door. One thing after another...
Edited by hrepo on Sunday 28th August 13:28
Hi Hrepo.
Im pretty sure the Land Rover defender window channel fits...It comes with a seal, Or 1mm nitrile rubber sheet will work.....
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
To stop my window going up too much i used these that a fellow Wedger brought made up with the cable to the Wedgefest one year, I may have a couple left in the box of tricks in the cupboard of doom...You will need a bracket or flat plate with a hole in at the bottom...My 280i had a nut and bolt going through the lower point of the channel so that you could wrap the cable around it and the washer would hold it in place...
With these you can easily adjust the stop height...Although its best to stop it around 3mm under what you want as the cable will take that up when taught....
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
I will see if i have a couple of the "Kwik locs"....Obviously a small donation to the BBWF charity would be appreciated...
P:S Its not my post so you can nick it if you want...
Cheers
Ziga
Im pretty sure the Land Rover defender window channel fits...It comes with a seal, Or 1mm nitrile rubber sheet will work.....
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
To stop my window going up too much i used these that a fellow Wedger brought made up with the cable to the Wedgefest one year, I may have a couple left in the box of tricks in the cupboard of doom...You will need a bracket or flat plate with a hole in at the bottom...My 280i had a nut and bolt going through the lower point of the channel so that you could wrap the cable around it and the washer would hold it in place...
With these you can easily adjust the stop height...Although its best to stop it around 3mm under what you want as the cable will take that up when taught....
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
I will see if i have a couple of the "Kwik locs"....Obviously a small donation to the BBWF charity would be appreciated...
P:S Its not my post so you can nick it if you want...
Cheers
Ziga
Rangey ones definitely work and I've seen people post up about defender ones being OK too.
Something to attach the bike cable? Why not use an electrical terminal, M6, screw end, pass the cable through the small hole in a loop then clamp the cable to itself - you can do that with a bolt with a hole drilled thought the side near the head, pass the cable through both ways and clamp with a nut.
Something to attach the bike cable? Why not use an electrical terminal, M6, screw end, pass the cable through the small hole in a loop then clamp the cable to itself - you can do that with a bolt with a hole drilled thought the side near the head, pass the cable through both ways and clamp with a nut.
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Hrepo.
Im pretty sure the Land Rover defender window channel fits...It comes with a seal, Or 1mm nitrile rubber sheet will work.....
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
...
Ziga
Your link leads to seal only, Mr Zig. The part number MTC8477 on any shopping site should work - was already going to try one but since folks have tried this and it works will just get 2 and do both sides. But I've seen several auctions that have both channel and seal in the image but sell only the seal. Need to check what one gets.Im pretty sure the Land Rover defender window channel fits...It comes with a seal, Or 1mm nitrile rubber sheet will work.....
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
...
Ziga
The seal seems to be IRS 0915, according to LenChim.
And, if You do have 2 kwiklocs that work with thin enough wires I'd definitely like one. Makes it easy to adjust the length, I'd think. Still need something to attach both ends, but that should not be that tricky. Any chance You also stock the plastic door rod end pieces? Somebody had those recently, I seem to recall.
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