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MPETT
Original Poster
686 posts
75 months
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The rolling chassis is almost there! Wishbones all fitted, CV joints cleaned and repacked with grease, diff and driveshafts fitted, new brake lines fitted (I worked with automec (jsmith@automec.co.uk) measured my brake lines, test fitted and documented with pics, so they can now offer a kit for the T-series chassis cars). I just need to fit a new fuel pump and filter, skim the discs, buy new pads and buy/fit new front upper shocker bolts. I figure most of this can be done at a later date, so that I can get the body on and start refitting the wiring.   Some of you may have read my other thread on supension? http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0... front suspension facts and experiment Can anyone else comment on their suspension set up on their pre march 2001 Tuscans or on their pre 2001 Cerberas and what they have done to make the car feel more planted/less nervous? I've fitted 4mm spacers as a halfway house solution to the bump steer issue. This appears to reduce bump steer except in the extremes of nearing max bump and max droop. However, ultimatley I think I will upgrade to the later wishbones, upright ball join position and steering rack/track rods. I have a few question for the TVR PH community.... Does anyone have any advice re where I can find a new fuel pump and filter? Does anyone have photos of the fuel line routing? I seem to have forgotten to photgrah them when I dissassembled my car! I was also thinking about the engine rebuild. I figured I could reassemble everything, fit the body, repair and repaint the body and leave the engine and gearbox out. I could then deliver the engine and gearbox to Power and when rebuilt I could deliver the rebuilt car for them to fit the engine into it. Does anyone think this might cause any issues? All advice, words of caution and encouragement always welcomed! Cheers, Martin
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Walford
834 posts
35 months
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Bump steer mainly becomes a problem as you turn into big fast corners, the weight transfers over and one side is compressed
(compression turns the car in more)
if you loose confidence, and lift off, it come back
then it become like the car is fighting you
how much bump steer do you have with 15 deg of lock on ????
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JnP
310 posts
26 months
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Incredible what you have done so far, I can only dream of doing half what you did. Can't answer your question, but I can wish you good luck!
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MPETT
Original Poster
686 posts
75 months
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I've checked the bump steer at straight ahead and a different degrees of lock and it's OK if the suspension doesn't compress too much. The middle 70% of travel gives little bump oversteer/understeer, it's when you go below ride height (droop) and hit large bumps/ corner very hard that the wheel will not be pointing where they should relative to the steering lock you've applied. Solution 1 is to make the suspension very stiff, thereby minimising travel. Solution 2 is to upgrade the suspension, rack and upright to the later specs to get the better geometry.
I've added 4mm to my steering rack height which I think is the best compromise for the standard early geo, but I'm not that happy.
So, if anyone knows where I can get hold of the later upper wishbones, uprights and a later steering rack, please let me know.
If you want a more detailed description of the bump steer work I've been doing, check out my other thread.
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gordonsalive
315 posts
56 months
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Just googled for your fuel pump, RG do them and there are also some advertised on fleabay. Good Luck with the project!
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MPETT
Original Poster
686 posts
75 months
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Can anyone post some pics or describe the fuel pipe and return pipes layout (from where to where) on the Tuscan please. I can't find any pictures I took upon disassembly that make me 100% sure what I should do.
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RedSpike66
1,969 posts
81 months
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MPETT said: So, if anyone knows where I can get hold of the later upper wishbones, uprights and a later steering rack, please let me know. Ring Craig at TrackVRoad tomorrow (not in Mondays) as he seems to bea able to find all sorts of hard to source stuff.
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MPETT
Original Poster
686 posts
75 months
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Walford
834 posts
35 months
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Have you noticed that you can pump wax oil into the front and rear of the chassis 
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MPETT
Original Poster
686 posts
75 months
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TOUCHDOWN!!! Finally the chassis is done! All bolts torques up, copper slip applied. Fuel lines in place and heat mat cleaned (as best I could). I still need the exhaust heat reflecting pannel. Does anyone know where I can buy some/have any advice?   She is now ready for the body to go back on and be sent to plasticman for her repair. Gonna have to round up the lads to lift the body back on. I had an S body shell for a while and that was a lot lighter than this one! (Apparently they used less layers in the S shells to make them lighter).
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Basil Brush
3,858 posts
132 months
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Walford
834 posts
35 months
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MPETT
Original Poster
686 posts
75 months
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MPETT
Original Poster
686 posts
75 months
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Photo taken just before the body was slotted back on. Used an engine crane on the front and 2 strong blokes to hold up the rear and 2 to roll the chassis underneath. Now its off to Plasticman! 
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Simon says
9,286 posts
90 months
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MPETT said: Photo taken just before the body was slotted back on. Used an engine crane on the front and 2 strong blokes to hold up the rear and 2 to roll the chassis underneath. Now its off to Plasticman! Nice work 
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ShiDevil
1,202 posts
43 months
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This is amazing to follow 
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Leogasp
61 posts
49 months
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Very good topic and very good work!!
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threespires
957 posts
80 months
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I've really enjoyed reading this.
Terrific work.
Can't wait for more.
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MPETT
Original Poster
686 posts
75 months
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Come to a bit of a halt with lack of funds. Need to sell my e46 m3 convertible, but not having much luck. Have dropped it from 10k to 9,250 today but fear their value has dropped even more than that. Any ideas? http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3831050.htm
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MrChips
1,691 posts
79 months
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MPETT said: Come to a bit of a halt with lack of funds. Need to sell my e46 m3 convertible, but not having much luck. Have dropped it from 10k to 9,250 today but fear their value has dropped even more than that. Any ideas? http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3831050.htmNot had a look at prices but in terms of the ad, the only 2 things I can think that might help are: - list the optional extras out line by line instead of in a paragraph. This can help people compare the car to others and also helps emphasise the spec. - To the general public, the cat D comments may come across as "trust me it's fine". Generally I think those who buy a catD will do so if there is full proof of what the damage was and where/how it was repaired. Some people would rather ignore your qualifications/ability and have the "reassurance" of an independant assessment. You do mention this in the ad so I would stick only with that, list out what was repaired and what proof you have? Other than that, car looks great!
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