Wedge Window Motors

[mrzigazaga]

hrepo said:

if You do have 2 kwiklocs that work with thin enough wires I'd definitely like one. Makes it easy to adjust the length, I'd think. Still need something to attach both ends, but that should not be that tricky. Any chance You also stock the plastic door rod end pieces? Somebody had those recently, I seem to recall.

Hi mate


Ill have a lock for you......You need one per side as you loop the cable so you could just have a small hole drilled into the channel in an unobscured place...

I did have some of the rod clips but gave them away...I think TVR parts may have some but you could try these...They are worth buying just to see...

http://www.vehicleclips.co.uk/vw-door-lock-rod-con...

The company i bought them from was based in America and the fitment was Ford.....I can't seem to find it at the mo as i cleaned up my iCrap onto a flash drive so will check that....


Ahhh...Just remembered...Clipsandfasteners.
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/GM_Door_Lock_Rod_...

Check the size though....

Edited by mrzigazaga on Sunday 28th August 14:12

[Rockettvr]

adam quantrill said:

How do you get it on there - is there an onvious 'ole to squirt into?

Sounds like a job I should do too.

From memory I think I drilled a couple of small(3mm) holes in the motor housing to let the wd40 in/out

[marcus1875]

Is one of these any use to you? Two N/S and two O/S.
However, one doesnt work. Dont know which one, but if you want one, i'll check first.
Marcus

[pasogrande]

When I replaced mine on my US spec 280i, I was told that part number MTC8477 is the wrong one; that I need MUC2322. They look about the same.

My MUC2322 came without the "rubber" insert. I had some Hypalon in my garage and used that. The channel may need to be forcibly widened (large flat blade or similar)

For the cable, I went to a bicycle shop and bought a 4 foot length of cable, which had a nipple on one end. In my fishing tackle box I found a crimping tool and some double crimps, and that created a very strong loop at the end.

Before I started this, I replaced the rusty nuts, bolts and washers with stainless steel that hold the bottoms of the window runners. It was a stack of washers, TVR style. I also cleaned and painted whatever needed it.

Wilf.

[hrepo]

All images I've seen of MUC2322 (and I did compare the various LR bits) show that the scissor roller channels are higher but shallower. The MTC8477 images appear to depict similar size as used in the SD1.

In the other thread someone specifically named MTC8477. Surely both can't be correct? The roller channels look quite different.

Hmmm...

[John042]

Thanks Marcus1875. I've just won the ones on feebay. Kind offer, thankyou. To stop the window at the top of the travel mine has a chain attached to the bottom of the window guide as well as the bent over teeth on the quadrant. What stops the down operation of the motor? J C.

[Wedg1e]

adam quantrill said:

Rangey ones definitely work and I've seen people post up about defender ones being OK too.

Something to attach the bike cable? Why not use an electrical terminal, M6, screw end, pass the cable through the small hole in a loop then clamp the cable to itself - you can do that with a bolt with a hole drilled thought the side near the head, pass the cable through both ways and clamp with a nut.

Well there are any amount of crimp, solder and screw fittings that can be attached to steel cable ends... fisherman make steel traces for sea fishing and tackle shops sell the bits to attach all sorts to all other sorts. Then there's Bowden cables from the tiny ones used in fibrescope articulation, via bicycles brakes and motorcycle throttles up to the steering gear on boats etc. etc... depends on how creative you want to get.
ISTR Vehicle Wiring Products do a few fittings for m/cycle Bowden cables.

[John042]

Thanks Ian. Mine just has, what looks like a toliet chain attached to the bottom runner What stops the motor at the bottom, window openning? Other than releasing the switch? J C.

[Wedg1e]

John042 said:

Thanks Ian. Mine just has, what looks like a toliet chain attached to the bottom runner What stops the motor at the bottom, window openning? Other than releasing the switch? J C.

I think it's just that the scissor arms overlap each other and stall the motor...? Not really thought about it.

When I worked in car security 23+ years ago the alarm makers started adding window control modules so that the alarm could close all the windows when you armed it. Most of them included current-sensing circuitry to detect when the glass hit comething, ironically long before the car makers themselves introduced it (and then largely due to a number of incidents where kids and pets stuck their head out and accidentally pressed the 'close' button).
There were also sunroof and soft-top control modules so the alarm could perform 'total closure'; I seem to recall the wiring could get horrifically messy

[John042]

Thanks Ian. I think you're right. No such luxury as limit switch in the motor. Hopefully the ones I purchased on feebay will be OK. I might experiment drilling holes, as suggested, and squirting some contact treatment inside to see if it works. At the moment, even with direct 12v it fails either at fully open or closed. A club hammer works in 99% cases! Cheers J C.

[John042]

Fleabay motor fitted with much swearing and fibre cut wrists and working great. Fastest drivers window in the SW. Makes the passenger one look slow, but have a spare for that one now. Will now turn my attention to the removed motor to see if it can be repaired. Cheers J C.

[hrepo]

marcus1875 said:

Is one of these any use to you? Two N/S and two O/S.
However, one doesnt work. Dont know which one, but if you want one, i'll check first.
Marcus

They would be of use to me. I think mine has a working motor, but the scissor assembly is surprisingly badly rusted on the passenger side.

So, I could use either the duff motor one if it is the passenger side one, or then a working one for the same side. I don't know if it is possible or sensible to replace only the motor.

So... Still have those around? Willing to part with one? Preferably the working one so won't have to mess with the motor replacement.