What's happening in your garage this weekend ?
Discussion
Just bits and pieces this weekend, I've had man flu so didn't feel up to anything too taxing 
Finally fitted the fuel pump, new filter and the remaining hose sections. The fuel pump is usually rubber-mounted to the chassis to keep the vibes down but someone had evidently lost some of the rubbery bits in the past and the pump bracket had been hard against the mounting plate... I made new rubbery bits (which of course involved making another wad punch first) and even the little tube spacers that sit inside them. Pump is now suitably isolated and all I need to do is throw a few litres of petrol in and bypass the pump relay to refill the lines. Assuming nothing leaks I then need to refit and seal the little GRP filler panel on the offside that stops water being thown up into the cabin via the filler pipe orifice - Sikaflex 291i is the dog's goolies for weather sealant in my experience: we've used it on mobile darkroom cabins used on oil rigs. It's not silicon but polyurethane based. I also think I'll underseal the fuel tanks as well; too much protection is better than not enough (there's a condom advertising slogan for you ).
Meanwhile some 3/8" UNF nuts I ordered from an Ebay seller failed to arrive so I can't get the brake flexi hose fitted... and I've just realised, having rebuilt the bloody diff, that I meant to change the bolts on the r/h output flange but forgot, so now not only do I have to partially strip the diff again but the only place I can find that sells the (application-specific) bolts wants FORTY QUID a set of 8! Still, if the alternative involves the driveshaft and diff parting company I know which I (begrudgingly) prefer...
Finally fitted the fuel pump, new filter and the remaining hose sections. The fuel pump is usually rubber-mounted to the chassis to keep the vibes down but someone had evidently lost some of the rubbery bits in the past and the pump bracket had been hard against the mounting plate... I made new rubbery bits (which of course involved making another wad punch first
) and even the little tube spacers that sit inside them. Pump is now suitably isolated and all I need to do is throw a few litres of petrol in and bypass the pump relay to refill the lines. Assuming nothing leaks I then need to refit and seal the little GRP filler panel on the offside that stops water being thown up into the cabin via the filler pipe orifice - Sikaflex 291i is the dog's goolies for weather sealant in my experience: we've used it on mobile darkroom cabins used on oil rigs. It's not silicon but polyurethane based. I also think I'll underseal the fuel tanks as well; too much protection is better than not enough (there's a condom advertising slogan for you ).Meanwhile some 3/8" UNF nuts I ordered from an Ebay seller failed to arrive so I can't get the brake flexi hose fitted... and I've just realised, having rebuilt the bloody diff, that I meant to change the bolts on the r/h output flange but forgot, so now not only do I have to partially strip the diff again but the only place I can find that sells the (application-specific) bolts wants FORTY QUID a set of 8! Still, if the alternative involves the driveshaft and diff parting company I know which I (begrudgingly) prefer...
Mr WST said:
Megasquirt - I cant praise this upgrade enough. Throttle respose in every gear, noticable power throughout the range and i still keep the pops and bangs!
If you are sitting on the fence re this upgrade, then i would get it done.
Thack
I must admit I'll be going this way at some point, next time I'm in the states a MS2 kit will be heading back with me....If you are sitting on the fence re this upgrade, then i would get it done.
Thack
Mr WST said:
Cars just going in for new shocks and full interior refurbished. Once it's complete will post some pics
Cheers
what spring / shocks did you decide on.......my adjusters are seized solid as are the height adjustment on the rears so will be looking to change over the winterCheers
Attempted to refit refurbed steering rack and knocked a load of paint of the chassis in the process, I'm not sure if it wasn't prepped properly mixed properly or what but it looks like it's all going to have to come off joy... Now looking at getting it powdercoated.
Anyone know what a wedge bare chassis weighs ?
Anyone know what a wedge bare chassis weighs ?
After spending £350 getting the chassis collected, shot blasted and returned and spending £70 on two pack epoxy paint + god knows how many hours with a paintbrush I've had a quote of £150 (ish) to take the poxy s
t off and powder coat the complete chassis !
Should have phoned www.powderandpaint.info 3 months ago -
t off and powder coat the complete chassis !Should have phoned www.powderandpaint.info 3 months ago -
B@man said:
Anyone know what a wedge bare chassis weighs ?
When Mick (FrenchTVR as he was) bought a spare chassis from up here, I collected it and drove it down to Leicester Forest services where we swapped it from the trailer I had, to the Luton van he'd brought.Neither of us bust our plums to move it so I'd guess not much more than 120-150Kg.
Wedg1e said:
B@man said:
Anyone know what a wedge bare chassis weighs ?
When Mick (FrenchTVR as he was) bought a spare chassis from up here, I collected it and drove it down to Leicester Forest services where we swapped it from the trailer I had, to the Luton van he'd brought.Neither of us bust our plums to move it so I'd guess not much more than 120-150Kg.
Stu
hallsie said:
Wedg1e said:
B@man said:
Anyone know what a wedge bare chassis weighs ?
When Mick (FrenchTVR as he was) bought a spare chassis from up here, I collected it and drove it down to Leicester Forest services where we swapped it from the trailer I had, to the Luton van he'd brought.Neither of us bust our plums to move it so I'd guess not much more than 120-150Kg.
Stu
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