G40R has arrived - Woohoo!
Discussion
Thanks for the responses, will contact the factory on the wing then, the more I look at it the better it looks and if helps on the fumes front then its a bonus.
Mine has roughly 4000 miles on it in two years and may have lost the new car gluey odour but I still get the petrol / oil / exhaust fumes.
Have considered upping the power, am sure she can handled it, just wonder if I could... Fancy a bit of supercharging, being an ealy car presume it's still an mx5 engine.... Only have 5 gears... Wonder when it changed to 6, or is it an option.
Mole valley and Hexham are a lot further away from north wales than the factory so will take her home for a bit of fettling, presumably you just leave it with them rather than turning up for an appointed time and a couple of hours wait... Hopefully they can figure out why she won't start or even turn over when stopped after a run.... Even if I stop for petrol I worry she won't start afterward (happened once, had to push the car off the forecourt in front of two school buses full of kids, not my most enjoyable moment with the car)
Mine also runs rich, have a nice black mark on the garage wall just behind her spot....
Same goes for me on the fuel guage, have resorted to using the odometer and worked out I can get 240 miles from a tank when going easy, 180 if I'm enjoying myself....
Jellinek, lots of info thanks, suspect this is beyond me, so will keep my fingers crossed the factory comes up with something, with my diy skills suspect some mdf fins and sticky tape will not add to the cars looks.
Thanks all for your help
JP
Mine has roughly 4000 miles on it in two years and may have lost the new car gluey odour but I still get the petrol / oil / exhaust fumes.
Have considered upping the power, am sure she can handled it, just wonder if I could... Fancy a bit of supercharging, being an ealy car presume it's still an mx5 engine.... Only have 5 gears... Wonder when it changed to 6, or is it an option.
Mole valley and Hexham are a lot further away from north wales than the factory so will take her home for a bit of fettling, presumably you just leave it with them rather than turning up for an appointed time and a couple of hours wait... Hopefully they can figure out why she won't start or even turn over when stopped after a run.... Even if I stop for petrol I worry she won't start afterward (happened once, had to push the car off the forecourt in front of two school buses full of kids, not my most enjoyable moment with the car)
Mine also runs rich, have a nice black mark on the garage wall just behind her spot....
Same goes for me on the fuel guage, have resorted to using the odometer and worked out I can get 240 miles from a tank when going easy, 180 if I'm enjoying myself....
Jellinek, lots of info thanks, suspect this is beyond me, so will keep my fingers crossed the factory comes up with something, with my diy skills suspect some mdf fins and sticky tape will not add to the cars looks.
Thanks all for your help
JP
Interesting info Jellinek. I can see the vortex generators listed on ebay. Not too expensive - will look cr@p no doubt but worth a try at the price. Maybe they can be fixed to the top of the rear screen as long as they don't obscure the brake lights.
JP - Will post on here if the factory respond with a fix for the fumes.
Ive had starting problems at petrol stations as well! I think the immobiliser ( or maybe its me!) gets confused at times with the power, ign, start sequence. I have seen me lifting the keys out of the tray and starting the sequence again before it plays ball.
As a matter of interest, are all G40Rs running with Jenvey throttle bodies or is this part of the "performance" option?
JP - Will post on here if the factory respond with a fix for the fumes.
Ive had starting problems at petrol stations as well! I think the immobiliser ( or maybe its me!) gets confused at times with the power, ign, start sequence. I have seen me lifting the keys out of the tray and starting the sequence again before it plays ball.
As a matter of interest, are all G40Rs running with Jenvey throttle bodies or is this part of the "performance" option?
Riversides said:
Interesting info Jellinek. I can see the vortex generators listed on ebay. Not too expensive - will look cr@p no doubt but worth a try at the price. Maybe they can be fixed to the top of the rear screen as long as they don't obscure the brake lights.
I would place them on the roof in front of the rear window with a couple of inches between the trailing edge of the generator and leading edge of the rear screen, not on the glass. It will give them the best chance of re-energizing the flow before the roofline drops away. Hope it helps, let us know how it goes if you do decide to tr it.Hi from another new Ginetta G40R owner.
Ive had my car just over three weeks and covered over 200 miles. Its a great car and the experience with the factory has been super.
It was very interesting to read this topic as Ive found many of the same issues. I have the fumes problem, and intermittent electrical faults including the starting problem as mentioned by Riversides, plus my air con will switch itself off randomly.
Im luck that I live only 20 mins away from the factory so my car is going back there for them to fix these problems (plus a few other snags). I can let you know what happens.
Ive had my car just over three weeks and covered over 200 miles. Its a great car and the experience with the factory has been super.
It was very interesting to read this topic as Ive found many of the same issues. I have the fumes problem, and intermittent electrical faults including the starting problem as mentioned by Riversides, plus my air con will switch itself off randomly.
Im luck that I live only 20 mins away from the factory so my car is going back there for them to fix these problems (plus a few other snags). I can let you know what happens.
Hi Simon - good to hear from another owner and a new poster on PH as well - welcome!
Would be great to know how you get on with the factory with some of these issues. With the very nature of the car, there are bound to be some problems - the car is still a huge amount of fun. I wonder how many road registered G40Rs there are in the UK now? Becoming quite common now
!
Would be great to know how you get on with the factory with some of these issues. With the very nature of the car, there are bound to be some problems - the car is still a huge amount of fun. I wonder how many road registered G40Rs there are in the UK now? Becoming quite common now
!simonjwalker said:
It was very interesting to read this topic as Ive found many of the same issues. I have the fumes problem, and intermittent electrical faults including the starting problem as mentioned by Riversides, plus my air con will switch itself off randomly.
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Riversides said:
Ive had starting problems at petrol stations as well! I think the immobiliser ( or maybe its me!) gets confused at times with the power, ign, start sequence. I have seen me lifting the keys out of the tray and starting the sequence again before it plays ball?
Wonder if your problems are the same as mine, have tried the immobiliser key in, out, out for a minute, out for 10 mins and on and on, doesn't seem to make any difference, main symptom is that ther is no power at all, I can't even get to pressing the ignition button when I think it checks for the immobiliser key... When it goes it's absolutely dead, no electrics no indicators, no hazards nowt.... Leave it a couple of hours, sometimes less, and it just springs back into life, as if nothing had happened.So, it's running fine, stop at a petrol station, fill her up, pay then get back to the car and nothing, press the power button, nothing, ignition button, nothing... No indicators, no horn, no nowt.... Think I might have made my point.... It's dead... But not every time I stop, just occasionally enough to annoy
Short time later the dash lights up and it's good to go... Not quite at the point where I won't take her out, but slowly getting there, most trips now either end up at work or back home, sort of sad I can't risk stopping anywhere whilst I'm out, any suggestions?
JP
Oh, well as i understand the procedure, the power button turns the thing on, the ignition preps car (fuel pump etc), then the imoboliser must be switched off before the engine start button does anything, at this point i throw my keys (imob key) into the G holder thing and the engine starts, else engine button does nowt. Even if i shut engine off using ign button and power off car, if i power on car and set ignition on it will still fire up when i then press the engine button without the imob key being present. Guess it is in the 20seconds or so window of the car being un-imobolised.
What I'm trying to say is that you can get quite far in the sequence before the ring/loop behind the console is called into question.
What I'm trying to say is that you can get quite far in the sequence before the ring/loop behind the console is called into question.
JP, you are describing the same problem as I have.
At first I thought it was a flat battery. Then Ive come round to the idea its the immobiliser due to the fact there is plenty of power in the battery.
It happened to me again just yesterday. So I tried removing the fob from the G tray while the power and ignition were still on. Put the fob back in the G tray and then the start button came back to life. I cant say if this works every time or was a fluke?
At first I thought it was a flat battery. Then Ive come round to the idea its the immobiliser due to the fact there is plenty of power in the battery.
It happened to me again just yesterday. So I tried removing the fob from the G tray while the power and ignition were still on. Put the fob back in the G tray and then the start button came back to life. I cant say if this works every time or was a fluke?
Has anybody had the power loss issue with the car running? i.e. with it cutting out for no reason? I doubt it, but thought I'd ask
Also, does the issue only affects starting at petrol stations or certain locations, then it could be something like this....
"Williamsen said an early Toyota smart key application a few years ago showed "occasional interference" when cars were at or near some Exxon and Mobil gasoline stations. It turned out the stations had cardless pay systems which "flooded" their locations with the same radio wave spectrum that the autos were using."
"Meantime, GM engineers realized there are rare spots—at some military sites, near broadcast towers and by airports—where a car could be "in a severe RF [radio frequency] environment" that could affect the Keyless Access system, according to Tom Dutter, lead engineer for Keyless Access. So, they installed a "high-power" bypass inside the car to ensure a driver isn't stranded, he said.
Many tech-wary consumers might wonder if it's all worth it."
Could be something to bear in mind.
Also, does the issue only affects starting at petrol stations or certain locations, then it could be something like this....
"Williamsen said an early Toyota smart key application a few years ago showed "occasional interference" when cars were at or near some Exxon and Mobil gasoline stations. It turned out the stations had cardless pay systems which "flooded" their locations with the same radio wave spectrum that the autos were using."
"Meantime, GM engineers realized there are rare spots—at some military sites, near broadcast towers and by airports—where a car could be "in a severe RF [radio frequency] environment" that could affect the Keyless Access system, according to Tom Dutter, lead engineer for Keyless Access. So, they installed a "high-power" bypass inside the car to ensure a driver isn't stranded, he said.
Many tech-wary consumers might wonder if it's all worth it."
Could be something to bear in mind.
simonjwalker said:
JP, you are describing the same problem as I have.
At first I thought it was a flat battery. Then Ive come round to the idea its the immobiliser due to the fact there is plenty of power in the battery.
It happened to me again just yesterday. So I tried removing the fob from the tray while the power and ignition were still on. Put the fob back in the G tray and then the start button came back to life. I cant say if this works every time or was a fluke?
Well at least I'm not alone, have had it happen all over the place, petrol,station, hairdresser (only popped in for a a quick trim and left her badly parked, yet another embarrassing moment), at home and late on on a trackday at oulton park, so the location is non specific....At first I thought it was a flat battery. Then Ive come round to the idea its the immobiliser due to the fact there is plenty of power in the battery.
It happened to me again just yesterday. So I tried removing the fob from the tray while the power and ignition were still on. Put the fob back in the G tray and then the start button came back to life. I cant say if this works every time or was a fluke?
Have tried taking the key out of the tray, didn't work for me, I can't even get to the ignition immobiliser check, there is no power on the power on button, think the ring around the start button stops flashing as well, but not 100% sure will try to remember next time.
Checked and removed the battery (anybody know how you youd jump start the car if the battery went flat, can't see any way to connect jump leads with the way the battery is fitted), found the fuse on the small wire connected to the positive terminal was a little dodgy with a broken leg, so changed that and thought that was it, but nope after work last week, she was dead, went back 20 mins later the dash buttons lit up and she started fine.....
Also noticed a few other dodgy electric issues... Headlights on full beam, the hazard flashing slows to a crawl and the right hand indicator does not work, the left does but slowly.... Will leave it till winter then try and find the problem, have been advised to look for poor earth connections, probably close to the front of the car.
Other problems... Well I have a leaky radiator, just a weep from the side no damage to the core so must be a faulty radiator, small leak on the back window, boot catches on the bodywork when you open it, heater does heat but doesn't change as you move the control dial, floor mat keeps slipping under the peddles, door locks are a pain in the arse and difficult to lock (do you all have locks that are not actually in the moulded flat of the door that looks like it should have the lock in?) , have an annoying zizzy rattle when the engine is at above 4k revs, the turning circle is almost bus like...... the aircon works and when on song she's rock solid and absolutely flies....
But I still love her and am looking forward to the winter when she'll be partially stripped down and all these issues fixed... If I can figure out how to fix them
JP
Jellinek said:
Has anybody had the power loss issue with the car running? i.e. with it cutting out for no reason? I doubt it, but thought I'd ask
Nope never, once it starts it's brilliant, has run beautifully through biblical torrential rain (I was in fear of my life, first day with the car driving along the M6 with trucks on both sides) and in snow....Chuckled her around on a couple of trackdays and not even a splutter... Totally solid felt bullet proof.
Don't get me wrong, I love the car, but really really don't like irritating faults.... Especially a fault that leaves me unable to use the car as I'd like.... I only have two basic things I need in a car.... that it stops when I want it to (engine and brakes) and starts when I want it to (hhmmmmmm)
JP
Riversides said:
I enjoy everything about the car, except the exhaust fumes finding their way into the cabin - it makes my eyes sting and my clothes smell after any journey. I've tried windows up/down, fan on full/off, aircon on/off but it doesn't make a huge difference. The only thing that has helped slightly is the addition of a GRDC rear wing. I understand that Ginetta are aware of this issue, but I await an answer from them on a suggested solution.
Anyone else experience this problem?
Ive got the demo/prototype G111ETA (orange one) which belongs to Ginetta and ive had it 8 weeks as my car is being in for repairs from the build and its disgraceful the amount of fumes that get in the cabin on this one, its actually a hazard as far as im concerned. Anyone else experience this problem?
After 30-40 mins in the car, head aches and the stink of fuel. I can see several areas that are the reason behind this, the exhaust is tucked under the rear of the car, so the rear diffuser sucks the fumes back into the boot. The way the seal around the steering is located allows air from the engine bay in and the biggest of all there is no fresh air feed into the cabin, the air is fed from the engine bay.
I think they are probably working on a fix in the back ground as its certainly not the right level of fumes for a road car, its fair enough for a track car but not a road car.
Mines a little better but I need to give it a few more miles before I see what its like.
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