Rough running

Rough running

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Discussion

Wedg1e

26,804 posts

265 months

Thursday 11th April
quotequote all
Good point about the spark plugs.
You don't need the heads off to get at the lifters though, just the rocker gear and pushrods.

The RV8 dates from an era before CADCAM techniques allowed designers to create engines with as little material as possible, that's why so many modern engines have head cracks and the like. The Rover is renowned for being able to tolerate massive thermal abuse, largely due to the amount of aluminium in it (one reason you can open the ports out so far). Right to the end, the major components were sand-cast (West Yorkshire Foundries in Leeds were one of my customers until they closed the place, the RV8 was cast alongside the Rolls-Royce 6.75L block - now that is a big lump!).

So the Rover heads rarely need skimming for thermal distortion, it's more usually corrosion or attempts to jack up the compression ratio etc.
Block cracks are always a possibility but more likely a head gasket issue, I'd have thought.
I used the RPI-recommended composite gasket at my last rebuild, that was in 2001.

If you were a bit closer I'd drop in and help you wave some spanners biggrin


mrzigazaga

18,557 posts

165 months

Thursday 11th April
quotequote all
Hi

I had an issue a couple of times with the 350i when it started running really bad and stinking of fuel, this was the ECU plug slightly out of its socket, the last pin is for injectors (13 iirc) make sure the connection is firmly home with a click, might be worth cleaning the contacts, male/female...I also had a time when the rough running, like really lumpy idle almost stalling and a sma=ell of fumes, the crankcase breather had come off (Custom alloy one) make sure your mushroom breather is clear.
hope this helps


(Good to see you back on here Ian smile )

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

242 months

Thursday 11th April
quotequote all
Sound like you're going all in.

If it's a water leak usually you get pressurisation of the water system and loss of coolant - was any of that happening?

If you are replacing head gaskets with composite then I fully recommend Elring ones. If you can afford it too, get the head stud set.

Yeah before head removal turn it over on the starter and inspect/video the rocker movement.

Check the pushrods for bent ones. Britpart do reasonable replacements, but reuse the straight ones.

That breather from the plenum should have been sucking gas from the block. However it can get blocked with carbon nasties. Worth checking.

BlueWedgy

Original Poster:

382 posts

102 months

Thursday 11th April
quotequote all
Hi Guys, many thanks for the inputs, some good pointers and things to look at / consider.

I am halfway through now so will carry on, a bit at a time, when time allows. So far everything looks clean apart from the slight water ingress issue on the drivers bank. The breather is clean and free so is the vent on the passenger bank.

There is so much to take off before I get to the head part. Yet another battle with the manifolds, I have lost count of the amount of times I have had them undone / off. I am also cleaning the bits as I go along. The last person in there looks like they have used Red Hermatite that has failed to cure it is well gunky. That along with the remnants of blue paint flaking is a mission to stop bits falling in where I don't want it.

Once I get to the heads-off bit, I will post back, if there are any findings related to gaskets or other bits.

BTW I am embarrassed to say that the garage is a bit of tip at the mo so more than one person in there would be a squeeze whistle

Cheers

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

242 months

Friday 12th April
quotequote all
Just to be clear, when I was talking about the breather, I mean the entire pipe from plenum to breather, PLUS the passageway in the plenum that goes round 2 right angles. Usually blowing down either reveals a blockage (or not).

BlueWedgy

Original Poster:

382 posts

102 months

Friday 12th April
quotequote all
Hi Adam,

Yes that is what I did originally, the canister (internal gauze), pipe and inlet into the Plenum are all clear. Checked again last night whilst cleaning the Rocker covers. The internal baffles were missing a couple of screws, not sure where they have gone, if they were even put in in first instance.
Will crack on with the strip down Saturday for a few hours. Sotly sofly catch the monkey.
Need to replace the myriad of odd style and size bolts and missing washers, as I go.

Top end gasket set on it's way, all systems go...

Wedg1e

26,804 posts

265 months

Friday 12th April
quotequote all
BlueWedgy said:
BTW I am embarrassed to say that the garage is a bit of tip at the mo so more than one person in there would be a squeeze whistle
Bit of a tip? I wrote the instruction manual hehe




BlueWedgy

Original Poster:

382 posts

102 months

Saturday 13th April
quotequote all
Right complete change of plan, mainly due to the washing machine going wrong with a blocked outlet hose throwing F05 code, now fixed.

Any old how, the heads are staying on for now, the main reason is that flea-bay seller picture for a top gasket set did not match the item sent, but gave me a full refund and I keep the set sent.

The inlet manifold is off as I will continue to look into the tappety side of things.
I will hold my hand up to this. The drivers side cylinder towards the firewall (8) had the little rubber bung the sits inside the plug socket attached, what a complete amateur, so I assume that the plug was not making contact with the lead (perhaps on the odd occasion it did). I never noticed at the time of spark plug change - doh banghead

I have again retested all the injectors with the leads as they sit in the engine. all produced a good similar pattern apart from number 2 that just dumped fuel for fun.
@Wedg1e how easy would it be for you to part with a spare?

Many thanks

Edited by BlueWedgy on Saturday 13th April 17:31

Wedg1e

26,804 posts

265 months

Saturday 13th April
quotequote all
I'm sure that could be arranged, PM me... but you could also try the old 'clout it with a screwdriver handle while rapidly switching it on and off' trick: it worked a treat on Hottie's car back in the day (it hadn't run in 15 years and all the injectors were stuck closed, took about 10 minutes to persuade them into action). That said, for it to stick open suggests there's some cr@p in it that might not move, or maybe the closing spring has broken, but could be worth a try.

Edit: hang on, don't PM me... the email address registered with PH hasn't worked for a few years (ntlworld, bought by Virgin who I fell out with and closed my account so as time goes by they've been spotting my old addresses and closing them down). The one remaining addy is the one on my website, which is in my PH profile... if that makes sense. It too must be on borrowed time though.
Meanwhile I'll email management and get my profile address changed.

Jesus, bloody typos



Edited by Wedg1e on Saturday 13th April 18:44

BlueWedgy

Original Poster:

382 posts

102 months

Saturday 13th April
quotequote all
Yes tried banging running brake fluid through it. It shuts off OK just passes shed loads of fuel when open probably double the amount of the others.
If it helps I think I am contactable via my profile?

Wedg1e

26,804 posts

265 months

Saturday 13th April
quotequote all
Of course you are, we already discussed the 3D printing by email a few weeks ago smile