SAS Breakfast venue
Discussion
Looks like we might have a new Breakfast venue to visit!
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
ph1l5 said:
We should go and watch the Australian G.P starts at 07.00 in the AM next Sunday
Fri 27 March 2009
Friday Practice 1 01:30 - 03:00
Friday Practice 2 05:30 - 07:00
Sat 28 March 2009
Saturday Practice 03:00 - 04:00
Qualifying 06:00
Sun 29 March 2009
Race 07:00
Thats a good shout. I'd be up for Driving up early like and Watching the GP with a decent brekkie.Fri 27 March 2009
Friday Practice 1 01:30 - 03:00
Friday Practice 2 05:30 - 07:00
Sat 28 March 2009
Saturday Practice 03:00 - 04:00
Qualifying 06:00
Sun 29 March 2009
Race 07:00
Dudd said:
ph1l5 said:
We should go and watch the Australian G.P starts at 07.00 in the AM next Sunday
Fri 27 March 2009
Friday Practice 1 01:30 - 03:00
Friday Practice 2 05:30 - 07:00
Sat 28 March 2009
Saturday Practice 03:00 - 04:00
Qualifying 06:00
Sun 29 March 2009
Race 07:00
Thats a good shout. I'd be up for Driving up early like and Watching the GP with a decent brekkie.Fri 27 March 2009
Friday Practice 1 01:30 - 03:00
Friday Practice 2 05:30 - 07:00
Sat 28 March 2009
Saturday Practice 03:00 - 04:00
Qualifying 06:00
Sun 29 March 2009
Race 07:00
ph1l5 said:
Dudd said:
ph1l5 said:
We should go and watch the Australian G.P starts at 07.00 in the AM next Sunday
Fri 27 March 2009
Friday Practice 1 01:30 - 03:00
Friday Practice 2 05:30 - 07:00
Sat 28 March 2009
Saturday Practice 03:00 - 04:00
Qualifying 06:00
Sun 29 March 2009
Race 07:00
Thats a good shout. I'd be up for Driving up early like and Watching the GP with a decent brekkie.Fri 27 March 2009
Friday Practice 1 01:30 - 03:00
Friday Practice 2 05:30 - 07:00
Sat 28 March 2009
Saturday Practice 03:00 - 04:00
Qualifying 06:00
Sun 29 March 2009
Race 07:00
john_r said:
ph1l5 said:
Dudd said:
ph1l5 said:
We should go and watch the Australian G.P starts at 07.00 in the AM next Sunday
Fri 27 March 2009
Friday Practice 1 01:30 - 03:00
Friday Practice 2 05:30 - 07:00
Sat 28 March 2009
Saturday Practice 03:00 - 04:00
Qualifying 06:00
Sun 29 March 2009
Race 07:00
Thats a good shout. I'd be up for Driving up early like and Watching the GP with a decent brekkie.Fri 27 March 2009
Friday Practice 1 01:30 - 03:00
Friday Practice 2 05:30 - 07:00
Sat 28 March 2009
Saturday Practice 03:00 - 04:00
Qualifying 06:00
Sun 29 March 2009
Race 07:00
LordNickless said:
Hi guys, Dave Nickless here.
I`m seeing Raff tomorrow for karting, so I`ll ask him and post back later tomorrow but I imagine he wouldn`t have a problem opening up on the Aussie GP weekend 29th March 09.
Any idea of numbers? Just so I can let him know?
Dave
Good man, Lets get some sort of list going, If the race starts at 07.00 and we want to tie in a small hoon before.I`m seeing Raff tomorrow for karting, so I`ll ask him and post back later tomorrow but I imagine he wouldn`t have a problem opening up on the Aussie GP weekend 29th March 09.
Any idea of numbers? Just so I can let him know?
Dave
1. Phil
You/he will prob be better popping over to the Griff forum. age is not really a factor its more history you should look for. buy with your head not your heart.
Chassis The chassis have a habit of rusting on the outriggers behind the front wheels (especially on the nearside which tends to have a harder time). The factory coating seems to have quite a short life and even a newer car could have problems if poorly maintained. If possible get the car onto a ramp and have a poke around, ensure that the outriggers are solid. Signs of maintenance in the form of paint or waxoyl are a good sign.
Engine Check that the engine starts from cold and will idle without excessive hunting. Once warm ensure that the cooling system is working well. The car should run at around 80 degress while on the move and around 90 when stationary. Oil pressure should be around 25-30lbs. Once you've taken the car for a run leave the engine running and check that the cooling fans kick in at around 90 degrees. Once you're happy with the fans stop the engine and then restart to ensure that it's happy starting when hot, Finally give the oil cap a quick check for mayo.
Bodywork Good news! No rust! Hurrah for fibre glass! This doesn't mean that you can ignore the bodywork. Stone chips are inevitable at the front and so re-sprays are common and nothing to worry about. Just be sure that any respray doesn't cover accident damage and is of a good quality. Panel fit should be quite good but the doors have been known to drop a little. Have a quick look at the windscreen, check for milkiness, delamination, chips or cracks.
Steering & Suspension You can check the springs / dampers by pushing down on each corner. The car should return to it's position in one movement.
Check the front ball joints by rocking the wheel while on the ground. Tyre wear can be a sign of suspension problems so ensure that the tyres we wearing evenly.
Testing the steering by checking for any drift can tricky as the camber of the road can confuse the result. If the can pulls slightly to the left it's probably about right (or 'correct') if it pulls significantly to the right then there may be a problem.
Electrics Test everything so... windows, wipers, locks, alarm, heater fan, lights, indicators, stereo etc... If the dial backlights don't seem to be working check the button under the dash to the left of the steering wheel.
Clutch & Gearbox Be sure that the clutch isn't slipping. Check that the gear change is smooth and precise. The later gearboxes are considered to be the best. Oh and if you get a crunch going into reverse then try going via 5th. (a case of "They all do that sir").
Wheels & Brakes Ensure that the car brakes well and in a straight line. Check the wheels for scuffs. Tyres should be Bridgestone S02/S03s or at least Toyo ZRs, check the tread for excessive or uneven wear. There should be a spacesaver spare or at least some tyre-weld.
Paperwork Servicing should have been conducted at least every year / 6000 miles. Look for stamps from TVR dealers or recognised specialists.
Chassis The chassis have a habit of rusting on the outriggers behind the front wheels (especially on the nearside which tends to have a harder time). The factory coating seems to have quite a short life and even a newer car could have problems if poorly maintained. If possible get the car onto a ramp and have a poke around, ensure that the outriggers are solid. Signs of maintenance in the form of paint or waxoyl are a good sign.
Engine Check that the engine starts from cold and will idle without excessive hunting. Once warm ensure that the cooling system is working well. The car should run at around 80 degress while on the move and around 90 when stationary. Oil pressure should be around 25-30lbs. Once you've taken the car for a run leave the engine running and check that the cooling fans kick in at around 90 degrees. Once you're happy with the fans stop the engine and then restart to ensure that it's happy starting when hot, Finally give the oil cap a quick check for mayo.
Bodywork Good news! No rust! Hurrah for fibre glass! This doesn't mean that you can ignore the bodywork. Stone chips are inevitable at the front and so re-sprays are common and nothing to worry about. Just be sure that any respray doesn't cover accident damage and is of a good quality. Panel fit should be quite good but the doors have been known to drop a little. Have a quick look at the windscreen, check for milkiness, delamination, chips or cracks.
Steering & Suspension You can check the springs / dampers by pushing down on each corner. The car should return to it's position in one movement.
Check the front ball joints by rocking the wheel while on the ground. Tyre wear can be a sign of suspension problems so ensure that the tyres we wearing evenly.
Testing the steering by checking for any drift can tricky as the camber of the road can confuse the result. If the can pulls slightly to the left it's probably about right (or 'correct') if it pulls significantly to the right then there may be a problem.
Electrics Test everything so... windows, wipers, locks, alarm, heater fan, lights, indicators, stereo etc... If the dial backlights don't seem to be working check the button under the dash to the left of the steering wheel.
Clutch & Gearbox Be sure that the clutch isn't slipping. Check that the gear change is smooth and precise. The later gearboxes are considered to be the best. Oh and if you get a crunch going into reverse then try going via 5th. (a case of "They all do that sir").
Wheels & Brakes Ensure that the car brakes well and in a straight line. Check the wheels for scuffs. Tyres should be Bridgestone S02/S03s or at least Toyo ZRs, check the tread for excessive or uneven wear. There should be a spacesaver spare or at least some tyre-weld.
Paperwork Servicing should have been conducted at least every year / 6000 miles. Look for stamps from TVR dealers or recognised specialists.
Edited by ph1l5 on Friday 20th March 23:24
LordNickless said:
just know it must be P reg onwards as has the door look button under the mirror
Really? I'm surprised because Griffs don't have a button under the mirror, they have a small ali' push button behind the top corner of the door. If it's one of the last 100 SE cars and I don't know what they had. Gassing Station | Thames Valley & Surrey | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff