Discussion
One of my winter projects is to fit a fan overide switch. I'm not much of an electrician so I'm going to need some help on this one.
What I plan to do is to buy another Fog Light switch and use that as it has a light to remind me its on when I dont need it. It will also fit into a covered recess and won't look out of place in amongst all of the other switches.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
What I plan to do is to buy another Fog Light switch and use that as it has a light to remind me its on when I dont need it. It will also fit into a covered recess and won't look out of place in amongst all of the other switches.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Mine shorts out the otter switch so a low powered switch and cable. 6 amp. 2 lucar piggy backs. Switch housing. Fitted the switch under the dash next to my bonnet pull, made the bracket for the switch out of a gash bit of ally lying around. I fitted it next to the bonnet pull as the was a handy nut and bolt to hold the bracket and made sure my knee would not try to cut itself on it. I will fit the lamp shortly but use a LED.
PS I measured the cable against the route through the car, from front to cabin, then cut to suit. Then using insulating tape I wrapped the pair together along the whole lenght and tied in place along the route.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 14th October 15:14
PS I measured the cable against the route through the car, from front to cabin, then cut to suit. Then using insulating tape I wrapped the pair together along the whole lenght and tied in place along the route.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 14th October 15:14
p77 of the Wedge 'bible' shows you how.
As mine was wired somewhat differently, my LED indicates that the relay is on (it's across the 30/87 terminals), and if the temperature falls, that indicates the fan is working
.
The LED also glows owing to the back EMF when the motor is turned by the air coming through the rad at speed.
Streaky
As mine was wired somewhat differently, my LED indicates that the relay is on (it's across the 30/87 terminals), and if the temperature falls, that indicates the fan is working
. The LED also glows owing to the back EMF when the motor is turned by the air coming through the rad at speed.
Streaky
The tidiest way to do this is to identify which relay(s) actually switch the fan(s) and arrange to feed the relay coil(s) from the override switch. Of course this presumes that the relays themselves don't fail: my car has one fan powered by two relays in parallel so it is unlikely (though not impossible) that they would both fry.
The belt'n'braces method is to duplicate all the wiring from the battery, via fuse, switch and direct to the fan.
As discussed umpteen times before, the LED is only going to tell you that power is on to the fan, not that the fan is actually turning. I have proposed a couple of ideas of how best to do this; some folk have shot me down over it but since one of my jobs is designing radiation safety systems, I work on the principle that a light being lit proves absolutely nothing
Ian
The belt'n'braces method is to duplicate all the wiring from the battery, via fuse, switch and direct to the fan.
As discussed umpteen times before, the LED is only going to tell you that power is on to the fan, not that the fan is actually turning. I have proposed a couple of ideas of how best to do this; some folk have shot me down over it but since one of my jobs is designing radiation safety systems, I work on the principle that a light being lit proves absolutely nothing
Ian
Thanx guys. I've got the wedge bible and have a look at page 77.
The rad is re-cored to a 4 row and stays nice a and cool when the fan is on, only i cant get the fan to switch off which I suspect must be a faulty otter switch hence the idea of fitting an overide for extra safety when the heat is on.
The rad is re-cored to a 4 row and stays nice a and cool when the fan is on, only i cant get the fan to switch off which I suspect must be a faulty otter switch hence the idea of fitting an overide for extra safety when the heat is on.
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