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WazzaL

892 posts

79 months

[news] 
Wednesday 7th December 2011 quote quote all
Could be interested in getting the conversion done as well. So if you wouldn't mind keeping me informed as to how much it'd cost to get it done, I'd be grateful.


Warren

MrChips

Original Poster:

1,724 posts

80 months

[news] 
Friday 30th December 2011 quote quote all
Not had much time over Xmas but made a start on the bonnet yesterday. I made some tweaks to the hinges, most notably bending the longer plates to fit closer to the bonnet.

So.. measure twice, cut once etc etc.





Then file back some of the rear of the bonnet to get a close fit for the hinge.


Next came the fibreglassing, taking off the paint to ensure a decent bond, and then 3 layers of various size.




It wouldn't be the same if I cleared up so this was pretty much how I left things yesterday.


To be honest, i'm not 100% sure it's necessary to reinforce the fibreglass as it'd probably be just as easy to mock up a spreader plate to go on the back of the bonnet to spread any load.
The back of the bonnet is still pretty bumpy so I'll be using some sikaflex to help ensure a decent contact between the hinge plate and the bonnet.

One thing i'm also going to look at once i've got it all mocked up, is adding a thin bar between the two hinge plates on the back of the bonnet. Although the bonnets are pretty strong, i'd feel slightly safer knowing the bar was taking any minor twisting strain if I ever took the whole bonnet off and put back on.

Still have loads of stuff to do before we send the car back to str8six to fit the engine, so it'll probably be March before we're back on the road driving

Robertjp

2,272 posts

95 months

[news] 
Friday 6th January 2012 quote quote all
Looking good Dave, thanks for these - i have got mine through in the post thanks.

What did you use to remove the paint from the rear of the bonnet?

I have a fibreglass repair kit at the back of the garage which i was going to use for the reinforcement - not sure it will be enough looking at what you have done - which is quite extensive!


tvrbod

26 posts

51 months

[news] 
Friday 6th January 2012 quote quote all
Hi is there any sets of hinges left would be interested in a set thanks Steve

nawarne

1,689 posts

130 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2012 quote quote all
Thread resurrection!!

I now have a set of hinges from Dave (MrChips) - look very good too!

But any more piccies, hints, tips etc by way of an update.
Nick
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MrChips

Original Poster:

1,724 posts

80 months

[news] 
Tuesday 31st January 2012 quote quote all
^^ Rob - I ended up using a sanding flap disc on the angle grinder to take the majority of the paint off, and then finished it as far as possible by hand. I don't think it's critical to get all of it off as you'd end up taking loads of fibreglass as you go, so it's just making extra work for yourself!

It's been a bit of a pain working on the car as it's not in my garage, but at the inlaws so I can't just nip out and do bits here and there, but thanks for a couple of spare hands from some local PHers, I have made some progress this past weekend. Apologies if some of the following sounds pretty simple/basic, but it's probably worth writing anyway.

It's essential to get to the stage that the hinge sits easily on the back of the bonnet, without introducing any flex or tension when static. This meant taking the bonnet on and off a couple of times, sanding/filing bits off, then refitting until it looks good.

The main priority on Saturday was to put the hinges on, and get them aligned to the car. There's no one way of doing this but I did it basically as follows:

- Get car sitting perfectly straight in garage (not essential but helps when visually sense checking)
- Mark the top of the front wheel arch with masking tape, and use a thin felt tip to show where the exact midline of the wheel is. Do for both front wheels.
- Mount hinges, and visually align with the car.
- Use wire/measuring tape to get the top corner of the long hinge to be an identical distance from the top of the wheel arch. Then tighten hinge to the car.
- Now place wire/measuring tape between the two longer hinge sections. When moving the hinges forward and backwards (as if the bonnet was being lifted), does the distance between the hinge tips change? If so, then undo the hinge from the car, re-align and try again.
Once both hinges are the same distance from the top of the wheel arch, and the distance between them doesn't change when moving, then that's as aligned as their going to get without making a proper jig (would be a better option but it's overkill really)

This is where things got interesting as something went screwy. We put some some foam pads on the hinge.


We then put the bonnet on, and clamped the hinges in place. Took the bonnet off, marked up where the hinges were, and then drilled the holes through before unclamping.


So.. put the bonnet back on and test fit. 2 of the 3 holes in the bonnet don't quite line up with one the hinges!! rolleyes I suspect that we didn't tighten the clamps that much as we didn't want to do any damage, but this let the hinge twist slightly.
It's an easy fix to modify the hinge, but annoying nonetheless!

If I was to do this bit again, i'd just drill the one hole (furthest from the front of the car), then re-fit and check/measure again before doing the other hole, and then do again with the final one. The hinges are wide enough that the holes in the bonnet can be slightly widened without issue, but it's nicer to get it spot on first go!!

Whilst we had the hinges on for a bit, we measured how much we'd need to take out from the middle gap where the coolant pipe goes, and it's probably about 2 inches that needs to be chopped out in order to let the bonnet move freely.

So jobs left now are to refit the hinges, and mount the gas struts, and move onto sorting the heater pipes, and a few other niggles before it goes back to have the new engine put in (barclaycard is going to have a field day with me!)

In between the bonnet stuff, we did manage to find time to play with the steam cleaner so it's not all work and no play biggrin


Final bit of advice, get another pair of hands to help. There's a few times when it's just tempting to do stuff whilst the bonnet is on the car, but having the freedom to take the bonnet of and on whilst getting it aligned is so much better.

A few people have asked on here if I would do the conversion for them. From having gone through it so far, it's one of those jobs where it's all about manpower and so the price that places like S&D are charging don't seem so bad. I'm not a business so I wouldn't really want to work on other peoples cars alone as such however if you're in the South East then there's a good chance I could lend a hand to fellow owner for beer tokens etc, so if you're in the South East then feel free to pm me!

Cheers
Dave
smile

Edited by MrChips on Tuesday 31st January 21:56

nawarne

1,689 posts

130 months

[news] 
Wednesday 1st February 2012 quote quote all
Excellent update Dave!
Well done!
Nick

nawarne

1,689 posts

130 months

[news] 
Tuesday 14th February 2012 quote quote all
Hi Dave,
Any progress? Went to my local TVRCC meet on Sunday.

One of the guys had the hinge conversion done by S&D. It did look very good.

S&D had a stainless/polished ali reinforcing plate in way of the second bolt opening (the one just in front of the start of the recess for the service bonnet) which looked good. The gas struts that were used had a brushed alloy finish on the cylinder, which also improved the aesthetics.

Best, Nick

nawarne

1,689 posts

130 months

[news] 
Sunday 26th February 2012 quote quote all
I wish I'd taken 'photos!!

OK, made a start on putting on the hinges yesterday, by the evening, my mate and I had got to the point where we'd laminated the underside of the bonnet...and ready to drill for the moveable part of the hinge.

What we did to ensure the (fixed) hinge section with the pin was completely aligned was to:
1) remove main bonnet.
2) remove service bonnet.
3) place fixed 'plate' of hinge on the stud at the front of the car that would normally take the front lug of the main bonnet. We placed the nut and washer on - just nipped-up so we could move them fore & aft.
4) we then attached masking tape on the main bonnet around the hinge 'area'
5) on the mask tape we scribed where we'd need to remove fibreglass to allow the main bonnet to 'sit' in exactly the same place as it had always done. Thus the studs at the top of the wheelarch and the 'spring-catches' above the scuttle panel would engage.

6) many, many removals of bonnet and gingerly dremmel cutting and sanding of grp, had the bonnet sitting squarely in the original position with the wheelarch studs protruding through and the spring catches engaging properly.
7) we then re-mounted the service bonnet. This indicated that the fixed hing plates should both move toward the c/line as much as possible to clear the grp 'return' on the service bonnet. In the end we had to cut a semicircle out of the return to allow the service bonnet to 'sit' normally.
8) we then measured the distance between the bushings(brass) on the fixed hinge.
9) we then mounted the fixed hinge plates on a piece of timber (I had some 2.5"x1" lying around) ensuring the hinge plate was square (to the timber)and the distance apart was exactly the measurement noted. This was effectively a template - with the timber representing the front of the engine bay/car.
10) We offered this assembly (timber and hinge plate) to the upturned main bonnet and placed the moveable hinge section on the pins of the fixed plate. The complete hinge assembly was lying in the 1/2 round cut-outs made previously. The beauty of this set-up was that we knew the hinges/pins were absolutely in-line,and would therefore ensure the bonnet would lift straight and without any twist on the hinges.
11) So - the underside of the main bonnet was 'scuffed-up' and we laminated a mush of glass and resin to make up any gaps where the hinges were sitting proud of the grp, and the 2 off layers of 600gm/sq.m. woven mat well rollered in .

12) This morning, with the laminating cured-ish, we placed the timber & hinges back onto the underside of the bonnet. We had to improve some of the moving hinge plate 'contact' to allow most of the steel to lie on the grp (lump hammer and vice adjustment). In the centre of the moving hinge slots, I drilled 3mm pilot holes then from the 'face' side of the bonnet I drilled an 8mm hole to take the 3 off M8 shoulder pan head socket bolts.

13) We nipped up the pan head bolts with M8 nylocks and washers (all S.steel) and offered the main bonnet to the car.

14) Result!! everything lined up!! We bolted the fixed hinge plate with penny washers and M8 nylocks. We replaced the service bonnet - some spring caused by the pan head bolts 'just' touching the underside of the service bonnet. Went for a trial lift- upshot was we had to trim off some of the 'return' on the leading edge of the main bonnet and we had to pull the pepperpot grill in a tad to allow a decent opening.

15) What a difference it makes! My mate helped me to put on some new reflective foil over the 'hot' exchanger cover and down below it toward the engine mounts - and so easy to do now....Looks pretty!!

PHEW! Nick



Edited by nawarne on Sunday 26th February 19:45


Edited by nawarne on Monday 27th February 13:18

MrChips

Original Poster:

1,724 posts

80 months

[news] 
Sunday 26th February 2012 quote quote all
Top work Nick!

If i'd had a suitable block of wood, then using that as a template is probably easier than what I tried! Take note people!

Have you mounted the struts yet? If so, are you planning on doing it so the service bonnet stays connected to the main bonnet, or leave a gap like this?....


Update from me... just got in after a whole weekend on the car! Bonnet is now aligned and hinged, but i've taken it all apart again to paint the back of the bonnet.
All day today was spent cleaning the chassis. Lots of SurfexHD was used, and steam cleaned, followed by jet wash, followed by some scrubbing! Not looking so bad now.



Oh and Nick... guess what you're going to have to do next....


hehe

MrChips

Original Poster:

1,724 posts

80 months

[news] 
Sunday 26th February 2012 quote quote all
Forgot to add Nick, what heat shield stuff did you use for the heat exchanger? Any pics?

nawarne

1,689 posts

130 months

[news] 
Monday 27th February 2012 quote quote all
Dave - the dry sump tank and water tank look brighter than a bright thing!!

My mate brought the heat foil around - something he'd bought on ebay. It is just a self adhesive foil, but it has some sort of glass strand through it. I was really impressed with the result. The stuff over my a/c 'cold-box' had really deteriorated, and looked scruffy. This stuff has transformed the appearance.

I'm going to leave my service bonnet as per your picture. I haven't done anything about gas struts - yet.
Had a debate with my pal as to wether a simple bonnet stay might be better in terms of access to the engine/underbonnet area? BTW, I found a strut place where they have the body in stainless and you can adjust the pressure (obviously supplied at a max. value and you bleed out to the requirement).

Best, Nick

Macey

1,128 posts

63 months

[news] 
Monday 27th February 2012 quote quote all
MrChips,

Will you please STOP with this cleaning and polishing malarky. I can see that I will be spending my time doing nothing but cleaning the car and NOT driving it.

biglaugh

It's looking good though.

MPETT

689 posts

76 months

[news] 
Saturday 3rd March 2012 quote quote all
WOW, how did you get those tanks that bright? I have mine out at the moment and would love to get them looking that good! Spill the beans wink

Cheers,
Martin

OlderandWiser

7 posts

21 months

[news] 
Saturday 3rd March 2012 quote quote all
A polishing mop and plenty of elbow grease - is the usual way rolleyes (and be prepared to get very dirty!!!

Mr Chips - great meeting you, thanks for the hinges. Look forward to catching up when we've both got cars on the road!

Cheeers John

MrChips

Original Poster:

1,724 posts

80 months

[news] 
Saturday 3rd March 2012 quote quote all
Looking forward to seeing your car on the road soon John!

Martin...I ended up using 800 then 1500 wet and dry paper, then a polishing wheel on the bench grinder, followed by autosol with a cloth. They don't look perfect but good enough for me!

I'm hoping the weather holds out tomorrow as I'm planning to finish the odd jobs left before the car goes back to str8six.

For the heat shield I ended up buying some lavamat: http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/productdetail/he...

Seems good quality and easy to apply. Not 100% convinced it won't look chavvy but I'll see how it goes.
Only thing I haven't even looked at is the rubbish aircon/potential heater pipe being loose. I want to get everything else done before I even attempt anything involving the interior/dashboard.

Will take some more pics tomorrow!

Robertjp

2,272 posts

95 months

[news] 
Saturday 3rd March 2012 quote quote all
looking fantastic....i am dreading the onset of engine bay cleaning once i have hinged mine !!!

MrChips

Original Poster:

1,724 posts

80 months

[news] 
Wednesday 7th March 2012 quote quote all
Another few pics to wind up a certain Macey hehe










Macey

1,128 posts

63 months

[news] 
Thursday 8th March 2012 quote quote all
MrChips said:
Another few pics to wind up a certain Macey hehe
Arrrrrrrrgh mad

Look forward to seeing it completed, my cleaning and modding work starts next month so we will need to meet up to swap hinges for anti-squeal tape (plus payment) and silicone spray if you need that as well.

MrChips

Original Poster:

1,724 posts

80 months

[news] 
Monday 19th March 2012 quote quote all
Ta da!!!!! http://youtu.be/zGJzRlXOziU

Actually, i'm not quite happy with it yet rolleyes but it's almost there.

The front of the bonnet is sitting higher than i'd like, meaning that the service bonnet has to be pushed down to get it into place. Essentially there's no clearance between the back of the service bonnet and the front of the main bonnet. Is that normal?? I've removed the 2 rubber pads from the back of the service bonnet so it's a bit better, but I can't remember if they used to be touching?
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