Oil Advice and Recommendations Here

[opieoilman]

dodgyviper said:

Make TVR Model Chimaera Year 1999 Engine size and type 4.0 Any significant modifications no Brand and viscosity currently used Valvoline 10W 40 Full synthetic Mileage 55,000

The grade of oil you are using is fine, if you were doing track days or drive it hard then you may wish to move to a 10w-50/15w-50 to provide greater protection when hot.

The Valvoline is not a true synthetic but a hydrocracked mineral oil, it will be fine with changes every 3k or so, again if you wanted to imporve then I would consider an ester/pao based oil like Motul, Silkolene and Redline.

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

wizzpig said:

widjit said: opieoilman said: s2art said: One thing that has not been emphasised here is the importance of the smaller number eg 5w 50, with respect to the speed six. As we all suspect a top end lubrication issue when first starting the engine the smaller the number the better. This is particularly important in winter. Are there any 5w 50's or better still 0w 50 oils out there any more? I would have thought they would be far beter than a 10w 50. Yes this is important to a point, 5w is better than 10w etc for cold start. However the numbers are extreme for UK Climate. To meet the 0w test an oil has to pour at -35 degC and for 5w -30 degC! These temps are brass monkey stuff, 10w is fine for UK and most European climates. Cheers Guy This is misleading at best! All oils will pour at any temperature, it is the speed of pour which is important Not strictly true. Oil will freeze as I'm sure opieoilman will tell you.

You open up another can of worms with this one. Mineral based oils will become so viscous they dont pour, I believe the Germans had this problem during the war.

Synthetics will pour down to some silly temps, but even those will become so viscous they dont pour, this is why we have pour points as a measurement of oil viscosity and quality.

Cheers

Guy.

[Northern_Paul]

Dr Oil

You where good enough to suggest what oil I should use for my Griff a couple of months ago, can you suggest a suitable oil for the following

Make BMW
Model 635CSi Highline Motorsport
Year 1989
Engine size and type M30 3.5 litre straight-6 SOHC
Any significant modifications none
Brand and viscosity currently used (if known) unknown, just purchased

Mileage is 111,000 miles.

Thanks again


Paul.

[opieoilman]

Northern_Paul said:

Dr Oil You where good enough to suggest what oil I should use for my Griff a couple of months ago, can you suggest a suitable oil for the following Make BMW Model 635CSi Highline Motorsport Year 1989 Engine size and type M30 3.5 litre straight-6 SOHC Any significant modifications none Brand and viscosity currently used (if known) unknown, just purchased Mileage is 111,000 miles. Thanks again Paul.

Paul,

You have some options.

You can go down the quality route and use a synthetic oil like the Silkolene Pro S 10w-50 and change every 9-10k.

Or you can use a hydrocracked mineral oil like the Motul 6100 15w-50 but it will need to be changed every 6k or so and will not give as good cold start protection.

Finally you can use a good old mineral multigrade, like the Silkolene Superma 15w-50.


These are in order of quality.

Tech data here www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm

Any questions, drop me a mail.

Cheers

Guy.

[tvrski]

Hi Guy,

I'm interested in your opinion about oil for my TVR:

'70 Tuscan V6 3 liter Essex, Ford gearbox with overdrive and Salisbury diff (LSD?)

Cheers,

Oscar

[ads]

Hi Guy,
I have got a 1999 4.0ltr Chimaera with 15,000 miles from new. I do around 3000 miles per year and mainly in the summer, I belive it has only ever had Mobil 1 0w-40 in it. (at least since 7k miles)

oil pressure is around 15 PSI when fully warm and about 40-45 when cold.
It seems to lose about 0.5 ltr every 2000 miles.

Should I change to a 5w-40 or 10w-40 as yopu have recommended previously?

I emailed your company about 6 months ago and was recommended to stick with 0w-40 by someone there, so I am a litte confused. Thanks for your help.

Ads

P.S I also have a Mondeo 2.0 TDCI, do you know anything about the Ford brand oils?

[opieoilman]

tvrski said:

Hi Guy, I'm interested in your opinion about oil for my TVR: '70 Tuscan V6 3 liter Essex, Ford gearbox with overdrive and Salisbury diff (LSD?) Cheers, Oscar

Oscar,

For you TVR I would suggest the Silkolene Pro R 15w-50, its a ester/pao synthetic but is also very good with the older engine.

Tech data here www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm

Cheers

Guy.

[opieoilman]

ads said:

Hi Guy, I have got a 1999 4.0ltr Chimaera with 15,000 miles from new. I do around 3000 miles per year and mainly in the summer, I belive it has only ever had Mobil 1 0w-40 in it. (at least since 7k miles) oil pressure is around 15 PSI when fully warm and about 40-45 when cold. It seems to lose about 0.5 ltr every 2000 miles. Should I change to a 5w-40 or 10w-40 as yopu have recommended previously? I emailed your company about 6 months ago and was recommended to stick with 0w-40 by someone there, so I am a litte confused. Thanks for your help. Ads P.S I also have a Mondeo 2.0 TDCI, do you know anything about the Ford brand oils?

Hi,

If the car runs well on the Mobil then sticking with it is fine, due to the anual mileage of the car it will need to changed once a year.

If you track the car you may wish to use a thicker oil to deal with those stresses such as a 10w-50.

0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 are all the same viscosity when hot, so if the car is happy with a 0w (some are not) then its fine.

For the Ford you will need a 5w-30 meeting the relevent Ford spec.

I have plenty to choose from so drop me a mail for some choices.

Cheers

Guy.

[toppers]

Can you let me know what brand and type of oil is best for my Tuscan S

TVR Speed six 4 Litre 400 BHP engine. 2002 engine with 11,000 miles up her

Steady week day user and a blaster at the weekends.

Also whats the best way to flush the old out for the new

Cheers

Toppers

>> Edited by toppers on Thursday 24th November 18:55

>> Edited by toppers on Thursday 24th November 18:55

[opieoilman]

A good quality 0w-40/5w-40 full synthetic for all year round use.

Top of the tree are the ester/pao synthetics from Motul, Silkolene and Redline.

Cheers

Guy.

[ads]

Ok thanks for your help. I will email you nearer the oil change time.

I guess if the Tiv starts sounding a bit tappety then that might be the time to change to 5w-40 etc?

Thanks again
Ads

[opieoilman]

If things get tappy, play around with viscosities and brands, usually find one that keeps things quiet.

Cheers

Guy.

[gerjo]

just for your information: talked it over with Austec and they told me Valvoline MaxLife 10W40 (synthetic blend but actually a true synthetic) is the best you can use for the RV8 because it is especially designed for an older type of engine. They use it all the time and have had no problems with it, incl. cars that do trackdays.

[opieoilman]

I would ask them what Group are the basestocks, III, IV or V?

Basestock categories and descriptions

All oils are comprised of basestocks and additives. Basestocks make up the majority of the finished product and represent between 75-95%.

Not all basestocks are derived from petroleum, in fact the better quality ones are synthetics made in laboratories by chemists specifically designed for the application for which they are intended.

Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows:

Group I

These are derived from petroleum and are the least refined. These are used in a small amount of automotive oils where the applications are not demanding.

Group II

These are derived from petroleum and are mainly used in mineral automotive oils. Their performance is acceptable with regards to wear, thermal stability and oxidation stability but not so good at lower temperatures.

Group III

These are derived from petroleum but are the most refined of the mineral oil basestocks. They are not chemically engineered like synthetics but offer the highest level of performance of all the petroleum basestocks. They are also known as “hydrocracked” or “molecularly modified” basestocks.
They are usually labelled/marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and make up a very high percentage of the oils retailed today.

Group IV

These are polyalphaolefins known as PAO and are chemically manufactured rather than being dug out of the ground. These basestocks have excellent stability in both hot and cold temperatures and give superior protection due to their uniform molecules.

Group V

These special basestocks are also chemically engineered but are not PAO.
The main types used in automotive oils are diesters and polyolesters. Like the group IV basestocks they have uniform molecules and give superior performance and protection over petroleum basestocks. These special stocks are used in all aviation engines due to their stability and durability. Esters are also polar (electro statically attracted to metal surfaces) which has great benefits. They are usually blended with Group IV stocks rather than being used exclusively.

It is common practice for oil companies to blend different basestocks to achieve a certain specification, performance or cost. The blending of group IV and V produces lubricants with the best overall performance which cannot be matched by any of the petroleum basestock groups.

Cheers
Guy

[cerby4.5]

Hi There!

I could really use some advice regarding the best oil to use in the Chim as opinions differ everywhere that you ask and I am keen to find out what will be best for the car!
Make: TVR
Model: Chimaera
Year: 1998
Engine size and type: 4.5 litre V8
Any significant modifications: Not really engine is std apart from a 218 Cam that is due to be fitted this week.
Brand and viscosity currently used: Shell Helix 15/40 (I think?)

Can you e-mail me with details including suggested Brand/Brands, as I will also need to find a stockist of whatever you suggest, if it can be purchased over the Net or by phone and then delivered this would be even better!
Thanks,

Cerby

[opieoilman]

Cerby,

YHM.

Cheers

Guy.

[cerby4.5]

Many thanks!! Cerby

[radzoule]

Dear Opie

I have recently replaced my hydraulic tappets as part of a cam/valve train overhaul. I am running in on 10-40 Magnatec and have now done about 500 miles. I think one of the tappets is causing grief - the engine is quiet as a mouse until it warms up. As it reaches normal operating temperature one of the tappets starts to clack.

I have bought some Silkolene 15-50 from you and and am planning to change the oil this weekend to see if that helps the problem. If this doesn't work, what are your views/experience on hydraulic lifter additives like wynns or stp? General research indicates that some people are very happy with the results. Providing it doesn't compromise the lubrication quality of the oil I would be prepared to try this before pulling the whole lot apart again.

Many thanks

[mongoose]

radzoule said:

Dear Opie.......... If this doesn't work, what are your views/experience on hydraulic lifter additives like wynns or stp? General research indicates that some people are very happy with the results. Many thanks

Sorry to butt in,but i just thought it would be worth mentioning that i've had a very good experience of using a wynnes product called 'hydraulic valve lifter treatment' in my wifes MX5.No amount of oil changes/different grades or flushes worked until i tried this on her noisy tappets.Now theyre silent thanks to this stuff!-can't fault it.I know theres a lot of 'snake oil' type products out there(mostly friction reducers etc),but this can't be one of them imho.

[neilm]

Can u give me so advice about the following

Griff 4.0L - 1992
Current Oil - various.
I live in Thailand where the temperature basically never gets below 20 and is frequently in the mid to high 30's. What do you recommend for these high temperatures.

Neil