What's happening in your garage this weekend ?
Discussion
Taking of "The step back was an oil leak on the valley gasket and one stuck rear brake calliper"
Anyone know where I can get the correct rubbers for the valley gasket and a good person to refurbish the rear brake calipers.
Any picures for rear brake removal appreciated as I've never do that job before.
Anyone know where I can get the correct rubbers for the valley gasket and a good person to refurbish the rear brake calipers.
Any picures for rear brake removal appreciated as I've never do that job before.
d ratingIf it's just the end rubbers you might be able to prise it up a little and fit them under. I don't bother with hylomar on the valley rubbers.
There are two types depending on your block, the gasket kits usually come with the more modern rubber moulding which doesn't fit the old blocks.
There are two types depending on your block, the gasket kits usually come with the more modern rubber moulding which doesn't fit the old blocks.
It's new block type. 4 bolt mains. Long nose crank. Top hat liners etc..
Looks like I don't have to remove the tbs or inlet manifolds..awkward but not impossible.
Had rear end in the air so leak may be exaggerated but you ignore oil leaks at your peril. So I'd better sort it along get with the rear brakes.
Looks like I don't have to remove the tbs or inlet manifolds..awkward but not impossible.
Had rear end in the air so leak may be exaggerated but you ignore oil leaks at your peril. So I'd better sort it along get with the rear brakes.
One tip Alan, it worked for me...
Replace the bolts that hold the curved valley gasket clamps with a length of studding and a nut - you can then get a much higher torque on the fixing without fear of stripping the threads. Tightening the valley clamps when the engine was hot fixed the leak on mine, a couple of flats on the nuts did the trick. And you can do this without taking the inlet manifold off (again...).
Replace the bolts that hold the curved valley gasket clamps with a length of studding and a nut - you can then get a much higher torque on the fixing without fear of stripping the threads. Tightening the valley clamps when the engine was hot fixed the leak on mine, a couple of flats on the nuts did the trick. And you can do this without taking the inlet manifold off (again...).
The Hatter said:
One tip Alan, it worked for me...
Replace the bolts that hold the curved valley gasket clamps with a length of studding and a nut - you can then get a much higher torque on the fixing without fear of stripping the threads. Tightening the valley clamps when the engine was hot fixed the leak on mine, a couple of flats on the nuts did the trick. And you can do this without taking the inlet manifold off (again...).
Thanks for the tip.Replace the bolts that hold the curved valley gasket clamps with a length of studding and a nut - you can then get a much higher torque on the fixing without fear of stripping the threads. Tightening the valley clamps when the engine was hot fixed the leak on mine, a couple of flats on the nuts did the trick. And you can do this without taking the inlet manifold off (again...).
BTW - I dont have a single manifold, its a pain of manifolds with throttle bodies and no need to remove them as the valley gasket is accessible without manifold removal.
OK so it was last weekend.....
Dragged the workbench I acquired from work a year ago into the garage, stapled some PVC sheet under the roof joists to keep the detritus off the car, wired up 3 of my bargain LED battens and stuck some OSB to the wall so things don't vanish off the back of bench.
Then finalised the design for a replacement "Toy House"
Main reason for buying this house was the amount of land that came with it !
Dragged the workbench I acquired from work a year ago into the garage, stapled some PVC sheet under the roof joists to keep the detritus off the car, wired up 3 of my bargain LED battens and stuck some OSB to the wall so things don't vanish off the back of bench.
Then finalised the design for a replacement "Toy House"
Main reason for buying this house was the amount of land that came with it !
Just got my tyres fitted so whacking the wheels back on later.
Also checked the front brake pads - not quite ready to be changed, they have a few more months left to go, the MOT man was being overcautious on the advisory saying they were thin. Swapped one pair over though as the wear was higher on one side.
Also checked the front brake pads - not quite ready to be changed, they have a few more months left to go, the MOT man was being overcautious on the advisory saying they were thin. Swapped one pair over though as the wear was higher on one side.
gmw9666 said:
Can you not go a tad bigger?
Wedge is 4.2m ish long so you've only got about 350mm each end. Fine for parking but for working / tinkering a tad more would make life easier
I Wish I could but that's the width of my garden ! I was looking to build a block garage but by the time you take off gutter overhang, block width, insulation etc. My 159 wouldn't fit at all. The Blue Spider in the 3D model is scaled to the wedge Dimensions, unfortunate nobody had a 3D model for the TVR wedge. With a set of dolly wheels I can turn the second car 45 degrees to gain more space if I need it. Wedge is 4.2m ish long so you've only got about 350mm each end. Fine for parking but for working / tinkering a tad more would make life easier
adam quantrill said:
Just got my tyres fitted so whacking the wheels back on later.
Also checked the front brake pads - not quite ready to be changed, they have a few more months left to go, the MOT man was being overcautious on the advisory saying they were thin. Swapped one pair over though as the wear was higher on one side.
What tyres did you get in the end ?Also checked the front brake pads - not quite ready to be changed, they have a few more months left to go, the MOT man was being overcautious on the advisory saying they were thin. Swapped one pair over though as the wear was higher on one side.
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