Jobs to do while manifolds off?

[Tim-n9ok7]

I have recently purchased a Clive F Y piece and some ACT manifolds to fit to my Chimaera.

While there's space in the engine bay, I'm going to treat the chassis and look for any oily bits, but are there any other jobs to be done while the access is good?

Presumably the fuel lines would be worth changing too for the sake of a few ££.

Any other jobs to add to my list please? (new gaskets and bolts for the manifolds too obviously)

Thanks in advance

[mk1fan]

Get the manifolds and Y peice ceramic coated. Clear is available so you can still get the 'golden syrop' effect.

Renew the heat shield on the boddy?

Paint the enginebay body panels?

Check the brake servo and clutch plumbing?

[s p a c e m a n]

Engine mounts are a lot easier with no exhaust fitted

[bobfather]

Remove and clean up the rocker covers. Check the breather hole on the passenger side cover

[davetripletvr]

Treat any chassis tubes you can see and get to

[Tim-n9ok7]

Thanks for the replies chaps

[N7GTX]

To prevent the nuts or bolts coming loose on the manifolds, fit Nord-Lock washers.

http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/wedge-locking/w...

When fitting the manifolds to the Y piece leave a tiny little bit of slack in the nuts/bolts as there will almost certainly be a gap where the 2 clamps fit. I had to use a strap wrench to pull the manifolds together towards the Y piece in order to fit the clamps.

[blueg33]

N7GTX said:

To prevent the nuts or bolts coming loose on the manifolds, fit Nord-Lock washers.

http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/wedge-locking/w...

When fitting the manifolds to the Y piece leave a tiny little bit of slack in the nuts/bolts as there will almost certainly be a gap where the 2 clamps fit. I had to use a strap wrench to pull the manifolds together towards the Y piece in order to fit the clamps.

I have 18 new unused nordlocks on e bay at present but I can do a deal for ph'ers. They are left over from when I did the same job on the g33

[bobfather]

Nordlock washers work by gripping the surfaces of the manifold and bolt shoulders. It important that you don't use hardened bolts such as ARP as they just slip on the nordlocks as I found. I ended up using a centre punch to distort the ARP shoulders but softer bolts would have worked better

[carsy]

I never had much success with them. I just use a normal spring and flat washer now. They need nipping up a couple of times after first fitting but then seem ok.

[ClassicChimaera]

carsy said:

I never had much success with them. I just use a normal spring and flat washer now. They need nipping up a couple of times after first fitting but then seem ok.

Same here

[TJC46]

Check the top rail on both sides. The one that sits directly below the manifold. Heat from the manifolds and water and crud sprayed up from the front wheel make the perfect combination for rot and rust.

I cleaned mine back to bare metal and repainted. Then covered the area in silicone / and foil faced glass cloth to protect it.

[N7GTX]

ClassicChimaera said:

carsy said:

I never had much success with them. I just use a normal spring and flat washer now. They need nipping up a couple of times after first fitting but then seem ok.

Same here

The original washers needed nipping up every month so fitted the Nord-Locks after a suggestion or two on here. I only fitted 8 to compare and they have been on for around 8 months now. I still have to tighten the originals but the Nord-Locks haven't budged. Time I fitted the others now
Perhaps as Bobfather says, it depends on the hardness of the fixings. The Nord-Lock site confirms this.
http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/wedge-locking/w...

[ClassicChimaera]

N7GTX said:

The original washers needed nipping up every month so fitted the Nord-Locks after a suggestion or two on here. I only fitted 8 to compare and they have been on for around 8 months now. I still have to tighten the originals but the Nord-Locks haven't budged. Time I fitted the others now
Perhaps as Bobfather says, it depends on the hardness of the fixings. The Nord-Lock site confirms this.
http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/wedge-locking/w...

My posts slightly miss leading,,, ive not used Nord Lock ones,,
im just agreeing that on my car anyway, split washer + normal washer nipped up worked for me. I carefully coated both sides of my exhaust gaskets with sealant before assembly.
Nipped up again at about 200 miles and they've been good for about two years.

I might be perverse but I enjoyed doing mine,,,

[s p a c e m a n]

Do the act manifolds come with the bottom holes slotted so you don't have to struggle with the bolts?

[Steve_D]

TJC46 said:

Check the top rail on both sides. The one that sits directly below the manifold. Heat from the manifolds and water and crud sprayed up from the front wheel make the perfect combination for rot and rust.

I cleaned mine back to bare metal and repainted. Then covered the area in silicone / and foil faced glass cloth to protect it.......

Made these the other day ready for my chassis after the refurb. White strips are Velcro and the cable ties will secure the 'Ear' around the suspension polybush.



Steve

[N7GTX]

s p a c e m a n said:

Do the act manifolds come with the bottom holes slotted so you don't have to struggle with the bolts?

...erm...NO

[Tim-n9ok7]

Thanks very much so far everyone. I'm adding to my 'to do' list as items get mentioned.
I managed to loosen all but 4 manifold bolts today. I'm going to remove the whole exhaust next weekend to improve access to remove the two rear lower bolts on the passenger side.