What's happening in your garage this weekend ?
Discussion
adam quantrill said:
Don't want to piss on your chips but have you tilted the AFM - won't that affect the flap action?
That's correct, to fit a silicone elbow you've got to tilt itTim at ACT advise this on his web site and I did check with Mark Adams if it would be ok and got the thumbs up
Looking at some SD1 engine pics the flapper AFM looks tilted slightly in OEM design by the looks of it as well
celcius said:
I wonder if the afm would work upside down ?
Eelctrically it wouldn't know any different; the only issue might stem from the weight of the flap itself maybe causing it to rub on the inside of the air channelThe way the flap is installed, its spindle only extends from the top of the flap, up into the chamber with the resistor matrix in it. There's a spring around the spindle trying to force the flap 'upwards' agains the roof of the air channel, while a set of shims around the spindle provide clearance between the flap and the roof. However if the spindle bearings were a bit tired the weight of the flap might displace the bearings allowing the flap to rub.
So in principle no it wouldn't matter, in practice with a worn AFM it might.
There's a pictorial stripdown of an AFM on my site here (link a few lines down the page):
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p3.htm
bradderztvr said:
The Bradderz Bodgit alternative to keep the AFM level = 2 x 90 bends, 2 x clips and a piece of stainless tube to join them !
Roger, did you get your rocker covers and plenum polished? If so did you DIY it or have they been like that since you bought the Wedge all those years ago? Looking at blinging up my plenum and rocker covers. Was thinking of the paint option but polished aluminium also looks good, assuming it doesn't oxidise too quickly.Keith...Trust me its hard work keeping them clean..Oxidisation creeps in almost the second they have been polished..You can keep it down somewhat with a wipe over of WD40 but they require regular cleaning really..Chrome is the way to go if you want that effect but costly..However you would need a bench grinder/Polisher to do a good job..You can use a drill with an attachment but there is a good chance that you will slip and mark the alloy and have to do it all over again..Which is..60-80Grit..Depending on surface condition...120Grit..240Grit..1200Grit..2400Grit or polishing mops and soap...You can go straight in with the 120 if the surface is not too dimpled/Damaged..
Lacquering alloy is a waste of time as again the oxidisation is already setting in as you lacquer them and will go yellow after a period of time...Paint is a good option..There are quite s few variants in the paint now..Crackle is a good one..Metallic..Matt and gloss..The paints i use are VHT and seem to last well...You would also need an alloy primer which is also VHT...Ziga
Lacquering alloy is a waste of time as again the oxidisation is already setting in as you lacquer them and will go yellow after a period of time...Paint is a good option..There are quite s few variants in the paint now..Crackle is a good one..Metallic..Matt and gloss..The paints i use are VHT and seem to last well...You would also need an alloy primer which is also VHT...Ziga
Spent three hours trying to replace the rear brakes on my daily, succeeded in rounding off the "VAG quality" internally splined bolts apparently made of cheese, scraping knuckles and getting a chill to have to put the old stuff back while I order some new calliper mounting bolts - Made me realise that working on the TVR is a joy in comparison to the mass produced s
te...
te...KKson said:
Roger, did you get your rocker covers and plenum polished? If so did you DIY it or have they been like that since you bought the Wedge all those years ago? Looking at blinging up my plenum and rocker covers. Was thinking of the paint option but polished aluminium also looks good, assuming it doesn't oxidise too quickly.
Hi Keith, not exactly polished, and i think they just caught the light of the flash so appear better than they really are. In truth any time a part comes off for maintenance i give it a clean or paint. The plenum was wire brushed with a drill attachment and finishedoff with wire wool, which was done when i replaced the valley gasket. Sounds a bit rough, but works quite well, and i buffed the rockers when i replaced the old cork gaskets a month or so ago. If they aren't too bad, the occassional rub with wire wool works quite well, as long as you don't want a show car standard. 
Making progress... diff remounted to subframe with new bushes, new bolts fitted to o/s output flange, new discs fitted and centralised in calipers, which have been rebuilt (again) with stainless pistons and new seals. Alloy top beam refitted.
All rigid brake lines renewed, handbrake calipers currently being fitted and adjusted. I didn't strip and repaint the brakes again as I didn't want to lose any more momentum (no pun intended
); they may be grubby but they're better than the rusty lumps I took off two and a half years ago...
All rigid brake lines renewed, handbrake calipers currently being fitted and adjusted. I didn't strip and repaint the brakes again as I didn't want to lose any more momentum (no pun intended
); they may be grubby but they're better than the rusty lumps I took off two and a half years ago...Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff