Dissassembly of Tuscan is complete... what now????
Discussion
MPETT said:
Something is nagging me and isn't sitting well with me. its the fog light I think. It spoils the balance I think. Honest comments welcomed.
I also agree they do look pretty large in comparison to the overall size of the rear of the car, although not sure how i'd resolve it without changing the lights themselves.
That said... top work alround in getting it done. I'd be really interested to hear how you get on and how much the new dash display is costing you. I've been thinking of something similar for my mk2 pod(seeing as my dash ecu is broken!)
Will it be easy to splice into the loom or is a whole new loom required?
imo the rear end looks too busy, you could do with removing the high or middle pair of lights. the tuscan has flowing curves and i think the lights you have fitted have interrupted that flow. it might be that they are just too big, because the tuscan s that has the same layout but looks better
Well, the TVR POWER 4.3 has been delivered and now its time to get on with the reassembly process.
I managed to get hold of a new and improved thermal blanket, so off came the body again (only a 3" lift this time) and out came the old and in with the new one.
This should keep the wife's feet cool in the summer!
Only got the exhaust heat shield to fit and the gearbox/exhaust manifold to assemeble onto the engine, then its time to put the engine in!!!
I managed to get hold of a new and improved thermal blanket, so off came the body again (only a 3" lift this time) and out came the old and in with the new one.
This should keep the wife's feet cool in the summer!
Only got the exhaust heat shield to fit and the gearbox/exhaust manifold to assemeble onto the engine, then its time to put the engine in!!!
Got me Exhausts all wrapped up. Used the lava wrap stuff. Got it from the US at quite a good price! No itchy hands with this stuff! I've got some left over, so I figured I'd wrap some of the cats housing and downpipes till I run out of wrap.
This plus the new thermal blanket and the bulkhead heat shield I bought should do the trick for keeping cabin/under bonnet temps down.
This plus the new thermal blanket and the bulkhead heat shield I bought should do the trick for keeping cabin/under bonnet temps down.
Edited by MPETT on Sunday 14th October 11:10
Bazil: The cats had been removed already, but there was no heat shield, as in later cars.
I spent the weekend refitting the heat protection. Removing the old stuff is a nasty job. I'd advise that anyone else doing this job should wear a long sleave shirt and mouth/nose portection. Lost of little fibres were flying all over the place!
I'm fairly please with the end result (had to leave before I trimmed the metal cable ties). My only concern is that the original heat protection was a lot thicker (had more glass fibre wadding between bulkhead and reflective coating). I'm hoping that the stuff I have is of a better quality and therefore will perform overall better. If not I could always cut some venting ducts in the scuttle panel below the screen.
I spent the weekend refitting the heat protection. Removing the old stuff is a nasty job. I'd advise that anyone else doing this job should wear a long sleave shirt and mouth/nose portection. Lost of little fibres were flying all over the place!
I'm fairly please with the end result (had to leave before I trimmed the metal cable ties). My only concern is that the original heat protection was a lot thicker (had more glass fibre wadding between bulkhead and reflective coating). I'm hoping that the stuff I have is of a better quality and therefore will perform overall better. If not I could always cut some venting ducts in the scuttle panel below the screen.
My engine mount heat protection treatment. Uses the flexible heat resistant material/fabric I used on the bulkhead and cut a slit in it, then ticked it round the mount. I then used a small bit of the aluminium heat shield, cut a slit in that and pushed that onto the mount. Hopfully there won't be any nasty vibrations from the 2 aluminium shields touching each other as I've bent them away from each other.
Fabric shield
Aluminium heat shield:
p.s. I got bought double the amount I needed!! So, if you haven't got a heat shield and you'd like the same set up I've created, drop m a line
Fabric shield
Aluminium heat shield:
p.s. I got bought double the amount I needed!! So, if you haven't got a heat shield and you'd like the same set up I've created, drop m a line
Engine now has its exhausts manifolds, the water pipe that feeds the A/C unit, the bell housing and gearbox bolted on. Having eyed up the engine bay without anything installed,(header tank etc..), I'm guessing that I'll be able to get everything in by going over the front. If you have any experience suggesting this won't work, please let me know!
Just got one last job prior to the engine going in, and that's connecting the brakes and clutch pipe to the union in the bottom of the foot well. I had to bought a new one because one of the brake unions was so badly corroded in, part of its sheer'd off.
One thing Dom mentioned, was that the gearbox gets very hot and could probably do with a cooler fitted (most people have a special gear stick fitted that doesn't conduct heat very well).
Looking at the proximity of the exhaust the engine/gearbox, I'm not surprised at all. There is only about 7mm between the cat and the block and the exhaust runs alongside the gearbox.
As can be seen in the photos, I've wrapped the cats and am now considering what shielding might be a good idea for the gearbox. Having been contacted by the second owner of this car and been told the gearsick got very hot, I'm assuming the gearstick is not the upgraded one. The obvious thing would be to change the gearstick, but I think as an additional improvement, the gearbox should be given its own shielding so that it is not heated up beyond its normal operating temps. This could well be the case with the wrap on the mainifold causing the heat to be dissipated further downstream of the exhaust.
Just got one last job prior to the engine going in, and that's connecting the brakes and clutch pipe to the union in the bottom of the foot well. I had to bought a new one because one of the brake unions was so badly corroded in, part of its sheer'd off.
One thing Dom mentioned, was that the gearbox gets very hot and could probably do with a cooler fitted (most people have a special gear stick fitted that doesn't conduct heat very well).
Looking at the proximity of the exhaust the engine/gearbox, I'm not surprised at all. There is only about 7mm between the cat and the block and the exhaust runs alongside the gearbox.
As can be seen in the photos, I've wrapped the cats and am now considering what shielding might be a good idea for the gearbox. Having been contacted by the second owner of this car and been told the gearsick got very hot, I'm assuming the gearstick is not the upgraded one. The obvious thing would be to change the gearstick, but I think as an additional improvement, the gearbox should be given its own shielding so that it is not heated up beyond its normal operating temps. This could well be the case with the wrap on the mainifold causing the heat to be dissipated further downstream of the exhaust.
Edited by MPETT on Monday 29th October 14:26
The engine is in!!!!! Whoop whoop whoop!
Over the top, a small tilt sideways and its on it's mounts Didn't even need to put the car on axle stands! Just had to drill a new hole for the adjustable arm on the crane to give me an extra 8cm to get the engine onto the engine mounts without the crane clashing with the front of the body structure/glass fibre.
More pics to come.
Over the top, a small tilt sideways and its on it's mounts Didn't even need to put the car on axle stands! Just had to drill a new hole for the adjustable arm on the crane to give me an extra 8cm to get the engine onto the engine mounts without the crane clashing with the front of the body structure/glass fibre.
More pics to come.
A few updates on prgress:
Engine in, gearbox mounted, prop connected, cooling pipes in, oil pipes in, steering rack connected to bottom shaft of steering column, chassis wxoiled (on the top of the outriggers, underside will be done when the car is on a 2 post lift), fuel tank in and brake pipes connected.
I've taken the first week in jan off so that I can make some good progress, hopefully get to a stage where the engine can be turned over for the first time.
Engine in, gearbox mounted, prop connected, cooling pipes in, oil pipes in, steering rack connected to bottom shaft of steering column, chassis wxoiled (on the top of the outriggers, underside will be done when the car is on a 2 post lift), fuel tank in and brake pipes connected.
I've taken the first week in jan off so that I can make some good progress, hopefully get to a stage where the engine can be turned over for the first time.
if you really want to go to town on it later on, you can rub down and undershield inside the wheel arches, inner wings, and then spray gloss black, makes washing down much easier and all the crude falls off better.
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