What's happening in your garage this weekend ?

[KKson]

I've had a full day on the 390SE today. First job was to sort out the hesitant starter motor. The starter itself is new but it didn't turn properly. I'd put a direct feed to the solenoid and all was good so the issue lay in the wiring. Found the solenoid feed cable was perished, bodged and jointed in many areas so cut it all out and replaced with new. Also fitted a new relay and it now spins up fine.

One of the front driving lamps had a rusty reflector so I'd managed to find a good second hand one off flea so swapped that out.

Boot lock didn't catch properly so took it all apart and just as well as the cable between solenoid and latch was down to a couple of threads so replaced that, adjusted it all up and now working great.

Boot stays were knackered so fortunately I had a lovely shiny new gas set which the wife won at the BBWF auction last year so put the new set on, adjusted the pressure, and they work a treat even with the SEAC tea tray bolted to the boot.

The back bumper rattled so tightened that up and added a couple of small rubber strips to stop it rubbing the bodywork. They can't be seen unless you are under the car but there's now no noise from the bumper.

Fitted a new set of B7ECS spark plugs and so far no cold start misfire and the engine seems even stronger than last weekend.

A few issues still to sort - the diff has a nasty leak and also this morning there was a hand sized puddle of oil under the engine - not a clue where it's coming from so I need to get that sorted urgently.

The oil warning pressure light doesn't work but oil pressure on the gauge is great but for peace of mind I want the light working. Likewise the handbrake warning light doesn't work but does flicker as I'm driving along.

The car handles terrible. All the suspension bushes are new so I'll get it tracked first to see if that is the issue.

Might even have it reliable and sorted by the summer - but I wont hold my breath!

Edited by KKson on Saturday 30th January 19:20

[KKson]

I've had a full day on the 390SE today. First job was to sort out the hesitant starter motor. The starter itself is new but it didn't turn properly. I'd put a direct feed to the solenoid and all was good so the issue lay in the wiring. Found the solenoid feed cable was perished, bodged and jointed in many areas so cut it all out and replaced with new. Also fitted a new relay and it now spins up fine.

One of the front driving lamps had a rusty reflector so I'd managed to find a good second hand one off flea so swapped that out.

Boot lock didn't catch properly so took it all apart and just as well as the cable between solenoid and latch was down to a couple of threads so replaced that, adjusted it all up and now working great.

Boot stays were knackered so fortunately I had a lovely shiny new gas set which the wife won at the BBWF auction last year so put the new set on, adjusted the pressure, and they work a treat even with the SEAC tea tray bolted to the boot.

The back bumper rattled so tightened that up and added a couple of small rubber strips to stop it rubbing the bodywork. They can't be seen unless you are under the car but there's now no noise from the bumper.

Fitted a new set of B7ECS spark plugs and so far no cold start misfire and the engine seems even stronger than last weekend.

A few issues still to sort - the diff has a nasty leak and also this morning there was a hand sized puddle of oil under the engine - not a clue where it's coming from so I need to get that sorted urgently.

The oil warning pressure light doesn't work but oil pressure on the gauge is great but for peace of mind I want the light working. Likewise the handbrake warning light doesn't work but does flicker as I'm driving along.

The car handles terrible. All the suspension bushes are new so I'll get it tracked first to see if that is the issue.

Might even have it reliable and sorted by the summer - but I wont hold my breath!

Edited by KKson on Saturday 30th January 19:25

[adam quantrill]

Well it's not the weekend but nevertheless in the garage for some emergency fettling tonight.

The throttle cable went luckily only a mile from home (and downhill all the way too.)

I managed to stuff a few bits of cardboard under the throttle stop to raise the revs which was enough to get it the rest of the way - maintained 30 mph in the village too ;^)

It tuned out to be the ferrule I had soldered on quite a few years ago - had come off - so soldered it back on avoiding a snapped bit of braid too. All back up and running ready for tomorrow.

[mrzigazaga]

KKson said:

The car handles terrible. All the suspension bushes are new so I'll get it tracked first to see if that is the issue.

Hi Keith...Definitely get the 4 wheel geo done..Here is some valuable info passed onto me by a fellow Wedger

The tracking should be set at 3.2mm toe-in +/- 1.5mm

Caster: 3.5 - 4.0 deg. pos.
Camber (F) 1.0 deg. neg.
Camber (R) 1.0 - 1.5 deg. neg.
Toe (in) (F) 0.50 deg.
Toe (in) (R) 2MM - don't know why MM not deg!

2mm on 15inch rims = 0.30 degrees = 18 minutes
2mm on 17inch rims = 0.27 degrees = 16 minutes
Either way it's just a smidge toe in.

15 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.24 degrees wheel to vehicle centre-line or 0.48 degrees wheel to wheel.

14 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.26 degrees wheel to vehicle centre-line or 0.52 degrees wheel to wheel.

For the front
toe is 3.2 +/- 1.5mm
camber is 0 +/- 1.2 degres (not adjustable anyway is it?)
caster is 31.2 +/- 0.5 degrees
KPI 6 degrees

For the rear
toe is 4.5mm
camber is 0.5 +/- 0.5 degrees (this seems small as the wheels have a visible camber)

Hope this helps.

Cheers


Ziga

[KKson]

mrzigazaga said:

Hi Keith...Definitely get the 4 wheel geo done..Here is some valuable info passed onto me by a fellow Wedger

The tracking should be set at 3.2mm toe-in +/- 1.5mm

Caster: 3.5 - 4.0 deg. pos.
Camber (F) 1.0 deg. neg.
Camber (R) 1.0 - 1.5 deg. neg.
Toe (in) (F) 0.50 deg.
Toe (in) (R) 2MM - don't know why MM not deg!

2mm on 15inch rims = 0.30 degrees = 18 minutes
2mm on 17inch rims = 0.27 degrees = 16 minutes
Either way it's just a smidge toe in.

15 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.24 degrees wheel to vehicle centre-line or 0.48 degrees wheel to wheel.

14 inch rims 3.2mm toe gives 0.26 degrees wheel to vehicle centre-line or 0.52 degrees wheel to wheel.

For the front
toe is 3.2 +/- 1.5mm
camber is 0 +/- 1.2 degres (not adjustable anyway is it?)
caster is 31.2 +/- 0.5 degrees
KPI 6 degrees

For the rear
toe is 4.5mm
camber is 0.5 +/- 0.5 degrees (this seems small as the wheels have a visible camber)

Hope this helps.

Cheers


Ziga

Mark, many thanks for this. 390SE is being dropped off this Saturday for full set of seals on diff, compression check on all cylinders and 4 wheel alignment, so above info will be very useful. Larger Jag AFM is due on Thursday so I'll have a look at fabricating a suitable bracket to support it and also I need to buy a new suitable air inlet hose from AFM to plenum. Only other job is to refurb the front brake calipers and fit my new greenstuff brake pads. After that it's rolling road time.....

350i rad is being dropped off tomorrow for a re-core. While the rad is out I'm going to sort out the retaining bolts (new stainless ones) and make them captivated so I will not need rear access to the bolts in the future plus I've ordered a can of matching paint so I can tidy up the inner front panel which is a little scratched.

[Number 7]

Been spending the past couple of weeks on and off preparing to replace the O/S cylinder head gasket. Only problem is that a combination of the ARP head studs and the bulkhead extension to which the brake servo and clutch master cylinder are mounted means it is not possible to lift the head more than a couple of inches. Plan B was to withdraw the studs in situ through the head. I managed to remove 2 of the 5 under the rocker cover without any trouble - no tools should be needed as the studs should only be fitted finger tight. Anyway, after trying a couple of the others, and avoiding damaging the threads, the realisation is the the engine must come out. All of the disconnecting of pipes, hoses, wiring, starter, alternator, PS pump, exhaust and intake manifolds, exhaust box etc. etc. is now done ready for delivery to Dan Taylor next week to remove the engine and then the head, and replace the head gasket. I will also have the studs on that bank replaced with conventional head bolts to make future head removal easier.

[rev-erend]

Cleaned the BMW HP4 and took some photos of it. Spent about an hour adjusting the linkage on the throttle bodies to make a bit more room for the back of the air box that I am making. Just received my race licence and entry confirmed for the Brighton speed trial in September. Also got the Emerald Ecu back. So need to make some wiring changes.

[adam quantrill]

Number 7 said:

Plan B was to withdraw the studs in situ through the head. I managed to remove 2 of the 5 under the rocker cover without any trouble - no tools should be needed as the studs should only be fitted finger tight. Anyway, after trying a couple of the others, and avoiding damaging the threads, the realisation is the the engine must come out.

Couldn't you find a pair of thinner UNF nuts - if you tighten then against each other then wouldn't that give enough purchase on the remaining studs to get them out (and not damage the threads)?

[Number 7]

adam quantrill said:

Couldn't you find a pair of thinner UNF nuts - if you tighten then against each other then wouldn't that give enough purchase on the remaining studs to get them out (and not damage the threads)?

Would be very very difficult with the 2 outer studs under the rocker, and pretty much impossible with the rear-most outer row, so unfortunately, it's engine out time.

[rev-erend]

Cant you just disconnect the exhaust manifolds and drop the engine (wood on sump) to allow enough space for the head extraction.

[adam quantrill]

Actually you can move the engine forward about 4-6" (undo the manifold unions) which does increase the space available.

But with the studs that are remaining yes it might be quite difficult to lift he head off still. I'm pretty sure even with the engine forward I put the two rearmost ones in afterwards (mine have hex sockets so not that difficult.)

[Number 7]

Thanks for the suggestions Guys. Aside from all of the other factors, I don't have an engine crane, so I'd rather leave it to a pro. Wouldn't be keen on resting the entire weight of the engine on the sump either, especially as I've just re-sealed it to cure a leak.

[rev-erend]

Spurned on by the impending wedge fest and the fact I have an entry for the Brighton Speed trial - I have made some progress on the wedge.

ECU has been reconfigured by Emerald for 4 pairs of injector firing .. I gave up on the idea of 4 * 4 injector with upper and lower banks of injectors, as my wild M256 cam would have made low speed running and MOT emissions a night mare.

So - the loom had to be changed :


Next - I needed to make an airbox, as I need some air filtration. My preference is not to have a big air scoop in the bonnet .. so twin cool air feeds will be from under the car. Here is my initial go at the airbox .. it is still work in progress but its getting there pretty fast.



I would have liked it to be bigger but I need to have access to the throttle linkages and rocker covers - as this design means I would need to remove the entire airbox for every job on the car .. which is not ideal.

Blue tape is to stop the resin running out onto rocker covers etc..

Edited by rev-erend on Wednesday 9th March 21:24

[adam quantrill]

Spending a few hours installing a new supercharger belt, but it's a bit too slack, so investigating why and what fettling I can do to sort that out.

[rev-erend]

adam quantrill said:

Spending a few hours installing a new supercharger belt, but it's a bit too slack, so investigating why and what fettling I can do to sort that out.

If you run out of adjustment, a shorter belt is the only solution.

Gates are one of the better brands.

[KKson]

Only Wedge related work this weekend was limited.... Art time on the beach at Tenby.

[B@man]

Changed both rear springs from 325Lb (best not ask) to a more sensible 225lb so I actually have some rear suspension, also extended the injection loom to suit the Jag AFM, first start up went well until the warm up enrichment stopped and it's now running very lean even with the idle bypass fully closed and a bit more fuel pressure so need to reduce the tension on the AFM spring to get more fuel in - TBH I was quite surprised it actually started !

[adam quantrill]

rev-erend said:

If you run out of adjustment, a shorter belt is the only solution.

Gates are one of the better brands.

You know, sometimes the answer is so obvious you can't take it on board even though it's staring you in the face!

Cheers, Alan.

So the original belt is 170 x 8mm teeth = 1360mm.

If you drop a tooth a at a time that's 1352mm, then 1344mm. And someone makes both sizes! They are a bit rare though and unfortunately not Gates. Still, it's worth a try.

Also the latest one I've fitted, an Optimax, is making "fizzy" noises, it sounds like I've got a turbo AND a supercharger under there ;^)

Edited by adam quantrill on Monday 14th March 19:23

[B@man]

Bracket needs a bit of a tidy and some powdercoat...

Edited by B@man on Friday 18th March 14:42

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Simon...Is the new AFM mounted further back on the original bracket?