What's happening in your garage this weekend ?
Discussion
"Semi-Serp" conversion - Hopefully !!
Firstly I swapped the V belt drive for a Poly-V drive removed from a serpentine pulley
|https://thumbsnap.com/3hlvmEWx[/url]
Fitted Chim alternator on SD1 mount and stands back in amazement it lines up !!
|https://thumbsnap.com/5kYvOA70[/url]
Custom pulley made up at work, will be anodised once I've confirmed it fits !!
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Firstly I swapped the V belt drive for a Poly-V drive removed from a serpentine pulley
|https://thumbsnap.com/3hlvmEWx[/url]
Fitted Chim alternator on SD1 mount and stands back in amazement it lines up !!
|https://thumbsnap.com/5kYvOA70[/url]
Custom pulley made up at work, will be anodised once I've confirmed it fits !!
[url][url]
This weekend, I'll be mainly wearing... pop up headlight frustration.
My SEAC passed it's mot last week, but the n/s headlamp stayed up and would not retract. It looks like where the arm connects to the pod, the nut on the outside of the pod is scraping up against the body. Trying to raise and lower it then popped the fuse!
Having taken the light out so far I can see the nut needs replacing with something more fitting. That will be tomorrow's job to start.
My SEAC passed it's mot last week, but the n/s headlamp stayed up and would not retract. It looks like where the arm connects to the pod, the nut on the outside of the pod is scraping up against the body. Trying to raise and lower it then popped the fuse!
Having taken the light out so far I can see the nut needs replacing with something more fitting. That will be tomorrow's job to start.
Wayne
Your headlight looks to be mounted lower than mine ..
Sounds like the link rod from raise motor arm to the pod needs tweeking. It should not be anywhere near the body to make contact.
Managed to fix both my headlamp wiring issues. Had to trace the issue back to the other headlight pod.
Your headlight looks to be mounted lower than mine ..
Sounds like the link rod from raise motor arm to the pod needs tweeking. It should not be anywhere near the body to make contact.
Managed to fix both my headlamp wiring issues. Had to trace the issue back to the other headlight pod.
Hi Alan, I had already loosened off the light in the first pic..so it was loose & had dropped down.
The problem is, where the adjustable pivot arm connects to the pod, 'someone' has fitted a large nut to fix it to the pod. So the gap between body and pod had this nut scraping everytime the pod is raised. This in turn is overloading the lifter motor..and it popped the fuse.
I didn't get a chance to play further today, but I'm going to fit a flat captive nut/fixing... which should solve the problem.
The problem is, where the adjustable pivot arm connects to the pod, 'someone' has fitted a large nut to fix it to the pod. So the gap between body and pod had this nut scraping everytime the pod is raised. This in turn is overloading the lifter motor..and it popped the fuse.
I didn't get a chance to play further today, but I'm going to fit a flat captive nut/fixing... which should solve the problem.
Just spent the last 2 hours refitting new over the axle back pipe.
Why is it then when you remove something from a TVR, get a replacement, that looks exactly the same - it doesn't go back on!!
Another knuckle cutting 2 hours tomorrow should see it sorted. If you ever get to change yours, make sure the support brackets are welded on in the right place.
Why is it then when you remove something from a TVR, get a replacement, that looks exactly the same - it doesn't go back on!!
Another knuckle cutting 2 hours tomorrow should see it sorted. If you ever get to change yours, make sure the support brackets are welded on in the right place.
OK - finally fixed the rear brake lights and reversing light problems.
Had to remove the exhaust which is a tough dirty job and take out half the interior to get to the wiring on top of the gearbox.
The brake light issue was caused by the two wires for the reverse switch on the gearbox being switched. Once switched round the brakes worked and fused did not blow.
The reverse issue was harder to solve as you could not see it from below.
As you can see in the picture below - the tab that is arrowed was touching the sensor and popping the fuse when ever reverse was engaged.
Happy days - all the electrics are now working.
I can get back to tuning the beast.
Had to remove the exhaust which is a tough dirty job and take out half the interior to get to the wiring on top of the gearbox.
The brake light issue was caused by the two wires for the reverse switch on the gearbox being switched. Once switched round the brakes worked and fused did not blow.
The reverse issue was harder to solve as you could not see it from below.
As you can see in the picture below - the tab that is arrowed was touching the sensor and popping the fuse when ever reverse was engaged.
Happy days - all the electrics are now working.
I can get back to tuning the beast.
New bulkhead bush fitted, siren re-located so it does not show through bonnet grill, new bonnet badge, rusty screws to steering wheel changed to nice stainless steel ones, air filter cleaned and oiled but still making funny howling noises so going to change for K&N filter, few more bits of fetling done as well, getting there list getting smaller
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