AFM adjustment

AFM adjustment

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Discussion

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Monday 5th December 2016
quotequote all
Right I'm fed up waiting for a rolling road session for the 390 so I'm going to have a play with the AFM myself. Currently with the modified ECU and Jag AFM the engine runs horrible rich. I've read two articles on adjustment and the info differs. Can someone confirm that it's anti clockwise to weaken the mixture. There's a conflicting you tube video that says anti clockwise riches? Thanks.

gmw9666

2,735 posts

200 months

Tuesday 6th December 2016
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Only effects idle remember

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Tuesday 6th December 2016
quotequote all
Glen, it's the main wheel I'm playing with not the idle screw. The AFM is off a 4.2 Jag so I need less fuel/ weaker mix. Two written articles say that by rotating wheel anticlockwise this weakens the mix. There is however an American video which states the opposite.

RubbishFettler

134 posts

117 months

Tuesday 6th December 2016
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If I remember correctly when I did mine, I'm sure it was clockwise to slacken the spring and weaken mixture.

B@man

1,486 posts

204 months

Tuesday 6th December 2016
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RubbishFettler said:
If I remember correctly when I did mine, I'm sure it was clockwise to slacken the spring and weaken mixture.
I only did this last year, with the Jag AFM as jag intended to AFR was way too lean once the cold start enrichment is removed by the 4CU.

I think the above is correct, its certainly a case of allowing the wiper to move further along it's track so you need to reduce spring tension as for the 4.2 jag it's expecting more airflow (Sorry just re read your post, if it's rich you need more spring tension) I also found that it's not a case moving it a few clicks, it was pretty much a full rotation and then start trying to fine tune. On the 400SE I found that the idle bypass ends up fully closed too and as with everything it's a compromise. Mines now a bit too rich under warm up (12 - 13 AFR) OK under load but goes a bit lean when in traffic (AFR 15 - 17), the fix I have in mind is to stick a resistor in parallel with the CTS to fool the ECU into giving less warm up enrichment and then tweak the AFM again, however I've not tried that yet.

rev-erend

21,408 posts

284 months

Wednesday 7th December 2016
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Just mark tipex on both sides .. then move to the right, if the revs have risen its leaner.. if not try to the left.

You can always go back to what you started with.

For any kind of accuracy you really need an AFT guage or 4 gas analyser.

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
Just mark tipex on both sides .. then move to the right, if the revs have risen its leaner.. if not try to the left.

You can always go back to what you started with.

For any kind of accuracy you really need an AFT guage or 4 gas analyser.
Well re-fitted the Tornado ECU and jag AFM, marked the starting spot and then rotated the AFM wheel clockwise, which tightened the spring and actually richened the mixture - engine ran like a dog. Rotated anti-clockwise about half a turn past original start point, revs picked up, engine ran sweeter and now it ticks over beautifully, starts on the button and revs its nuts off without a hiccup. Exhaust was blowing very smoky when revved but now no noticeable smoke. I know I'll need to get it set properly on an analyser but feeling much happier now that it is behaving.

Before I started fiddling with it, at tick-over if I gently manually opened the flap a few mm on the AFM then revs rose, hence assuming mixture was too rich. Winding it leaner, when I opened the flap the revs died a little. Where it is now set the revs rise marginally for a few seconds and then settle. Very similar to setting the mixture on an old SU carb!

Happy days, apart from stinking of exhaust fumes - it was way too wet to park the car outside the garage.

rev-erend

21,408 posts

284 months

Saturday 10th December 2016
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Glad it sorted it for you.

There is a mixture screw on the AFM but it runs out of adjustment very quickly.

pieeater

56 posts

103 months

Monday 12th December 2016
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the screw on the original afm was roughly 2.5 turn out from fully closed. clockwise on afm spring stiffens the spring leans mixture. jag afm spring will be very stiff to run a 350i that will make it run rough so loosening the spring will be the wright way to go. speaking to mark adams he says the flap should open to i think around 99.3 to 99.7% at full load.not easy to achieve without proper equipment. some people think that if the flap opens more then the more air you get. when really it tells ecu more fuel please. just bought a jag afm and just checked the screw on it and is just over 3 turns out. vintage model airplane as a great section on the afm.

pieeater

56 posts

103 months

Monday 12th December 2016
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so when using a jag afm set as is, should be really lean not rich and make the 350i run completely wrong.maybe this is why you thought it was running rich when it actually made the car just run crap. this is what i have learned over the last year with my 350i that as had lots of problems. jag afm for me soon as i am having my ecu remapped by tornado. hope that helps anyone looking into the flapper afm.

Wedg1e

26,799 posts

265 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
pieeater said:
hope that helps anyone looking into the flapper afm.
Fairly pointless on a 350i as even on a 390SE you can get enough airflow through the standard one, and enough fuel through the standard injectors...

The quickest way to set the AFM spring is to adjust it so that the voltage seen by the ECU at idle is what it would expect to see, i.e. not rich or weak. Certainly between the 3.5 and 3.9 there's very little difference.

pieeater

56 posts

103 months

Monday 12th December 2016
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when i spoke to Mark Adams at tornado he said that fitting a jag afm should release about 12 brake at top end and 15lb/ft

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
pieeater said:
when i spoke to Mark Adams at tornado he said that fitting a jag afm should release about 12 brake at top end and 15lb/ft
That's also what he told me, hence the upgrade to the Jag AFM. Time and rolling road will tell..... whistle

rev-erend

21,408 posts

284 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
Keep us posted on that one.

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
Keep us posted on that one.
Only been waiting 8 months for a RR date - don't hold your breath!

I did spend several hours on Sunday tinkering with the AFM settings. I had set it up so that by opening the flap a small amount the engine idle speed increased for a second or two and then settled. A quick blast around the block and pulled the plugs out and they were way too lean. I then subsequently backed the AFM wheel back clockwise, 4 teeth at a time. The idle revs dropped off a little but each time I went around the block the plugs were looking a better colour. I reckon two more runs and I should be there or thereabouts. Engine ticks over nicely now, pulls like a train and pops nicely on the over run which it didn't do when on the lean side. I'm also going to plug in an old Gunsons colour tune on Saturday to see how that looks. Old and very course I know but it should give an indication of the fuel/air mix in the engine. I'm getting there.

mrzigazaga

18,553 posts

165 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
Forgive my ignorance but have you had the 4CU ECU modified?..I always thought the 4CU wasn't mappable?..I know of people with the Tornado chip but they have hotwire and the 14CUX....

gmw9666

2,735 posts

200 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
Forgive my ignorance but have you had the 4CU ECU modified?..I always thought the 4CU wasn't mappable?..I know of people with the Tornado chip but they have hotwire and the 14CUX....
It can if your name is Mr Adams

mrzigazaga

18,553 posts

165 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
gmw9666 said:
mrzigazaga said:
Forgive my ignorance but have you had the 4CU ECU modified?..I always thought the 4CU wasn't mappable?..I know of people with the Tornado chip but they have hotwire and the 14CUX....
It can if your name is Mr Adams
So you can use Rover-gauge or ECU-mate to map?.....

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
Forgive my ignorance but have you had the 4CU ECU modified?..I always thought the 4CU wasn't mappable?..I know of people with the Tornado chip but they have hotwire and the 14CUX....
Yep Mark Adams has already modified a spare Tornado ECU i had for the 390 to suit the John Eales engine, standard injectors, Jag AFM and V8 developments Stealth camshaft. I do have a standard 390 ECU and AFM I can swap back over in 5 minutes which also runs fine but doesn't seem as frisky as the modified units.

KKson

Original Poster:

3,403 posts

125 months

Monday 12th December 2016
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
So you can use Rover-gauge or ECU-mate to map?.....
No not with the flapper ECU. My understanding is that much of the mapping is actually changing internal resistors. Mark can modify the ECU with external pots so that it is truly adjustable.